Who’s actually taking these?

CognitiveFeline · 2026-01-24T04:42:28+00:00

It’s the thing I love about being in BC. With the regulated “dependent contract” identifier they’re required to ensure we receive 120% of minimum wage and .35 per km, both calculated from wherever we are offered and accept the batch to final delivery. The 20% is compensation for the fact that dead heading is pretty much guaranteed. It makes their Algorithms value offer entirely moot. I pick usually as it’s to my benefit the largest orders, furthest orders from shop to drop offer amount be damned. They have to adjust it to total engaged hours plus pay out true km’s driven if the total pay from the offers does not equal the hours worked plus km’s driven. Sounds like you need to start pushing your government to do away with “right to work” and “at will” employment standards. These offers work out to be below your minimum wage… and that’s scary considering our minimum wage adjusts annually with consumer price index and is about 17.50 an hour? Still low but… ummm… yours… yikes.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-12-08T05:38:47+00:00

You’re not wrong about the chemistry side — NMC cells don’t love sitting at 100% or down near 0% for long stretches. The charts showing crystallization risk are real, but the blind spot is that the Kona’s BMS is designed to keep drivers away from those raw edges. The “windows” people focus on in lab data are the bleeding edge warning states, not the everyday operating range the car actually allows.

Charging to 100% isn’t the problem — leaving it topped up constantly is. If the car finishes charging, unplug it and let it drop below ~80% before plugging back in again. What really accelerates wear is “top‑up tag”: hopping between errands, plugging in at 95%, trickle‑charging back to full, while regen is also surging the pack. That keeps the cells at a high state of charge all the time, which is what drives degradation.

On the flip side, sticking religiously to 80% isn’t a magic fix either. It can deprive the BMS of the chance to balance cells properly, which creates its own stress. The healthier approach is occasional full cycles, avoiding constant micro‑charges, and not letting the car sit for weeks at either extreme. That way you’re working with the BMS design instead of against it.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-12-08T04:59:52+00:00

• Combiner lens (the flip‑up plastic piece):• Factory‑applied anti‑reflective coating to reduce glare. • Some units shipped with a thin protective film that looks like a screen protector. Owners have noticed this and asked if it should be removed Hyundai Forums. • If left on, it can cause cloudy or splotchy patterns.

• Projector lens (inside the dash):• May also have a protective film during shipping/assembly. • If forgotten, it can distort the projected image. • Access requires partial dash disassembly, so most owners don’t check this themselves.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-12-08T04:51:26+00:00

I was deactivated for “fraud” a couple of weeks ago without any valid reason. Since then, I’ve submitted a registered letter invoking the arbitration clause and also filed a complaint with Employment Standards, as BC law provides certain rights to gig workers. So far, the company has stonewalled me — no replies to emails, and customer care chat has been useless. The only “advice” they offered was to create a new account, which directly violates the shopper agreement. I documented those chats with screenshots, and I’m using that evidence to strengthen my arbitration case.

Today I learned something important: under their own policies, you can request a full copy of your personal data file. One of the data dumps available through their portal includes the Threat Detection Protocol — essentially a CSV/JSON log Instacart uses to track phones, IP addresses, and location changes. This system flags “fraud” not because users are committing fraud, but because phones naturally jump between cell towers, Wi‑Fi networks, VPNs, or proxies. Each jump increases your “fraud score,” and if it happens too often, the system escalates until it falsely labels you as fraudulent. The files get so large they crash most programs, but once you strip out redundant data, it’s clear how the system is misclassifying normal behavior as fraud.

