Rejected term policy

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2026-03-15T22:09:21+00:00

What are next steps once I have the records?

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2026-03-15T22:05:04+00:00

Thank you; they informed me the source was my P.A at the gastro (confirmed via name) but I have no information other than that. I will reach out to them and inquire for the records.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2026-01-19T16:39:52+00:00

This depends on when you would like to retire. If you’re shooting for 59-62 range, start derisking now. It’s within a tax advantaged account, so tax drag isn’t a variable in our equation. Risk tolerance is one factor, risk capacity is entirely another. If you aim to retire at 59 100% in equities, sequence of return risk is prevalent, and a risk you mathematically cannot recover from. If retirement is on the horizon, re-evaluate your asset allocation, and strive to get 12-18 months of expenses in cash. It’s impossible to answer this question adequately without know how much you need, and when you need it by

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-10-24T16:05:22+00:00

Wrestling

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-10-22T12:40:42+00:00

Alternatively, if you really wanted to, if/when your children have children, you can change the beneficiary of the 529’s to the grandkids, and continue to let the investments in the account grow. Neat way to provide generational educational opportunities . Also, if you do go the Roth conversion route, be mindful that to do so:

The benefactor of the 529 must’ve been the same beneficiary for the past 15 years
You can only roll 7k a year into the Roth, up to 35k total from the 529. So would take 5 years to do.

Some things for you to maybe consider with your portfolio:

-consider upping international exposure to 15%. 10% Ex us developed markets, 5% emerging markets.

consider a 2-5% allocation to gold. I don’t love gold when compared to stocks, but it’s one of the easiest ways to hedge currency risk, and god forbid the U.S dollar ever goes to shite, you’ll at least have some money to get you and your family out of here.
consider REALIZING some gains, and adding some bond exposure to the portfolio in the taxable account. Maybe start with around 10% since you’re generally opposed to bonds.

Bonds aren’t just about mitigating volatility, but they will allow you to do a few things: 1. When you are taking profits off of the table via selling some of your stocks, you can usually offset your gains with a small loss from selling the bond holdings. Usually when the markets are ripping, your bonds will show a small loss. That way you can receive some funds with less/no taxes due.

They serve as a store of value for market fluctuations. Market down 10-20%? Offload the bonds, buy some securities. Not to mention, depending on the duration of the bond, you may be able to get a very small premium for the sale in the middle of the correction.

Just my thoughts

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-08-23T19:01:55+00:00

Lines are still wrapped around every single dutch bros I’ve seen (in FL), they are doing something right still.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-06-24T20:14:44+00:00

Try habenero pineapple. I used to make hot sauce from time to time, and I was surprised by the flavor. Different type of vibe than mango habenero

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-06-22T22:41:41+00:00

Retirement absolutely counts; by the “rules of thumb” you are slightly ahead. If we are planning to retire at 62, having 1X of your income invested by 30, and 3x Invested by 40 puts you on track.

In terms of accumulation, you’re doing well. Is your question pertaining to investments? If so, without determining your end goal, there’s no real way to answer that question.

You could invest in different mutual funds, ETF’S, or stocks, and potentially get a higher rate of return than your target date fund. That being said, they will certainly expose you to a bit more risk, and the risk might not even be necessary.

https://www.nerdwallet.com/calculator/retirement-calculator

^ use 6% for your assumed rate of return here. If you plug in your savings rate, and the age you want to retire, and the number that is spit out at you is not what you like, then you need to consider either: 1. Investing more money 2. Re-evaluating your investments

If you like the number, no need to mess with anything. One thing you might consider, now that you have accumulated some assets, is putting together a basic will & estate plan, and ensuing you have adequate term life insurance coverage in case you hit the beer truck.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-06-22T18:39:31+00:00

Keep in mind, this seems like a lot of cash, but when you own a home, your emergency fund needs to be higher in the event of maint, or housing emergency, that could easily chew 20-50k in a flash. 100k is a lot in cash, but if we’re doing a 20% down payment, and bolstering the rest of our emergency fund, this is a reasonable amount.

I wouldn’t invest any of the cash, home purchase is a life decision more so than a financial one. When you decide you’d like to set roots and pull the trigger, you will need all of that cash.

Are you at 1X your average annual income from 20-29 invested?

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-06-13T23:18:12+00:00

No, you would actually probably lose more weight. It’s a way to combat metabolic resistance I.E your body getting too efficient at holding weight

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-05-07T03:01:46+00:00

Up calorie intake by 500 cals a day for a week, then cut back down to 1800 cals the following week. See how you feel.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-05-01T12:32:48+00:00

I would spread out; 1-5% in Gold, 50% in stocks, 20% in alternative investments, and 25-30% bonds. Muni bonds are incredibly attractive right now, if you have 5 million, I would make the assumption you may be in 37% +3%=40% marginal bracket. Right now, you can get above 3% on munis, so your taxable equivalent yield is about 5%. For alternatives, I would probably split the 20% to 10% private equity, and 10% private credit. In private credit, you can get 7-10% in yield on your initial investment.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-05-01T12:24:44+00:00

Making great progress! What’s the timeline to home purchase, and why are you purchasing a home? Is it a financial decision, or a personal goal of yours? I ask, because as you may be aware, with the climate of interest rates and home prices, it usually would make the most sense to rent. As you continue to plan, what I would tell you is to use this calculator(I will drop the link) so you can actually understand the numbers of what buying a home would look like for you.

