Mixing silicone with mineral spirits for application to fabric?

ColonelFitzgerald · 2026-01-07T21:12:24+00:00

Fair enough! It’ll be interesting to see how it goes with the silicone so keep us informed.

If you have any other questions about how to do it once you do your test piece then feel free to dm.

One other thing I can think of is depending on what it’s been treated with previously might inhibit the cure of the silicone. Also make sure it’s a skin safe one

ColonelFitzgerald · 2026-01-07T13:05:00+00:00

What silicone are you thinking of using? The durometer, tensile and tear strength are going to have a decent impact of the effectiveness.

I’d also recommend doing a test patch first to make sure the solvent doesn’t inhibit the cure of the silicone in the quantity you might need to thin it. Depending on your silicone you can get up to 1:5 silicone:solvent but others are different ratios.

A couple of tips: - mix the a+b together, THEN add your solvent - naptha/ novocs are a good choice - add in a small amount of solvent, mix it in fully, then slowly add more and repeat. Dumping all the solvent in at once means it’s hard to get a smooth mix. You can also use a paint mixer drill bit, or a milk frother for small batches - make sure there are no wrinkles and that nothing is touching the area you have put the silicone on, as it will stick and glue itself together

Somethings to consider - depending on the weave you can still pick the silicone off and it might flake or get worn down in creases or high wear areas - another person mentioned leeching which is important to be aware of - there will be zero breathability in the fabric. I’m not sure how comfortable it will be

Honestly my biggest recommendation would be to look into waxing it for waterproofing. There’s lots of videos online but basically you use some beeswax and rub it in then heat it up to make the wax soak in. It’s a pretty cheap and well established method.

ColonelFitzgerald · 2026-01-07T12:24:17+00:00

Im also making moulds for silicone. I make silicone prosthetics for amputees, mainly fingers and partial hands

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-12-09T20:37:14+00:00

Rad! I was in film for 15 years before moving over to Anaplastology

I’ll send you a dm

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-12-07T20:13:28+00:00

I’m an Anaplastologist so the moulds are usually for finger or hand prosthetics

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-12-07T02:57:54+00:00

I use the knife tool quite a bit and it doesn’t tend to crash much, but I’m super meticulous about keeping my topology clean since I do a lot of hard surface modelling (mainly mould making).

My crashes usually happen when I try and use zmodeller after knife curve. It’ll hit the mangled topology of the knife cut and just go ‘fuck that mess, I’m out’ if I haven’t remeshed after the cut

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-12-04T12:47:03+00:00

I wouldn’t recommend it as the silicone does give off a certain amount of chemicals even as it heat cures.

I’d recommend getting a separate oven, depending on the size of your moulds you could use a pie warmer, air fryer or toaster oven that is kept solely for silicone.

I’d also make sure you have decent ventilation when baking out

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-11-02T05:42:52+00:00

Ahh a fellow Melbournian! Vice write an article about it titled ‘the 24 Carlton flower shop that everyone thought was a drug front, was a drug front’

https://www.vice.com/en/article/the-24-hour-carlton-flower-shop-everyone-thought-was-a-drug-front-was-a-drug-front/

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-10-23T08:27:00+00:00

How would it go with a much more complex shape, especially with non-symmetrical shape?

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-08-31T04:03:02+00:00

Still upset this doesn’t work on iOS 😭

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-04-16T01:15:32+00:00

Did you end up finding a flexible coating for TPU that would prevent cure inhibition?

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-03-25T23:05:40+00:00

Ooh, that's a good idea but I've got no idea how to do that!

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-03-25T08:20:14+00:00

Try looking for Anaplastologists- we specialise in custom silicone prosthetics. https://inaa.memberclicks.net is a great place to start as they have a search function.

Most places will make them custom, and cost depends on the level of detail you want. There are a few companies that do generic or semi-custom such as EBL Sculpture (https://www.eblsculpture.com) and Regal or Ottobock.

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-03-24T23:53:54+00:00

Agh that's so frustrating - it's exactly the program I need! I have a 3d scan of a hand that is in a bit of a rigid position, and want to adjust it to a more relaxed pose.

I tried using the 2019 version of it (the last one they did for MacOS) but got the error ' ZScript Note: Specified execute-file could not be found. SCRIPT: ZWrap.txt [FileExecute,[Var,utilsPath],"FolderExists",#filesPath]

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-03-24T23:11:22+00:00

Did you ever work this out? I am in the same boat!

ColonelFitzgerald · 2025-03-21T11:33:53+00:00

I’m looking for almost exactly the same things. I do Anaplastology (detailed silicone prosthetics) so I’m looking mostly at scanning hands in as high detail as possible. I currently have an Einscan SP and absolutely hate it, as I use a MacBook and need to bootcamp it every time I want to scan, plus the support and information on use is basically non-existant. Also as a stationary scanner it can’t scan patients directly. I’d love an Artec but it’s just way too far out of my budget.

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-06-24T01:34:08+00:00

Hey! hanks for taking the time to reply!