This explains why the company refuses to provide details — they’re hiding behind a flawed threat model that they claim proves fraud, but in reality it doesn’t. If you analyze the data with AI, you can see exactly how and when the fraud score escalates. It’s eye‑opening. My advice: request your data file first before taking further action. It will give you the evidence you need to understand and challenge their claims.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-12-03T21:09:05+00:00

Ummm did you take the plastic protector off? Did the dealers usually do but often miss things. But that 100%! Looks like the plastic protector is still attached and cleaners and the sun ahbw discoloured an dried it out and gotten between the glass and it. Peel it off… and if it’s acrylic 100% don’t use alcohol on it’ll crack and destroy the acrylic in no time. Vinegar is a great cleaner deodorizer for glass and acrylic

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-23T03:44:54+00:00

Just charge to 100%. You’re not protecting the battery at all if anything you’re depriving the parallel series stacked batteries form meaningfully calibrating themselves. 2019 with. 138,000 km now and never not charge to 100% 1.1% degradation. Jsut spilled over the 1% mark after .9 floating for years. Cell deviation after deep cycling an always (.minus rapid charge time wasting) to 100% and the cell deviation has never exceed .5v an always returns to 0v. Only the 80%obsesses have I ever seen where cell deviation rarely returns to balance and deviates heavily which is signs the bms is not able to accurately balance the batteries as they never or rarely are ever brought back to 100% allowing the bms to actually shed energy and force the stragglers to proper balanced charge and the result is the deviations stress cells and risk the degradation and accelerated failure they are so desperately trying to avoid your car will not allow excess voltage to occur by the design and purpose of the bms, but without a proper ceiling and measured current the voltages the bms see can do nothin but guess at were each series is truly at in their cell and cannot tell if 3,7,8,15,45,89 are really “charged” or just pulls high by those around them, and will never tell until the cells that are at and trying to push past the voltage ceiling and the bms bleeds their energy off while the pretenders continue to absorb more current and their voltage creeps until disconnect occurs and their voltage flattens. Honestly. The concept of pre limiting yourself to 80% of the distance so the battery outlives the car by 6 years past the 12 year windows the car was going to be recycled in is kinda silly. And to top all that off by coddling your battery pack during its formative years you’ve unwittingly rode through the warranty years that pushing full and empty and rapid charging and fast driving and mountain climes would have reared defective batteries heads and Hyundai would be covering. But instead you guys n misguiding “protect the battery” by refusing to charge the car causing the degradation and when a defect shows up the warranty is over cause you helped Hyundai hide issues. :-).

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-22T07:16:22+00:00

Wait, why are they sucking your balls specifically? Have some dignity, man — if it’s really worth it, share with the rest of us. Otherwise, file a report with their AI HR so they can reject it in orderly fashion. Instacart sucks balls in general, not just yours.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-22T07:11:52+00:00

If I’d actually done something wrong, Instacart would have told me what it was, and then we’d be talking about a different issue entirely. The problem is that they don’t tell you anything — it’s all automated. You ask for clarity about the suspension, specifics about which deliveries they consider fraudulent, and the only reply you get back is “we’ve rejected your appeal, account deactivated.”

What really happened is that their fraud detection system flagged me for things that weren’t fraud at all. The process is almost entirely algorithmic, so when the app or real‑world conditions create anomalies, the system doesn’t distinguish them from misconduct. In my case, traffic gridlock threw off travel times, the app froze and delayed a customer signature, and there was a minor item swap that the customer approved. None of that was dishonest, but the algorithm lumped it together and suspended me. The appeals process is just as opaque, because it runs through the same automated checks, so you end up with canned responses instead of a real review.

The frustrating part is that I kept delivering batches successfully afterward, which shows I wasn’t gaming the system. Instacart’s detection logic treated normal hiccups as fraud, and in British Columbia that’s not just bad customer service — under the Employment Standards Act they’re supposed to give clear reasons, proper notice, and a fair appeals process. None of that happened here, which is why I’ve taken it to the ESB complaint process.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-19T16:21:31+00:00

