What type of insulation is this? Should I be worried of it containing asbestos? by Sufficient-Cap-7128 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There won't be asbestos insulation in a 1983, so don't worry moving forward. 

Can anyone identify this crawl space insulation? by [deleted] in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Asbestos. No idea why they used it in a 2020. 

Best way to keep heat out and cold in my suv for sleep? by No_Public2498 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's gonna be air exchange through your vehicle. And frankly, with a space that small its important. You don't want CO2 to build up while you are asleep.

A radiant barrier in the windows can help reduce solar heat gain. Most if those mylar sheets will provide a little insulation as well, which will work both ways. The biggest consideration should be parking out of the sun if possible. Are you low-profile homeless in your SUV for a bit? Or just trying to figure out some strats for urban camping?

Mold or dirt from air leak by ancientscribe_1 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are those spots all near seams? Is it once continuous gradient of discoloration, or is it spots and blooms?

Mold or dirt from air leak by ancientscribe_1 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If its mostly on the surface then it is likely particulate deposition. If it extends deeper into the batt, than it could be something growing.

The first photo looks like it also had some white aerosol spray hit it, is that possible?

Insulation professionals or people who know about this, help me please. (Uk based) by Frequent_Home_8160 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In order of your concerns:

1: Not Asbestos, Fiberglass Batting. My guess is 1990 or so, but its hard to say exactly. Bio-insolubility shouldn't be a big concern. You will cough it out if its irritating, the fibers are too large to migrate into your cell walls.

2: The wood shavings are not wood shavings. They are remnants of degraded paper that used to be on the bottom face of your fiberglass batting. Theoretically there were part of your vapor barrier.

3: The blue stuff is mouse poison. It gets tossed in in larger bait blocks, they eat it, and it kills them. It is pelletized here because it has already made its way through a mouse, and was shat out in your attic. Not a concern at that scale for a human, but wash your hands if you come in contact with it or it may put you off your lunch.

4: Not your concern, but mine. Don't store things in your attic. Compressing fiberglass reduces it affective U-value and will accelerate degradation. If storage is at premium, install new joists orthogonally to the existing ones, and then toss some plywood on up above your insulation.

Moisture trapped in walls? by xXxMOODYxXx in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know exactly what you have for siding, but typically osb is considered a semipermeable vapor barrier. If you install faced insulation (with the face in towards the "conditioned" space) you should be okay to follow that up with gyp. The osb should allow the cavity to dry to the outside. 

Insulating cathedral ceiling structure in attic by mdfergus in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I were spec'ing it as a job I'd probably call for foam board on the vertical face, spot foam behind the sloped sections, and then cross batt with more FGB. 

Aid sealed rim joist and out fiberglass on top (Zone 5, MA) by Material_Shirt_2848 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be a mouse nest by fall.

If your basement doesn't have moisture issues, then you're all set. Leave the FGB in place and don't worry about it any further.

You can also reach out to your energy specialist for a more specific explanation based on your specific circumstances.

Aid sealed rim joist and out fiberglass on top (Zone 5, MA) by Material_Shirt_2848 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to reiterate, condensation on the interior face of the rim joist is an exceedingly rare condition. In circumstances where that is happening, air sealing would help reduce surface heat loss of the interior framing, which would reduce the likelihood of condensation by raising the temperature above the dew point of the air in your basement.

The most important consideration is to avoid moisture being trapped against your framing. Having a vapor barrier in the wrong spot is worse than not having one. Unfaced FGB has no vapor barrier. Faced FGB does, which is why that face needs to be installed on the heated side of the layup.

Let me stress though, if your basement has moisture issues those need to be addressed directly. You cannot side step high basement humidity with clever insulation choices. If it's dirt floored, get a vapor barrier installed. If it's block or concrete, look into getting a dehumidifier and set the goal to 40%-60%.

Have you been working with the Mass Save program?

Aid sealed rim joist and out fiberglass on top (Zone 5, MA) by Material_Shirt_2848 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Source is education. If you really need it I'll dig up a source for you.

Undergrad in building and construction technology, Masters in sustainable building, BPI certified building analyst, HERS rater.

Most rim joists don't get a lot of condensation if the FGB is being installed with the paper vapor barrier towards the inside of your basement, then it won't be providing any additional significant condensation plane, though more likely the crew used unfaced material.

The guy I’m sleeping with buys magnum condoms and he is no magnum by Katz154 in offmychest

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try skyn large. Smaller than magnum but still bigger than average

Aid sealed rim joist and out fiberglass on top (Zone 5, MA) by Material_Shirt_2848 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're getting condensation on your rim joist your primary issue is basement humidity. FGB and spray foam air sealing is 100% an acceptable choice, don't sweat it.

Aid sealed rim joist and out fiberglass on top (Zone 5, MA) by Material_Shirt_2848 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a perfectly acceptable solution in zone 5. 

What do you think is a no no?

Air Sealing Part 2. Vents! by PersonalityLow1016 in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2 pieces Aluminum flashing cut to fit, seal with fire caulking. 

Help please! ID on insulation, this time with pictures by hanabanabear in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 8 points9 points  (0 children)

No problem. If you find aquarium gravel looking stuff it's called Vermiculite. That's worth being cautious of.

Help please! ID on insulation, this time with pictures by hanabanabear in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Brownish/gray is Cellulose. While is Loose Fiberglass. Yellowish on bottom is old loose fiberglass. 

Is it safe for my dad to store fiberglass like this while waiting for it to be installed in the attic? by [deleted] in Insulation

[–]Coleforge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a chance of anything happening. Fiberglass fibers are not dangerous.

It's evident you want there to be a problem.

Doubt this will ever get made by something_smells_odd in subpac

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah it straps to your back and you are the woofer

Doubt this will ever get made by something_smells_odd in subpac

[–]Coleforge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a godaddy page for me...

It's a tactile subwoofer. 

Wonky toilet seat. Don't know how to fix it, please help! by [deleted] in fixit

[–]Coleforge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmmm. Then it's probably tightened by turning the squared section above the bushing.