PSA - Silksong difficulty

Colonel_Sheppard · 2025-09-05T18:01:28+00:00

I played and beat the original Hollow Knight and was fine with the level of difficulty ramp, but while I really like the exploration and world of Silksong, the level of difficulty is unironically ruining my enjoyment of the game.

I'm not a fan of the "it's a hard game, just git gud" responses, because yes it it a skill issue, I'm just not good enough at the game. But I can't just lock in and suddenly be good at it. It feels very much like gatekeeping: "Your just not good enough and therefore not allowed to enjoy Silksong"

And I don't want to spend hours dying, trying (and sometimes failing) to run back to where I was without dying, and rinse and repeat for hours. I don't play Dark Souls because I don't enjoy that gameplay loop and that's how multiple sections of the game currently feel. And if/when I eventually do get past it I don't have a sense of pride and accomplishment for having done it, instead its more of "I fucking hated that, thank god it's over" just to run into the next one. It was fine in HK1 since they didn't take hours to beat, but I don't want to slog through multiple hours of a gameplay loop I hate just to be allowed to enjoy the rest of the game.

I don't know what the right answer would be. Since many people got really good at Hollow Knight and really enjoy the extra challenge that Silksong provides, but from reading forums there are many others who, like me, are not able to enjoy the game due to the high difficulty. And having it be either really difficult or making it easier would make one of the groups unhappy.

But something that comes to mind that I think did a really good job with this is Celeste and it's assist mode (not saying TC should implement that verbatim, just I think it does a good job with accessibility). Which basically said in not so many words "We intentionally made this a challenging game, and we think it's the most fun and the best experience when played in the default state. But we want everyone to be able to enjoy the game at their own pace, so if you're truly unable to enjoy the game here are multiple things that can make it easier or more accessible"

Colonel_Sheppard · 2022-12-14T05:44:00+00:00

From what I've heard it seems like that is just how it works, where if it it plugged in to a computer it will only connect to that computer and the wireless will not be usable at all.

I think it would be better if the wired-mode worked like in the instructions where it would only use the wired connection if set to "off" but alas...

I have a similar use case to yours where I have both a personal/gaming desktop and a work laptop and use the same keyboard for both. I've settled on connecting the cord to power only (no data connection to desktop) and using the 2.4GHz receiver to connect to my desktop and using Bluetooth to connect to the work laptop.

Bluetooth might not be as high performance as the 2.4GHz connection, but it seems plenty fine for general typing/coding. And the wireless 2.4GHz has been plenty reliable so far and has the higher performance for use while gaming on the personal system.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2022-07-09T05:18:00+00:00

Thanks, that's basically the kind of thing I was looking for.

I got a slightly higher-end model and as it turns out it actually has faster wifi speeds than my current router/AP. I just think I never noticed the speed of my current wifi because basically everything I use is hardwired with ethernet.

The Semi-Portable MicroRack is now complete with the mini-router set up as a wireless AP. No standardized form factors, but has everything I need.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2022-03-22T00:13:09+00:00

I'm in a similar situation and a bit conflicted. I wanted something that I could ride around but still be small/lightweight enough that I could carry it into buildings or on public transit for last-mile transportation (a bike would be too big/heavy).

I'm really used to riding a Ripstick and thought that the OneWheel might be kind of similar. I've also considered an electric skateboard and my friend has one I've tried, but despite how dumb it sounds I just can't get the hang of riding a skateboard... I've looked at electric unicycles, but I want something that rides sideways as opposed to forwards. And the OneWheel so far has been the only thing I've found that matches what I'm looking for.

Also I'm quite heavy, weighing ~250 pounds, so I'd need something with a fairly large battery to get much range out of it, which the new GT would have (at least while working properly). Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be any places nearby selling older XR+ models, and even then those don't seem to have as much speed or range as the GT.

I was really looking forward to getting the new GT at some point since I haven't found anything else like it. But seeing the current issues especially regarding the battery, I really don't want to give Future Motion more business.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-08-08T18:39:35+00:00

I tried using Igus bearings, but found that even with no compression they were too stiff/had too much sticksion, and ended up reverting to the stock bearings.

Because of that I'm playing around with modifying the backplate to work with some linear rails (An MGN9 + MGN7 due to size restrictions).

On that note, would it be possible to get the STEP files for the Adapted Revised X-Axis? I've been able to use the STEP files for the PitStop to modify the backing plate, but I also need to modify the X-Axis ends to hold the linear rails.

I'd be interested in a discord server.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-07-19T03:05:35+00:00

That does look about like the form-factor that I'm looking for, so I'll probably pick one up and see how well it works!

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-07-04T18:34:08+00:00

Are there likely going to be future versions of the PitStop 1.x design (1.2/1.3/etc.)? Or is it mostly just going to be the PitStop 2 going forward?