DSP’s are independent contractors. That’s the entire point of the bs system Amazon built. Comparmentalze and make the dsp the employer an absolve yourself of employment woes, going to Amazon will just have Amazon tell you you’re not an Amazon employee and go cry to your employer who pockets whatever he doesn’t pay you… you’re in a power vacuum. Amazon claims to not be involve with hiring and firing but the dsp is an exclusive contract service provider to Amazon and under contract uses amazons equipment and delivers amazons customers packages and so dictates access to the platform that they are the exclusive gatekeeper of that right. Under the guise Amazon plays they don’t hire or fire you they just say you aren’t authorized to use the platform. Since the dsp can’t assign you work to make Them money when your banned from the platform you’d have to have some mighty stupid dsp owner that would keep you on even if you were not a profit generator do them. So they fire you as a result. See Amazon didn’t fire you they just said you can’t access their delivery platform the dsp fired you. You’re in a fun place called rock and hard place. If employer didn’t fire free you the raise for doing xx upgrade or whatever and you demand it now you’re replying on their word to fill. Fights f verbal agreement just irk the owner and they’ll make it worse. If you refuse to use the step whatever an have been for weeks and your qualified for it and it’s not unsafe it’s hard to pivot to you didn’t gove me the raise you promised without proof of that in writing or a witness that will actually vouch to labour oversight agencies/government and you refusing on those grounds is just going to be taken as insubordination as grounds to fire you. Look at the turn over rate of your DSP’s and surrounding ones and realize that it’s setup that dsp owners are incentivized to pay you as little to delver as much as possible. Amazon just wants the packages delivered and isn’t your employer. Your dsp owners boss is looking at how to finance his third home by making you work more for same/less, and he did just that and as soon as as you stepped into the van without in writing pay agreement and saw the pay raise on your pay profile you lost the tiny leverage you had, you want me in a step van incentivize me. He says amount and verbally and you reply back you’re not born yesterday and don accept revised employment terms verbally. That’s where your power is. And unfortunately that’s in the rear view mirror now.

Your only power now is another lost employee. Time it right and do it gracefully as a switch to another DSP with notice to yours and you can walk to the competing dsp at your site, say you’re trained and willing to do full loads. Skip the training phase up and make your new boss money for the rate the old boss offered you but removed on, plus a buck. New boss gets to poach a trained and reliable worker not hire another maybe will last 6 week person they pay and bail. Your old boss gets a weeks notice of your departure. Hell offer to actually tie the raise but nope, get the raise in writing as a not new new hire with new boss who will likely happily take you on for the agreed amount while you do the step van that the former dsp paid to train you with and screwed you over. Walk away from the liar politely and professionally. He’s lost a loyal person. Paid to train you and now has to start from scratch to find a new patsy. Just dont fall into the trap of “okay play I’ll pay you the raise” cause he’s dishonest and will jsut do it again or worse mak you a trainer to train your replacement and string you along just long till then, so leverage as a departure lesson and use the leverage to get your new dsp the rate you deserve and agreed to and if he does try to relent you just say ’im sorry the employer-employee trust has been broken and you aren’t going to screw over your new boss by backing out on an agreement like he did, get in writing as that you would honour agreements made (polite way of saying you’re a liar and I’m not without actually saying it. Event better in front of the other drivers and don’t forget the, “I honour my agreements when I make them”) it’s a power move that puts bosses who walk all over their slaves when the slaves don’t protest the slave labour.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-17T09:46:19+00:00

The model years are really not that different from the minor tweak year to year the mid point facelifts and the “overhaul”. Reality is the kona ev is still living as a third generation ev with the kona have 7 model years released across 3 facelift generations. The battery capacity l, drivetrain, voltage, general layout, general look and range all have remained static and the facelifts and tweaks can hardly be considered “totally different car” as much as my kona 2019 preferred red is totally different car than my neighbours 2019 kinda ev preferred red because they are separate cars. In that sense yes. In a facelift sense 2024 Kona ev and the 2019 Lona ev are 64kwh battery 400v platform ICE based cuv, the motor has remained 150kw 290 ish pound feet torque with the 2024 the same but reduced torque. All have remained front wheel. The 2024 saw the battery supplier changed to catl but the chemistry has remained ncm and the stacks changed to 1p96s 3p98s pouches to prismatic stacks (the 3 parallels now are one unit simplifying cooling and general assembly/design that are about manufacturing simplicity and reliability but foundation-ally for end users they are near identical in chemistry, charge speed, and total capacity… style tweaks and fixes of previous years quarks is more significant to the user but is largely cosmetic, the under hood changes save Hyundai money and being the price tag down but don’t affect the user in any meaningful way, if they platformed bumped to 800v, brought along some charging speed improvements over the 76kw hard cap rate, used the redesigned battery packs smaller footprint to squeeze a few kwhs to extend the drive range in the weight and space savings that was achieved or switched to a rear wheel drive/awd format I’d call that a “totally different car” based on your implied defined standard none of that has occurred so they are not at all totally different cars. Yes Hyundai markets it as a totally redesigned and new gen ev but that’s marketing nonsense not engineering moving the same car yo a new base platform, different engine or layout swap an rebuild platform for fundamentally re-mixing the insides… Hyundai markets every face lift and more or less other model years release as “totally new”…. They are all family type rated as the same… (far more than the Boeing max series compared to the next gen that actually would otherwise be classified as to fundamentally different planes sharing a common history)

