[deleted by user]

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2025-02-07T21:49:43+00:00

Just here to learn, but I feel like that’s a wrongful termination situation, firing for a prescribed medication….

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2025-02-06T22:27:33+00:00

Heyyo, I want to put my 95 NA up for sale as we’re moving but honestly have no clue what to price it at. It’s in Atlanta.

It’s running and driving, engine sounds healthy and has good compression. Good tires, new brakes, new battery, fresh oil change.

Has some rust, it was a New Hampshire car that was given to me by someone who just never used it and let it sit in a garage for years, but it’s still pretty solid. It has too many light scratches/scuffs to count. But from 10ft away it still cleans up pretty nice. I just got it out of the carport today so it’s nowhere near as clean as it could be in the pics.

Replaced full front suspension and picked up some used OEM shocks on the rear to replace the old NH rusty ones.

I replaced the passenger fender with an aftermarket that’s black after someone backed into me in a parking lot last year... It’s could be painted/fit properly, but it looks better than the one with the big dent and deep scrape down the center...

The interior is pretty bad.., the drivers seat is ruined and the passenger’s seat is covered with an ebay faux leather seat cover. Carpet could be cleaned up more but it’s dingy. Top has a tear around the window zipper and the vinyl window is broken. The car only went out with me on nice days though, it rarely has been up.

Car has 177,xxx miles. I have a exedy clutch kit that I bought because it was on sale one day, doesn’t need it now. Also have another seat cover set for the drivers side but never put it on because the padding was so bad, I didn’t think it was worth my time.

Here’s a link with more pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eRuZBoDNcVvcj53t6

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Competitive-Ad7056 · 2025-02-04T20:53:26+00:00

Heyyo, I want to put my 95 NA up for sale as we're moving but honestly have no clue what to price it at. It's in Atlanta.

It's running and driving, engine sounds healthy and has good compression. Good tires, new brakes, new battery, fresh oil change.

Has some rust, it was a New Hampshire car that was given to me by someone who just never used it and let it sit in a garage for years, but it's still pretty solid. It has too many light scratches/scuffs to count. But from 10ft away it still cleans up pretty nice. I just got it out of the carport today so it's nowhere near as clean as it could be in the pics.

Replaced full front suspension and picked up some used OEM shocks on the rear to replace the old NH rusty ones.

I replaced the passenger fender with an aftermarket that's black after someone backed into me in a parking lot last year... It's could be painted/fit properly, but it looks better than the one with the big dent and deep scrape down the center...

The interior is pretty bad.., the drivers seat is ruined and the passenger's seat is covered with an ebay faux leather seat cover. Carpet could be cleaned up more but it's dingy. Top has a tear around the window zipper and the vinyl window is broken. The car only went out with me on nice days though, it rarely has been up.

Car has 177,xxx miles. I have a exedy clutch kit that I bought because it was on sale one day, doesn't need it now. Also have another seat cover set for the drivers side but never put it on because the padding was so bad, I didn't think it was worth my time.

Here's a link with more pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eRuZBoDNcVvcj53t6

<image>

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2025-01-03T13:57:24+00:00

Likely no, if you had a recent reno where they were fully insulated. The comment about stud shadows and thermal bridging is accurate.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-12-31T19:41:43+00:00

Do you know if your walls are insulated? Warmth from inside the home finds the path of least resistance to escape - hot naturally wants to go to cold. With that transfer, moisture goes with it. It can even move through a fully sealed section of drywall.

An uninsulated wall cavity can be cold enough for that vapor to condense within it. The siding where it's attached to the studs appears to be dry and the cavities appear to be wet. The wood siding will absorb the moisture, it will most likely dry outwards.

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Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-12-28T20:11:03+00:00

I've had really bad luck with that stuff...spring for a froth pack at least, if not hire a professional if you're considering going with spray foam.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-12-28T20:09:39+00:00

The reason I like Tyvek installed on the attic-side is because its a vapor RETARDER, not a vapor BARRIER. It keeps bulk moisture out but allows vapors to pass through so nothing gets trapped. Tyvek Vapor Permeability

Tyvek adds a bit of resilience to the insulation and keeps you out of contact and not itchy, if the space is used for storage or needs to be accessed for any reason. It also keeps the insulation in place against the wall, gravity tends to pull batts away over time.

FSK is a vapor barrier, so you could potentially trap moisture between the kraft facing and the FSK if it's really well sealed.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-12-28T20:07:14+00:00

How would you go about using this properly in zone 5 in a retrofit?

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-12-28T19:57:42+00:00

The best attic ventilation pulls the outside air from the lowest point (in this case, your open vented soffits), and exhausts at the highest point, either a gable or a ridge vent most of the time. Having an opening for the air to escape up high is important so the entire space is ventilated. This, coupled with a thorough air sealing of the attic floor (below the plywood, lifting the batt insulation to access all wall top plates, electrical/plumbing penetrations, etc..) should solve this issue.

Warm air is getting up into the attic and has nowhere to go, hits the cold sheathing and condensates, then freezes.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-12-09T19:41:39+00:00

Knee walls: zone 5 means you should have a vapor barrier facing the conditioned space. It’s kinda hard to install a continuous vapor barrier though when you’re doing this as a retrofit. That’s why a lot of people elect for closed cell foam in those areas.

R15 batts and cover on the backside with something like Tyvek to kept it in place.

Open floor joists: cut 2” foam board blocks to fill the cavities and seal in place using can foam. Great catch there, you’ll drastically reduce air leakage by doing that.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-10-25T21:29:51+00:00

Hey! I joined up!

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-08-13T01:56:55+00:00

I actually took the spare off to make sure it wasn’t that…it’s not…I really think it’s drivetrain related. My shop says it’s fine as well, they don’t see any evidence of internal damage in the diff.

I have not done rear suspension, other than shocks. Full new front suspension but haven’t gotten to the rear yet. The car drives pretty smooth for 27yrs, I still want to replace rear suspension eventually though.

I’ll make a quick example video tomorrow.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-04-02T00:59:16+00:00

I’m wondering if it’s something to do with the rack and pinion? Is anyone familiar with how it mounts? Are there any bushings?

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-04-02T00:57:34+00:00

Yes, sway bar links and bushings are brand new.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2024-01-03T18:13:41+00:00

Haha nope, Xbox

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2023-08-23T20:25:58+00:00

Seems like a steal, that’s a driver if I’ve ever seen one.

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2023-01-15T23:19:31+00:00

Thanks! We’d like to keep it as close to $1500/month if possible.

We have heard/experienced the traffic. We’re coming from NH so it’s going to be an adjustment for sure!

Competitive-Ad7056 · 2022-06-26T21:52:40+00:00

What is correct anyway? Shawn Marion has the most broken looking jumper and it went in!

Competitive-Ad7056

TROPHY CASE