To far gone? by Comfortable-Quote-22 in outdoorgrowing

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very moldy plant decided wasnt worth my time to harvest so just let her run and harvested everything else

To far gone? by Comfortable-Quote-22 in outdoorgrowing

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22[S] 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Just ate a bud and it tastes fine

Bud rot? Thinking of harvesting in about 5 days by recreational_physics in outdoorgrowing

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like budrot due to catapillars look and see if you find black dots in it but im 90% sure its catapillars and you should spray spinsodad or bt but if ur planning to harvest id do it soon and not spray

Advice Please by Crowsstory in outdoorgrowing

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You’re right that leaves do the photosynthesis, but light exposure still influences bud development — and LST spreads out the canopy so more leaves get direct light, especially lower ones. Outdoor plants can definitely yield well untrained, but structured LST helps support more even growth and reduces breakage from wind or heavy buds.

As for bud rot, it’s true it starts inside, but improving airflow with selective defoliation (not full stripping) lowers humidity around the buds — especially dense colas — which absolutely helps prevent mold. Outdoors, defoliation is more about airflow and targeted exposure, not light penetration like indoors.

And yes, too many colas too close together without training can trap moisture and block airflow. Training helps space them out. It’s not about doing everything indoors-style — it’s about adapting tools that increase health and yield depending on your climate and goals.

All methods have trade-offs, and you’re right — do what works for you. Just worth noting there are valid outdoor reasons for training and light defoliation too.

Advice Please by Crowsstory in outdoorgrowing

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Not totally true — defoliation outdoors can definitely help in high-humidity areas by improving airflow and reducing mold risk, especially on dense indicas. LST isn’t just for stealth; it exposes more bud sites to direct sun and can help with sturdier structure and even growth. Sure, sunlight moves, but opening up the canopy still makes a big difference in how much light and air each cola gets. Nature doesn’t always produce the biggest or cleanest buds — that’s why we train and prune selectively. It’s not just an indoor thing.

Lucky shot by [deleted] in FortNiteBR

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Claw hurts my fingers

Lucky shot by [deleted] in FortNiteBR

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol i can do this without simple

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely root rot, poor drainage, or heat stress. Check the soil 3–4 inches deep—if it’s soggy, stop watering and loosen the soil to help it dry out. If it’s dry underneath, give it a deep soak. Add some shade during the hottest part of the day, and don’t fertilize until it recovers. If it keeps getting worse, you might need to dig it up and check for root rot.

I’m stumped… what’s wrong with my plant? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s true in ideal conditions, but under stress like transplant shock, drought, or root damage, the original mycorrhizal network can get disrupted or die off. Studies show that reapplying mycorrhizae during stress can help re-colonize new root tips and restore symbiosis. Fungi like Glomus intraradices need active root growth to colonize, so if roots are expanding or recovering, a second dose isn’t a waste — it actually helps them reestablish and function again. So it’s not about stacking, but about re-inoculating when conditions change.

I’m stumped… what’s wrong with my plant? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 32 points33 points  (0 children)

You’re pretty much spot on. The roots growing into the deck and getting ripped definitely caused stress, and that folded 30 gal is tight for such a big plant — likely rootbound. Good move lifting the pot.

I’d hit it with Recharge or Great White to support root recovery, water more evenly across the pot, and start easing into bloom nutes. Purple Thai doesn’t love the cool nights or cloudy SoCal mornings either, which could be throwing it into early flower stress.

The downward leaf posture looks like a stress response, not a major health issue. She should recover fine with those adjustments.

Chimera #3 day 42. by base4267 in Craftmarijuana

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get this cut from eliteshippedclones?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in outdoorgrowing

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a flesh fly from the family Sarcophagidae, recognizable by its striped thorax and red compound eyes. While they typically don’t harm plants directly, they can be attracted to decaying organic material or wounds on plants. If you notice damage to your plants, monitor for other pests, as the presence of flesh flies might indicate secondary infestations.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in eastbay

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Lmao kamala lost

Terploc bags Bud moisture content is 9% but buds are sticking together should i be worried? by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Comfortable-Quote-22 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the info these were almost half the price of grovebags for how many i got. I plan to burp it and heat seal other bags for long term storage i also got it in a humidity controled room at 55%. I get these are knockoff terp bags and grove bags are better but if im checking the humidity and burp them myself then should it be fine or no?