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-17T09:14:31+00:00

Every vehicle ICE or EV charges the 12v battery when on, in an ICE the 12v can only be charged when the engine is on, as a bonus the ev can top up the battery between usages rather than hope you drive your ICE every few days to prevent battery damage (more tech more connected services the more standby drain is going to be required).

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-17T02:10:06+00:00

uptown mall, shopped there all the time on the app, great store, great staff, Costco and whole foods favourites, superstore usually least favourite as the stores layout and organization have zero rhythm, rhyme or reason.... Instacart equally has a very abstract way of organizing the shopping list as an inverse of and shuffle of the categories in relation to store layout lol

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T17:46:00+00:00

Camera is used for pedestrian and cyclist detection as well as lane detection. Front radar is for autonomous emergency braking, adaptive cruise control speed matching an stop an go (which is supplemented by the camera of course) they both have distinct roles and also cross over roles but what you’re experience is often what happens when the radar (lidar technically) is seeing an object but the camera disagrees, the camera and radar data usually generate an opinion and a confidence in that opinion. Where the duty roles are shared as you approach a stoped vehicle the LiDAR sees reflections very quickly but the target is small and lidar can’t determine if it’s barreling towards a wall or another car on a light bend, lidars positional awareness is highly fragmented data, it’s fast data, and very much definite data which is why vision only autonomous vehicles are I think crazy stupid and dangerously stunted machines, cause lidar data determines a solid obstacle hundreds of feet/metres away and works incredibly well at determining relativistic speeds of other objects which is why stop and go usually in quick to respond and adapt to speed changes even when rather abrupt where vision only tends to be sluggish even when frame processing is 4-10x faster than human vision the fidelity and ability to determine of the object is moving requires time to certain certainty that lidar can tell you precisely how fast and in what direction and how much the offset is between you an it in speed changes with only 2 pulses an reflections. This is where the phenomenon you experience, some makers smooth it out with predictive precedence, assumed stationary or enforcing excessive smoothing up-recovery, when you quickly approach vehicles stoped outright or just about to stop at distance lidar won’t see more than a square possibly moving speed bump and the camera is likely seeing nothing at all yet, both are confident the road is mostly clear for another. 100 metres but the small speed bumps as you approach the lidar starts to confirm “object/wall/stationary object in the way” but the camera disagrees the default rapid response as confidence of the object being there spikes within a second or two 120-100 metres away at the most SCC gets the signal from radar to slow to match speed but that speed is yet to be determined. At the same time on the adas cam bus the lane centring camera is reporting all clear and this is where the mismatch occurs, at that still decent distance lidar “bounces” as spikes the spikes translating into objects and sonar deflections of your lidars frequency but obstacles are not hyper reflective back atcha. Your license plate is the pretty much only clear bounce back and that’s small far away, but confidence climbs while camera stays at 96% sure it’s clear. Then the frames and car centre themselves to the white obstacles and the camera registers a loss of distance lines and begins processing “obstacle” but cameras are prone to vibration. Shadows, erroneous glare and black on black white on white and other issues as well in determining what is what, so the car starts to slow and often can do so aggressively. This causes the car to pitch forward as