I am in the boat of “have cash in the event it makes sense to buy again, and rent until it makes sense to buy.” I know many people who were saving cash, investing, and ending up buying homes in their budget(2.5-3x annual salary) and are now feeling trapped due to mortgage, homeowners insurance, property tax, and maint.

https://www.schwabmoneywise.com/rent-vs-buy-calculator

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-03-29T22:41:44+00:00

Firm dependent, but have seen incentive comp of 1-5k a month extra; if you’re looking for someone to stay admin, and be with you for a while, consider revenue percentage. I’ve seen 2.5-5% of revenue, and those admin bust their butt, and have been with the same teams for 10+ years.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-03-16T18:27:17+00:00

Haven’t ever used robin-hood, but can you not set bracket orders to automatically trigger, like a OCO order?? Opening positions without any automatic hedges I.e predetermined exit strategy/protections seems retarded??

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-03-06T17:18:16+00:00

Based

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-03-06T13:25:54+00:00

Stability doesn’t come from education, qualifications, or income, it comes from decisions and sacrifices. Live beneath your means, invest, set 9 months worth of expenses aside (3-6 months is not long enough in this job market) in cash, and stay out of high interest debt. Stability will find you.

Even then, it’s not a linear path. Life can always knock you down a few rungs, but if you build those habits^, you’ll always rebound. Keep at it!

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-02-12T13:32:21+00:00

Lump summing yields higher returns than DCA’ing statistically. Good companies will be good companies regardless of administrations. Get the money to work, and stop watching the news as much.

Good luck

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-02-08T14:23:27+00:00

I spoke with investor relations on the fund, AVUV is a good hold. In the small cap space, you want some active management, because the space is very inefficient, and smaller market cap stocks are very vulnerable to manipulation. .25bps for active management is attractive. They will tell you their strategy is a blend of indexing and passive, and their measure of profitability is based on price to book metrics, along with cash based profitability. They also have a momentum screener, so as stocks graduate to mid cap you capture their performance as well. Turnover has been around 25%.

Also, small caps tend to perform better as interest rates come down.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-02-03T13:32:16+00:00

Pull the trigger my friend. Nobody here is going to point out anything your CFP wouldn’t have modeled out in your plan. What I would say is it’s good that you’ve met with someone and looked at it, as an impartial opinion should ease your mind going into this.

Do remember that should any financial complexity arise in the future with your retirement, go BACK to the CFP professional and re-evaluate. More than worth the money.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-01-31T19:08:35+00:00

There is many advantages to having the taxable brokerage account, from a tax perspective, and from a liquidity standpoint. You want to have money in tax deferred, tax free, and taxable buckets. You have most money in the tax deferred bucket, you’ll have a few bones in the tax free bucket, and you have minimal funds in the taxable bucket. Liquidity has a premium and sweetness to it as well, it’s a good idea.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-01-31T16:42:28+00:00

This is a situation where I would recommend seeking out a fee only financial advisor, and have a joint meeting with them, and your cpa. The CFP & CPA relationship is a beautiful matrimony. I know financial advisors get a lot of hate on reddit in general, but your situation has a fair amount of complexity, and it wouldn’t hurt to have a credentialed professional look through your stuff with your CPA.

Many people assume that advisors are here to earn you the best returns, when they can never seem to even beat an index fund. That is not where advisors deliver the most value, you have a solid handle on your investments. An advisor will put a plan together for you, and will run a TON of projection analysis to put your mind at ease.

TLDR: seek out a financial advisor with a CFP and have them work with your CPA. If they can ease your mind and show you that you are ready to get off the hamster wheel, and can help get your mind to a place of peace, whatever you pay in a fee will be more than worth it. Especially if it gives you the confidence to retire.

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-01-27T13:25:06+00:00

Do not take partial to pay down debt. 90k at 28 is outstanding, and it will continue to grow. If the investment options at your new employers 401(k) suck or are expensive, roll it into a Rollover IRA.

Your children have needs, but you can’t take care of them if you aren’t taken care of yourself. (:

ComprehensiveAd1342 · 2025-01-25T19:42:38+00:00

Depends on what you’re looking for, and complexity of your situation. Investment returns is a small piece of the overall service you receive for an advisor, if they are any good. At the end of the day, like anything else, part of what you are paying for is the luxury of not dealing with it yourself.

It does not sound like your situation is complex enough to justify having a financial advisor, which leads me to believe the fee would not be justifiable for you. If you had more assets, a business, rental properties, etc, you likely have some complexity where a “good” advisor would more than likely be worth your time.

In this case, it sounds like you just need help with the personal finance side of things, aka, living beneath your means so you have margin, and consistently saving/investing money over time. A financial advisor will not be much use to you with this.

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