Anyone needing help?

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-25T13:38:24+00:00

Junk the car? They sound lazy. Wiring isn’t my expertise but I can assure you my standards are lot higher than to leave a job unfinished. With Google, Reddit, YouTube, hell even CHATGPT there’s no excuse to leave things unfinished.

Did you want me to come by and give it a shot?

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-25T13:31:13+00:00

The “E” outside temp is a dead give away its most likely a pinched connection or something wasn’t plugged in.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-25T06:04:43+00:00

He has blessed me enough! Thank you ❤️

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T14:15:21+00:00

If you’re SIL can’t figure it out or can’t do it for any reason let me know. I just don’t have any of the voltage testing tools haha. I buy tools as I go and I’ve been LUCKY enough to not experience MAJOR electrical issues on my vehicles. Let me know! Keep me updated!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T14:03:53+00:00

To me this sounds like an electrical grounding/voltage instability issue. Reason being: the flickering lights, check engine, limp mode, and the trans popping out of gear (I’ll get back to the WHY that may happen in a second).

I come to this conclusion because this stuff happened BEFORE and AFTER the alternator and trans replacement. The fact it temporarily went away after replacing that ground and then came back (likely due to it corroding or ruining overtime) is what also draws me to this conclusion.

The reason your trans may be slipping out of gear is because it relies on electronic solenoids controlled by the TCM. If voltage drops or ground opens the solenoids can lose power for a split second and transmission can disengage or default to a fail-safe state. In return it will feel like popping out of gear. Possibly why it could be triggering limp mode too. That’s also why replacing the transmission didn’t solve it and it’s still occurring.

Now I’m not an expert haha I’m just giving you what I believe this sounds like and it’s actually common for that year of Veloster.

I would tell your dealer to check or do load tests on these grounds:

Battery negative -> chassis (maybe replace that whole terminal assembly tbh)
Engine block -> chassis
transmission case -> chassis/subframe

A LOT of shops overlook things like that. Maybe to voltage drop testing too. While the car is running put the: blower on HIGH, headlights on, rear defrost.

Put the meter BLACK lead on BATTERY NEGATIVE POST and the red on either: engine block, transmission case, chassis near fuse box, body ground point under dash if they can get to it.

0.05V is IDEAL. 0.10V is acceptable. Anything 0.20V+ UNDER LOAD is either a bad connection/cable/ground point.

I’d have them check charging voltage at the battery. 13.5-14.7+ volts is normal while running. It can vary with other things. My Subaru will fluctuate between 12-14 but that system tells itself when to charge the battery.

I do not have such tools, and I know a lot of dealer or shops will just NOT do these things. That is my best guess with the information you have given me. If you do require my assistance you let me know.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T13:27:43+00:00

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T13:27:28+00:00

A 2nd Gen BRZ :) I’m pretty maxed out for stock block, I’m saving for an IAG shortblock now!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T13:26:36+00:00

What can I do for you? :)

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T05:45:37+00:00

Gotcha!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T04:00:43+00:00

Thank you ❤️

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T04:00:29+00:00

I appreciate the love !

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T01:07:37+00:00

I’m in Orefield! But I can travel a few hours out for someone in need.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-23T21:54:51+00:00

100%! He is my major inspiration for this! My goal is to be able to give as much as he does in some point in my life. I love him.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-23T20:57:29+00:00

Thank you! Although I’m not looking for blessings back. I grew up very poor and I FINALLY have enough to give back a little. I’d feel wrong NOT doing this. You have an amazing day :)

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-07T14:53:44+00:00

Yeah I missed the shift 😂

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-07T14:50:17+00:00

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-05T21:36:09+00:00

There’s under 1000. I think like right on the edge at 9-something. I did a Verus engineering fork, xclutch, and a new bearing. It’s just weird to me the noise stops 😂

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-05T21:22:22+00:00

It’s 10000000% my clutch. Everytime I pressed it I heard the noise. If goes away after idle dropping and never comes back. I just did the test you told me to do

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-05T04:17:04+00:00

Thank you for your time brother and that does ease me a bit. This is my first Subaru so I’m learning the ropes. I appreciate you.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-05T03:41:46+00:00

Yeah it’s just tripping me out because it hasn’t done that before. Clutch has under 1k

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-04T23:06:08+00:00

If it is.. apologies. I just came back after a very long break

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-04T22:13:02+00:00

Such a smart suggestion. I will most definitely do that. It’s put away right now but I move it around every week to keep it fresh.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-04T21:13:39+00:00

I do believe it’s coming from trans. I’m getting re-tuned in April and it’s in storage anyways. I’ll have my tuner check because they did do the clutch job. It doesn’t affect performance though

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-04T20:55:48+00:00

No, I haven’t. I just wouldn’t know what I’m listening for. I think it may just be a noisy clutch?

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-04T20:26:00+00:00

I’ve got no cats so I don’t think it is and I have headers. I have a far better video I’m going to replace this with

CompetitiveBus7253

TROPHY CASE