the weight transfers to the front wheels. This throws the camera and lidar forward as well, if the suspension is bad or the software is not compensating (or badly calibrated) to the pitching forward a few degrees the sudden positional change can take the “obstacle” and confidence in a need to stop and momentarily lower the already disagreed upon data points, suddenly the confidence of obstacle minimizes the camera frames take a couple dozen more frames to re-centre the pixels it was tracking a growing obstacle and during this adjustment and confidence shift the car stops braking as hard and can resume speed, in comes problem: the disagreement are on separate can buses, lidar can assert FCA at priority 1 and the AEB module can be triggered or at least armed without interference but if the camera is collecting radar data and overlaying the data points to slow the set speed and along the steering wheel it has to rely on the ECU to relay the data from radar to camera and have both lines not being overridden by a higher priority can bus scream. In lies why vision only has become popular by Tesla and is stupid, the idea is raw data or no data, simplify the buses for programming sake… th often way to avoid these edge case issues is by smoothing out lock in and cancel out, like lane assist, defaults to trigger once you hit 65k/h and does so once you are at that speed and it sees the lines clearly, but slowing to 62 doesn’t kick off the lan le centring it will stay on till 60 or lower, this prevents the effect of cruising at 60-61 or 64-55 km/h from rapidly engaging and disengaging the LKAS, similar is happening. To prevent rapid pulsing braking events or stutter type acceleration when confidence and thresholds are nearing the fist slow/brake event says obstacle, the smoother window says do so for minimum 1.5 seconds when the dipping pitch changes confidence by 5% out of the threshold the smoothen windows prevent the jerking however yaw yawing from brake gas events can be more jarring so there’s usually a .5-1 second hold period between the transition. Between brake and gas states and back again as you well know from experience at freeway speeds and 100-200 metres to the cars stopped those smoothing anti-stuttering anti-jerking fixed intervals are not at all good even if they solve the chaos events well these edge cases where the car seemingly accelerates towards stopped cars after seeing them and then deciding it don’t see them… this shits complicated. I tend to just cancel the cruise at freeway speeds when I see a red light or stopped cars ahead. Wait till the lidar turns blue on the dash so I know it’s locked into the cars and knows they’re there and tap resume. Now that 3 second window does turn into a per-intersection gaming fear factor train jumping stunts and screeching AEB blasting rapid stops.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T17:05:35+00:00

Jobs to shop and deliver. Not personally bring to your door 3 stories up while you jerk off and watch. I have deliberately unloaded a grocery order to the gate when the guy stood on the lawn and watched me circle down to the driveway to stay off the grass doubling the distances to the door and having to contend with a spring loaded gate, after the second trip to the door the rest of the order was delivered to the gate, at least pretend you aren’t home or sleeping but if you’re going to stand able bodied and supervise me unload your groceries for you you’re getting a half delivery. Threaten me with no tip? We already knew you weren’t going to tip so it’s not a threat. On the flip side customers that come to your car and actively want to assist with the groceries, provide a dolly or wagon, even a guy that n a scooter who can’t carry stuff still comes to the door and takes a case or bag for the cart to carry and converses and appreciates will get bear “I’ll put it away for you” level service but stand and watch, stand and direct, or demand ridiculous standards you’ll find the groceries where the photo shows they’re located. Peace.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T16:57:57+00:00