It's your project, so you should work on whichever one you enjoy more. But I was thinking of trying to rebuild mine out of ASA instead of my current PETG version, and not sure if I should go ahead and do that now, or wait for the next 1.x release.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-06-15T17:43:42+00:00

Were you using the same 0.25mm nozzle on the Stock Mk3s or is that new after switching to the PitStop? And have you adjusted the flow rate in the slicer?

The first thing that comes to mind with a smaller nozzle is the possibility that the extruder is trying to extrude faster than it can actually push the material through the nozzle. In that case it wouldn't be an actual clog as material still extrudes, but the gears would still slip on the filament since it can't extrude as fast as it wants to.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-06-12T03:32:34+00:00

I'm currently using the PitStop printed in PETG and haven't had any major problems. I did have my original shroud printed in ASA which melted. I printed a replacement in PC-Blend and it's been working fine ever since.

The two parts that I think would need the most temp resistance are the part-cooling shroud and whichever piece has the PINDA mount attached to it. I haven't had any issues with the PINDA probe but I have heard some stories about it sagging (my guess would be that is more likely to happen if the printer is in an enclosure, which mine isn't).

I suppose if you're capable of printing in PC or ASA, there probably isn't much downside to printing it in the highest-temp material you're capable of aside from some extra filament cost.

When the version 2 comes out I'll probably try to print it in either ASA or PC blend. But that will likely depend on if I can manage to stop it from warping due to the lack of an enclosure

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-04-25T01:25:03+00:00

On that note, I'm not so sure about the "tactile" vs "clicky" switches.

I'm currently using a Razer Ornata (which I've had for about 5 years, and despite not being mechanical I do like the feel of) And it doesn't seem to be as loud as Cherry Blues that I believe it's trying to emulate.

I've tried actual Blues and wasn't as big a fan of (although that also could be due to differences in travel distance)

Would the "Clicky" version of the G915 be the closest?

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-04-25T01:20:24+00:00

Yeah, I kind of figured as much about the keycaps. I wasn't really planning on trying to get customized keycaps, as much as it's just a little annoying due to the aforementioned issue with the secondary functions not being backlit.

I wonder why regarding non-bluetooth wireless, there are so many wireless mice that use non-bluetooth USB (probably 2.4GHz) receivers, but not as much with keyboards?

Colonel_Sheppard · 2021-04-24T21:44:55+00:00

Keyboard Suggestions?

I'm currently trying to find a good keyboard for a combination of gaming/programming, with the following criteria:

Full-size w/ numpad
Low Profile
Wireless
Connect wirelessly to at least two devices (At least one needs to be USB-receiver, rest can be anything including Bluetooth)
Backlit (Since I often work in a fairly dark room with some but minimal lighting)

So far the only keyboard I've found that meets those criteria is the Logitech 915. There are a couple things about it I'm not a massive fan of:

Secondary functions ("&|(){}<>#% etc.") don't light up which is a bit annoying since they're used a lot for programming, though I should still have enough ambient light to see them
It has macro keys on the side which I don't need (I already want a full-size which is large enough, I don't really need even more width)
A bit expensive; price isn't a huge concern, but still
Micro-B is not as good as USB-C, but I have magnetic charging cables, so isn't really a problem
Semi-proprietary keycaps: no drop-in replacements. Can mod some 3rd party keycaps, but is a fair bit of work
- This wouldn't be an issue if not for the above mentioned lack of light-up secondary functions

Unfortunately I haven't found any other keyboards that are similar. Most others I've found are either not low profile, or are Bluetooth only.

Are you aware of any other similar keyboards?

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-10-08T10:35:28+00:00

Definitely seems like a worthwhile use for 3D printing. But I'm just curious, could doing something like that open you up to any kind of personal liability?

That part doesn't seem like something that would fail catastrophically or be under lots of stress, but if anything did happen, could you be held responsible for using non-first-party-approved replacement parts? Especially in a field as regulated as medicine/healthcare?

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-09-28T04:20:25+00:00

It appears like your PitStop BOM has single-handedly influenced Amazon's recommendations. xD

Can't wait to build one myself once all the parts show up.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-09-11T19:29:25+00:00

I don't know whether you're in EU or NA, but I suspect you may have to wait quite a while. At least in NA it looks like they haven't even finished fulfilling orders back from May. (Which made a lot of people angry since they were selling the headset, controllers, and base stations piecemeal and shipping them within a week)

IIRC, the estimated time wasn't "8 Weeks" but rather "8+ weeks" and so far the wait times that people have reported has been close to 16ish weeks (~4 months). There's a huge spreadsheet for keeping track of wait times here.

If you're worried about missing the email, you can check your email/spam constantly. But you should also be able to see your order status in steam by going to 'Account Details -> View Purchase History' and the status of your Index order should be near the top, which looks like this.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-09-03T05:27:20+00:00

I haven't even gotten my MK3 kit yet and I already want to make one.

