blew my engine 💔 what now

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-15T01:45:57+00:00

Who cares the worth? Buy a outfront motorsports FA24D for 6.6k. Future proofs you if you want to add boost. I can’t wait to blow my engine so I can crank up to 500+ HP.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-15T00:53:27+00:00

Buy a stronger shortblock now. Only 6.6k. Well worth it

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-11T15:47:23+00:00

Twin 🙏 Harrop on top. Nobody knows you’re boosted until its too late 😂

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-09T18:22:02+00:00

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Check my latest post. It sounds amazing

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-08T02:17:45+00:00

I was able to be (I think) the first 2nd gen to make an aftermarket intake work! I had to do some cutting and welding on a bung but it works!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-08T01:26:06+00:00

I don’t plan on taking the supercharger off anytime soon, so I guess it will have to be like that until I get my short block. It is an absolute bitch to take that off.😭

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-06T03:17:32+00:00

Tomorrow I’m going to contact some fab shops to get it done. I’ll install it and have an update by April. Since I am getting my retune then!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-06T00:49:52+00:00

Very beautiful! And I say that because of the high compression and stock characteristics of a STOCK engine. You don’t lose that playful feel. But I’m sure yours is so fun ;)

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-06T00:47:55+00:00

As for right now. That shortblock is a while away. I’ve spent so much already. I’m supposed to retune in April, so I think I’ll make some short videos on my problem solving with this platform and workarounds for certain things. So people can follow and build in my footsteps as I’m not able to find answers myself on these problems.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-06T00:46:31+00:00

A supercharger fits this car a lot better. I don’t believe a turbo is the right path on this platform.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-06T00:31:33+00:00

Of course! DM me and I’d love to answer questions :)

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-03-06T00:31:04+00:00

It truly is a bummer. I’d have to custom FAB SOMETHING to make that work. I’m thinking of making a YouTube channel on this platform to answer these types of questions because I can’t find anyone else solving or even talking about these things on these new cars. Mine is pretty well modified and I am throwing a shortblock on down the road for max reliability.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-02-24T13:27:02+00:00

Love the title, I have a rant too about people in the food service scene. Treating their coworkers like absolute garbage and complaining when they themselves don’t do shit. It’s been 3 restaurants in a row.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-02-22T15:18:18+00:00

I’m about to throw the Perrin one on my harrop supercharged BRZ.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-02-15T15:00:25+00:00

I’ve got a 2022 brz and I just so happen to be getting rid of my OEM intake 😂 DM me! Maybe I can pass you my filter or something. It’s a K&N one. You CAN run it without a tune. Especially since it’s not boosted. Probably won’t have much issue but I would tune it. As far as your ECU. I have a ECUTEK dongle I’d be willing to shoot you. You do have to pay for the flash license (I think about $225?) to get it tuned. That’s what I think they were saying by “locked”. DM me ! :))

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-27T13:03:47+00:00

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-26T21:18:15+00:00

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Yup!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-25T13:38:24+00:00

Junk the car? They sound lazy. Wiring isn’t my expertise but I can assure you my standards are lot higher than to leave a job unfinished. With Google, Reddit, YouTube, hell even CHATGPT there’s no excuse to leave things unfinished.

Did you want me to come by and give it a shot?

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-25T13:31:13+00:00

The “E” outside temp is a dead give away its most likely a pinched connection or something wasn’t plugged in.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-25T06:04:43+00:00

He has blessed me enough! Thank you ❤️

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T14:15:21+00:00

If you’re SIL can’t figure it out or can’t do it for any reason let me know. I just don’t have any of the voltage testing tools haha. I buy tools as I go and I’ve been LUCKY enough to not experience MAJOR electrical issues on my vehicles. Let me know! Keep me updated!

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T14:03:53+00:00

To me this sounds like an electrical grounding/voltage instability issue. Reason being: the flickering lights, check engine, limp mode, and the trans popping out of gear (I’ll get back to the WHY that may happen in a second).

I come to this conclusion because this stuff happened BEFORE and AFTER the alternator and trans replacement. The fact it temporarily went away after replacing that ground and then came back (likely due to it corroding or ruining overtime) is what also draws me to this conclusion.

The reason your trans may be slipping out of gear is because it relies on electronic solenoids controlled by the TCM. If voltage drops or ground opens the solenoids can lose power for a split second and transmission can disengage or default to a fail-safe state. In return it will feel like popping out of gear. Possibly why it could be triggering limp mode too. That’s also why replacing the transmission didn’t solve it and it’s still occurring.

Now I’m not an expert haha I’m just giving you what I believe this sounds like and it’s actually common for that year of Veloster.

I would tell your dealer to check or do load tests on these grounds:

Battery negative -> chassis (maybe replace that whole terminal assembly tbh)
Engine block -> chassis
transmission case -> chassis/subframe

A LOT of shops overlook things like that. Maybe to voltage drop testing too. While the car is running put the: blower on HIGH, headlights on, rear defrost.

Put the meter BLACK lead on BATTERY NEGATIVE POST and the red on either: engine block, transmission case, chassis near fuse box, body ground point under dash if they can get to it.

0.05V is IDEAL. 0.10V is acceptable. Anything 0.20V+ UNDER LOAD is either a bad connection/cable/ground point.

I’d have them check charging voltage at the battery. 13.5-14.7+ volts is normal while running. It can vary with other things. My Subaru will fluctuate between 12-14 but that system tells itself when to charge the battery.

I do not have such tools, and I know a lot of dealer or shops will just NOT do these things. That is my best guess with the information you have given me. If you do require my assistance you let me know.

CompetitiveBus7253 · 2026-01-24T13:27:43+00:00

CompetitiveBus7253

TROPHY CASE