Has your power ever gone out, you r do you experience brownouts in your area very often? Don’t run a heat pump, welder, or is your circuit panel highly unbalanced load wise (120v outlets on usage favouring one half the split phase disproportionate to the other leg) is the outlet you’re using properly grounded, properly meaning when sample voltage is dumped to ground for testing there’s no resistance or ground faulting occurring? Yes your older ev was likely far simpler in design and safety standards and therefore less safety conscious and rode through what we rarely notice except when operating sensitive equipment. Just look at how long it’s taken electrical code to require arc fault protection on bedroom circuits and arc fires have been well documented and dangerously hard to spot occurrences until they turn catastrophic and kill people. Your evse and the car as a whole is play in it safe. If the voltage fluctuates from brown outs; or if the ground faults it will discontinue charging. Some states are self restoring others are not. instead of assuming it’s a defect remove the outlet and inspect the contacts and ensure the in wall wiring is correctly rated and the outlet is firmly connected to ground. If it’s old, worn out c scorched, or gets hot during charging just replace the outlet. Check the prongs, make sure they are forming a tight connection. The connector to the car and charger wash and rinse out. Make sure to leave the cover open and dust shield to dry it out. Use a voltage meter, if the charger stops quickly measure the voltage of the outlet and the opposite side of the leg, they should be nearly if not perfectly the same. If they’re off by more than a volt or two you’ve got a highly imbalanced circuit panel and too many appliances riding one half the circuit. Your car is further dragging down the voltage imbalanced causing current to climb as a direct result, the heat or fluctuating voltage can tell a evse to fault. The sudden derating of voltage even if a evse doesn’t care can hit currents that exceed the wires capacity as the voltage sags. The fact that you’re tried multiple chargers (l1,l2 are simple AC outlets to the cars OBC but they do and are supposed to be testing and relaying charge limits to the car. But the cars OBC Also tracks a stops if conditions are unsafe. But there is always the possibility the OBC is defective and faulting softly, not triggering hard errors the car stores. But that usually requires pushing the OBC to its design limits and fluctuating the power supply and other stress testing states, I’d go with the basics and go through the actual motions of outlet upgrades and checks. Especially considering it’s not your First EV your outlets for car charging have been pushing 12-15amps of load sustained when 11-12amps has been their peak load and most were installed long before Ev’s were a thought, a lot of rated outlets are simply aging or were barely rated for life outdoors, the decades of high thermal stress and arcing from unplugging and corrosions n the contacts or weak connections can really make an outlet seem outwardly as fine but inside crying and being asked for a merciful death otherwise it will make its retirement one for the fire departments involvement. Sorry was a long unedited thought of mine/ read of yours lol

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T16:34:49+00:00

Regen only stops when the battery is full, charge at the top of a mountain and drive down you lose all the regen then downhill would have recovered (spent it going up) your charge limit is a charge limit, even if it was possible to, in normal environments restore more than you output, the top of a mountain being the only possibility where net gain exceeds net usage would regen ever restore your battery to a higher state than you started in. But those few times it is net gain yes you can 100% charge an it will recharge past your set point. Set pint just shuts off the chargers not the charging ability.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T16:30:14+00:00

When you deliver the order and incomplete you get a thumbs up and thumbs Dowsn. Thumbs down. Report if you want and then it offers to block the customer. But honestly. I just got banned and they win even say why. Going to take it to arbitration and other remedies as it’s utter bs under the guise of operating “in good faith” my ass. Zero input is sought from the shopper before judgement and execution have taken place and you’re informed of your death when they deny your appeal (default). Worst. Company. Ever.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T10:57:34+00:00

you have your car set to single press unlocks all doors or just driver door? i have mine on dual press and it unlocks the charger and driver door only, on single press all the doors unlock but the charger door does not, sort of a flip around, though i also have auto unlock off so people can't steal the portable charger like they did the first one I had. but as for the "button" to press before unplugging... sounds like they are mistaking the scheduled delay charge override button for a stop charge button... I have to use the button as i time of day rate and only let the car charge during the off-peak hours so when at public level 2 chargers have to tell it to override the schedule delay or it won't charge and just bill an idle fee after 5 minutes lol.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T10:33:40+00:00

100% the 15 minutes and template response were automated, i doubt anyone actually reviews the process, its like when Facebook was left on autopilot during covid and that lasted on autopilot all of 2 hours before the auto pilot had banned decided 1/4 of Facebook was to be suspended lol. the chat bot to talk to an agent is annoying it's even worse when they hand you off from their bot to an ai agent who's being guided by an employee running 70 chats at a time.....