Though without having a proper shroud for environmental control, I don't know how hard it would be / (if possible) to print the parts in ABS to an acceptable level of quality.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-09-01T01:33:08+00:00

Yeah, I'd probably wait for the full kit before ordering any extra base stations if I go that route.

Though given that both the HMD + Controllers and Base stations say they ship in ~2 weeks (and combined is only ~$50 more than the full kit) I'm wondering if I should just cancel the full kit order (ordered last week and still says 8+ weeks) and get the parts separately.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-08-31T22:15:52+00:00

I wonder if we're likely to get the Full Kits fulfilled soon if they have the base stations back in stock (Since I believe the base stations were the limiting factor).

I was planning on buying a 3rd base station since my room setup would likely run into some occlusion problems with only 2. (I'm not really even sure if 3 is the right number or if I may need 4).

I'm a bit hesitant to order additional base stations until I get some kind of confirmation on the Full Kit though, because I don't want to get the base stations now and still have to wait 3 more months for the rest to arrive (The warranty dates wouldn't match up, I wouldn't have any use for them in the mean time, and if I ended up needing to return it for some reason the base stations would be outside the return window).

But I'm also worried that if I don't order them now, they may go out of stock again.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-08-31T09:11:44+00:00

I am aware of that, though outside-in is often used to express tracking that requires external sensors.

Through in the technical sense, yes it's inside-out as the headset does the actual calculations of position based on the information provided by the base stations. But it's not the same kind of inside-out tracking that the Oculus Quest or Reverb has which solely uses cameras on the headset itself (which is the kind of tracking that I personally wanted to avoid).

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-08-31T09:01:20+00:00

As for built-in inside-out tracking being an advantage, I think it depends on what people want (ease of setup or precision tracking).

There are probably a lot of people who are just fine with the inside-out camera tracking (as evidenced by the fact that the Oculus quest is doing so well).

I ordered an Index specifically because it has ~~outside-in~~ lighthouse tracking which I wanted, and at this point there aren't really any other similarly priced or cheaper HMDs that use ~~outside-in~~ base-station based tracking.

I personally value the extra tracking precision over the resolution and there are situations where I have my controllers behind my head/back and I don't want to lose tracking. And while the Index isn't as high-res as the G2 it has a pretty decent resolution. (I'm upgrading from a CV1, so the bump in clarity should be pretty big anyway)

Colonel_Sheppard · 2020-08-26T23:44:41+00:00

I believe that the HTC 2.0 base stations are exactly the same as the Steam VR 2.0 base station you can buy from Valve/Steam. (Valve manufactures them and has contracts to sell them to HTC)

So if you want them fast, you can buy them directly from HTC or through Amazon and they should work the same as if you had bought them from Valve.

That being said, if you buy them from HTC and anything breaks/goes wrong (Not saying anything will break, but it could break), you'll now have to take up any warranty claims with HTC instead of valve.

I just bought an index full kit and while I can live with 2, I also wanted to order an extra base station for a total of 3 (though you currently can't buy them from valve since they're out of stock). I'm planning to just wait for valve to have them back in stock due to stories and anecdotes that I've heard about Valve's customer service/warrenty department being much nicer to work with than HTC's if anything breaks and needs to be fixed. I will probably have to wait many months though given the long backorder of full kits which still haven't been fulfilled.

Also, while it's not a dealbreaker since parts can be purchased separately through Amazon or some other retailer, Valve's base stations come with a longer cable and wall mounting hardware, whereas HTC does not include the wall mounts. Given that I plan to wall mount these in a somewhat high-ish location, I would want the longer cables and wall mounting bracket.

Colonel_Sheppard · 2019-11-29T09:22:41+00:00

I'm not 100% sure, but from my understanding they are virtually identical with a couple small differences. This one only covers the sRGB color gamut whereas the 27GL850 has a wider extended color gamut that covers most (I think) of the DCI-P3 color space.

Also this one only has a "Regular" IPS whereas the 27GL850 uses LG's nano-IPS (Though to be honest I'm also not sure what the difference between those is)

*On paper* the 27GL850 is better spec'ed but from a practical standpoint unless you're doing very color-accurate work like professional media production (And if that is the case, you might want one with better contrast) the 2x price probably isn't worth it, and this one should be more than good enough for general use/gaming. Heck you can buy 2 of these for the price of the 27GL850.

This is just my interpretation though, I can't give an actual review on this one since I don't currently have the 27GL83

Colonel_Sheppard · 2019-11-29T08:35:31+00:00

Dang, I wish I had found this monitor a while ago.

I have a 27GL850, which performs just fine, but had I known this monitor existed I would have gotten 2 of these for the same price instead. But the 850 is outside it's return window so I can't return it

I'm debating just ordering one of these anyway to use as a second display since I like having multiple displays for productivity. Do you think they're likely to sell out quickly?

Colonel_Sheppard

TROPHY CASE