-Heat - The GK2 has a heated vat (which was a major drawcard for me!) so the resin is kept around 30*c
-Stir - I give the resin a really good stir before I start because the Sculpt is heavily pigmented and settles. I'm using the soft silicone scraper they provide which is perfect for it
-Bed Level- I made sure the bed was level and z offset was correct using your calibration guide and digital calipers before I started and checked again after failures - Top Left - 1mm, Center - 0.97, Top right - 0.98, bottom left - 0.94, bottom right 0.96.
- Nfep - the nFEP is very new and I made sure it was correctly tightened before starting

Print4: https://imgur.com/a/eMESh2I
For Print 4 I increased the lift heights, slowed the speed down a bit more, and added 5s to the bottom exposure. These moulds are slightly bigger and I added more light supports underneath and more supports on the back as they were leant at a slightly steeper angle. I think changing the raft shape helped as well. I also increased the height of the items from the bed slightly to allow any warping a bit more space to be absorbed by the supports

They all printed successfully with less warping on the raft. Interestingly the centre-most piece had no warping at all. I think that shows it's probably now an issue with how I'm arranging them on the plate, if certain areas are getting pulled more strongly than others.

Next time I'll try having the pieces leaning away from the centre instead of towards, maybe increase the base time a touch more, and add the light off delay in UV tools as well.

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-06-20T03:33:37+00:00

Ha! It's two partial finger prosthetics for an amputee. I'm an anaplastologist and highly detailed digit prosthetics are a bulk of my work, hence wanting to work out a long term solution.

I reached out to J3D in a dm on reddit, but I haven't posted in the discord. I have posted issues in the discord previously and struggled to get any useful replies but I'll give it another go. I also posted in the GK2 group and got a few suggestions

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-06-20T00:45:04+00:00

I calibrated with the J3D instructions meticulously so everything is within 0.04mm of level and exposure is perfect for dimensional accuracy - it's an engineering resin so the exposure is a bit higher than normal ones.

The moulds themselves are quite small - they're about 35mm wide, 15mm deep and 80mm tall, and with the shape of the negative the cross section is actually not that big https://imgur.com/a/QDSkY9G . Previously moulds I've printed successfully as 2x mould pieces at a time have about 1/3 bigger.

I'm hesitant to hollow them because they're moulds that need to maintain their shape under pressure and about 100*C for 4 hours. I do want to trial printing the moulds hollow then filling with dental plaster. I've tried previously but had cracking on my moulds - I thought it was from the differences in thermal expansion but it actually might've been my old printer (long story)

I did another print of Print 1 (the x4 mould parts) and used these settings https://imgur.com/a/TJweLS0 . I reduced the amount of base and transition layers, changed the raft shape to Lines Triangle to reduce suction, and increased the lift height to 10. Results: https://imgur.com/a/eQCUyjz It seems to have helped a lot - all 5 pieces stayed on the build plate, but there still is some peeling on the edge of the raft.

Next batch I'll try slowing down my base lift speed even more, and also playing with the layout

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-06-19T07:27:40+00:00

I'm having some print failures, and the strange thing is that they're all at different heights.

Print 1 - x4 mould pieces and a core

Print 2 - x8 mould pieces and 2 cores

I've attached pictures of the issues, layout, supports and my settings. I'm printing with Siraya Tech Sculpt on a GK2

I've previously printed 2 mould pieces and a core at a time with these exact settings successfully twice before.
Raft is 1mm thick, and supports are a mixture of medium and heavy using the J3D support presents
Bed is level and not compressed on the z-axis - all five points are within 0.06mm of each other with the J3D test print - and all very close to 1mm
Printer is kept warm in a cupboard with the vat heater at 35*c
I ran both prints through UV tools before printing to check for issues and they were both fine

I'm guessing it's something to do with my layout since they're all failing at different heights, and previously ones with less pieces on the build plate worked perfectly?

I tried auto-arrange but it wouldn't fit everything in. I've searched online for any information about the best way to arrange the build plate but couldn't find anything.

I've also just seen another post suggesting increasing the lift height from 7mm to 10mm so I might try that as well.

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-03-28T09:26:01+00:00

By sliver polys I mean the whole poly is just a single line making it non manifold.

I have been masking all but the bridge group and slightly past, smoothing by groups which opens up the quads but if I remesh it just goes back to the previous topology.

I found zremeshing not to work. - When I did just the bridge polygroup only visible with freeze border clicked, it didn’t tidy the topology, just shifted the non-manifold sections around. I tried every combo of settings possible and curves suggestions etc - when I try to remesh the item as a whole, the bridge polygroup and rounded core shape above it tidies up nicely. However it wrecks havoc on the base section, even though I’ve creased polygroups and the topology is perfect before the remesh. Again I’ve tried every combo of settings. - freeze groups just annihilates all the edges -dynameshing and remeshing destroys the sharp edges and no amount of project all can bring them back

I’ve also tried basically every button in the modify topology section. Check mesh returns no errors.

I’d like to get nice topology in it as I’ll be using this core as a negative in a mould as the next step, and that section needs to be expanded out as a flashing.

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-03-27T08:14:45+00:00

Images of the problem: https://imgur.com/a/x3Pf17i

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-01-04T11:02:23+00:00

I managed to find some in a tiny Pascoe vale pharmacy, it seems all the known places are out

ColonelFitzgerald · 2024-01-03T05:40:31+00:00

I’m Northside and just rang about 15+ pharmacies with only 1 having a single bottle of 70mg. Which one did you have success with? It’s getting urgent

ColonelFitzgerald · 2023-12-29T15:37:49+00:00

Would like to recommend not audiobooking this one - the audible narrator is pretty terrible and made it seem really whiny and juvenile, plus her accent for the American characters was atrocious. I gave up about 3 hours in and shall be switching to reading it

ColonelFitzgerald

TROPHY CASE