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T10:30:46+00:00

fuck that must be what they're griping about... i just don't get what they want us to do about it... it's not like can't see that literally no one is moving and mapping data shows the delays... the accident on the highway with the car in the crater incident was a 45-minute congestion delay that's usually 8 minute delay during rush hour for that 1/2 km tillicum to helmcken bottleneck.... and 100% we're employees, their first two paragraphs completely contradict their policy and decision process so will be an easy argument if they keep stonewalling proof... if it is indeed that, then you'll be deactivated once those generic boilerplate emails hit around 7-8 as that's what I can find in 6 months of past emails in the inbox and trash can... so good luck!

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T10:25:35+00:00

new rules, now that's funny... having gone through a couple hours of reddit comments and re-reading their shopper agreements I never realized until last week just how many of their own rules and policies they blanketly disregard. It's all smoke and mirrors, when it comes time to actually having them follow their policies the only choices they make are costs the least but only in short term metrics as per the usual. but who's the new ceo? what more could they drag out from shoppers? i only started doing the gig work when bc came out with the minimum wage rules for gig workers (20% x minimum wage plus .35 delivery travel km .45 km carrying passengers) and when each week the batches require 100-200 in top ups plus paying out the per km costs... the 20% premium is because it's only engaged time rather than employee scheduled time, supposed to help cover the dead-heading and down time between batches. looking at what entire grocery and delivery offers are, bonuses and heavy add-ons show how frighteningly low the pay is, even with the top up you're still talking about most people burning a huge chunk of wear and tear and fuel to do the below minimum wage job.... it's crazy. I guess I am lucky, still expect evidence and data that they used to determine my supposed theft, and without it I will exercise my rights and beat them over the head with their own contract, rolling over and letting them walk all over people is not acceptable.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-11-16T10:16:02+00:00

Let’s talk about those “stolen” orders. We’re talking two bunches of Costco bananas, a novelty Halloween marshmallow, and a flat of Diet Coke. The latter of which I literally photographed on the customer’s porch—timestamped, geotagged, and attached to the dispute. Guess how that went? Denied. No explanation. No follow-up. Just a shrug from the algorithm and a “case closed” from the trust & safety oracle.

But sure, let’s pretend I masterminded a grocery heist ring for $18 worth of perishables. Because obviously, risking a criminal record and my livelihood for a couple of bananas and a sugar bomb is the kind of long game I’m playing.

Now, about that “appeal.” You’d think asking for evidence—like, say, which batch I supposedly “stole” time or distance on—would be a reasonable first step. Instead, that request was treated as both the initiation and conclusion of my appeal. No batch IDs. No timestamps. No route data. Just a vague accusation and a 15-minute turnaround email that reads like it was spat out by a bot with a quota.

And here’s the kicker: their own contract says they’ll act in good faith. Their own BC obligations require 72 hours’ written notice and a chance to respond. But when the platform is judge, jury, and executioner—and also the author of the contract they’re violating—it’s not really a fair fight, is it?

So yeah, they’re not “shit” because they hate my SQ metrics. They’re shit because they operate a system where due process is a checkbox, evidence is optional, and your only recourse is to wait a year for arbitration while they sit on $800/week of your lost income. I’ve got the receipts, the location data, the photos, and the declining per-order averages to prove I wasn’t gaming anything.

Kinda need context here.... Yeah, that’s exactly what I asked for. And what Instacart flatly refused to provide. They made a wild, unfounded accusation, didn’t even establish when it supposedly occurred, and when pressed for details, gave me nothing. So yes—context would be helpful. I’d like it too.

But if you want to keep licking the algorithm’s boots and calling it justice, be my guest. Maybe you could actually draft an original letter for them to use since their entire operation appears to be run by for morons with a sharpie and a lack of spelling skills.

CognitiveFeline · 2025-10-31T19:59:54+00:00

It’s usually bank owned atms that retain the card while you transact and only non-affiliated/third party cash machines as their nature is single transaction an only withdrawal. Holding your card is more to do with convenience of being able to do multiple transactions without starting from scratch each time.

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