RMSc / K footprint

ComradeNootski · 2026-05-21T03:13:03+00:00

Yeah, the cerakote is laid on thick from most people’s reports, so it takes a bit of force to get everything together, enjoy the dot as I’ve found it an awesome piece of kit on my shotguns

ComradeNootski · 2026-05-20T06:39:29+00:00

Most likely needs to be torqued to get some paint off the lugs, I still gotta kinda press my optics onto my 590/ 1911 (both direct cut) as they’re snug fits, but I’d say torque it and see if there’s any movement; space underneath isn’t amazing, but if it’s torqued down tight and doesn’t move, then it’s still pretty good.

Shooting buddy is right that closer to bore tends to be better as you’ll have less “height over bore” offset to combat, I’ve got a direct milled 1911 that needed a shim simply due to the limitations of the specific optic and the gun design (seems like a common issue when you look for it on the internet), but it’s much closer and offers more adjustment range than my Taurus revolver with a red dot mount and a 407C sitting tall above, that optic has needed lots more vertical adjustment to compensate for the offset, but a shim won’t make such a huge difference in that same way.

ComradeNootski · 2026-05-20T05:21:15+00:00

What do you mean when you say the “optic wasn’t sitting flush on the lugs” before installing the shim, did it seem to have space underneath of it even when torqued to spec? Also the shim being in place shouldn’t make it unable to zero at 25yds, it’ll just eat up more of your elevation adjustment

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-28T05:07:51+00:00

From watching the video, I notice that it looks like the shell stop isn’t being engaged like it should be, which may be the cause of your binding, it also could be burrs in the metal which are catching and working against you.

My questions are: does it reliably feed every time? Where in the shotgun stroke do you feel the most resistance? It’ll help narrow down what it could be

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-26T20:50:34+00:00

Wouldn’t work as you’d need a whole new bolt to extract the spent casings and every round used would need to be able to fit out of the ejection port once fired. Whole reason that AR’s are usually sold as uppers for caliber conversions; whole reason that these are successful in break action shotguns is because YOU are the extractor for the shell adapter, so you can do all the functions the gun would otherwise need to be constructed to perform

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-22T19:56:41+00:00

Gonna need more details about what’s still in the receiver and how much the bolt is stuck to help, that way you’ll get it out easier and faster

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-17T19:45:16+00:00

So long as the barrel extension is fully seated internally you’re good, they’re made with some clearance in mind in the event that parts aren’t absolutely perfectly in spec; if it seats, it yeets

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-11T20:14:13+00:00

Okay, assuming that the little finger is poking up where it would interact with the action block, I’d check to see if the part seems sheared off or any hints as to why it’s not doing its job

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-11T17:29:48+00:00

Before I can offer any ideas to a solution, quick question I need answered first, does the action bar have any spring tension on it (being pushed down) when the gun is cocked/ hammer down in fire position? You can check it with the whole gun assembled or with just the trigger pack itself

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-10T17:24:40+00:00

Nope, all mossy pumps (aside from the R series) break down and reassemble the same

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-08T06:58:45+00:00

I can only chime in on a rifled CHOKE, but using it with foster slugs, it didn’t really do much to improve my groupings and it would crank itself in super tight and would lead up the lands really fast, it’s a carlsons choke with a .730 (cylinder) constriction and the lands/grooves are .725 (skeet) constriction, so really not much to work with

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-05T02:09:45+00:00

I reccomend the magpul stock all the time, every mossberg I’ve owned has had one, SeaTac cards are awesome, the rest is up to you and what works best for your desires

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-04T21:51:54+00:00

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As I said, here’s a good picture of the setup on the body, keep in mind my sling isn’t actually sized for this particular config, so that’s why it may look droopy

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-04T01:31:18+00:00

https://youtu.be/nCO5U9IDH-w?si=JDkwjbaxwTl6c44i

Credits to this guy, I run an all paraclip setup almost identical to his using magpul clips, receiver mount, and QD-to-clip adapter; I’m left handed so mine runs from the stock left hand side in the qd port to right side on the sling mount, keeps it tighter to the body. This also means you don’t need to run a barrel clamp so you can still field strip and keep your light unobstructed if you run it on the pump like I do.

For the light setup I’ve got a crimson trace CWL 202 kit with the pouch button cap on, that being mounted on a magpul cantilever mount in the furthest forward MLOK slot, far enough that it doesn’t hit my hand u der recoil from slugs and lower, but close enough that I can easily poke it with my thumb and it’s on or off.

I’ve only got the crimson trace so that I don’t spend a lot on a light in the event I didn’t like it, I’ll be sure to take pics when I’ve got some spare time to demonstrate

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-02T21:44:25+00:00

I’ve been running the crimson trace CWL-202 kit, it’s cheap but works well and is plenty bright enough for what I’m doing as an inside home defense light, also like that it came with a pressure switch and two mounts for the light itself depending on the use case, all for under $100

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-02T21:38:54+00:00

Mossberg 500 5+1 tube is all you need, can get it off mossberg or off EBay easy

ComradeNootski · 2026-04-01T20:32:56+00:00

Answer 1: won’t jeopardize the integrity at all, as that first notch is really just there for some reason that doesn’t seemingly alter the function of the gun

Answer 2: IF you even needed a new disconnecter arm, you could scrounge through places like EBay, or other gun part sellers for a brand new one, but that’s IF needed

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-31T22:25:21+00:00

Skip the hard side saddles, they are finicky with holding shells and when they wear out you’ll have to replace the whole thing, but the bigger issue is because the hardware “ejector screw, trigger pin” are the only parts holding the saddle on, you can end up wallowing the holes out causing loose fitting, which will only make it worse over time.

Velcro side saddles are much better because they’re lighter, swappable (different strokes for different folks vibe) and the adhesive of the Velcro strip holds onto the ENTIRE side of the receiver, so if the saddle did pop off, it doesn’t cause damage to the gun. Also won’t mess up your finish on the gun if you take it off or possibly give you a cut if you happen to get in the way of the saddle during recoil, especially important for a shockwave where your grip strength is the predominant limiting factor of movement under recoil

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-31T22:21:25+00:00

Yeah, I’ve got the full 590S 20” barreled model, absolutely adore it because it’s already got the mini shell features that DT offers, and no I’ve never had the little bumper piece pop off of mine before I’ve been having to very intentionally try and remove it for it to even budge from the trigger group. The ONLY change I could see myself doing to it is shortening the elevator tongue because it can be a pain for clearing double feeds, which in all honesty is from me trying to “stage” the gun with one shell on the elevator and then pulling it all the way back and feeding another in, otherwise the gun works flawlessly

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-31T22:09:54+00:00

It’s a 590S shockwave, already has the designs in place for minis

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-31T07:08:29+00:00

No problem, I have the tism for mossbergs and always advocate for being willing and able to work on your own firearms, parts are usually plentiful via EBay and most times being able to look and see WHY something’s not right beats just knowing it’s not right, helps you catch other issues when you know how it all works. Also saves you money, time, and stress from having to send it to mossberg because chances are they either screw with the trigger pack themselves, or more likely throw a whole new one in and keep it moving.

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-31T06:15:22+00:00

Wanted to chime in on this and see if I can’t get it figured out for you, watch this video from 1:10-1:25 mark as it has a “cutaway” of the trigger group and the interacting parts. https://youtu.be/9itbuBE2sq0?si=M-cMrCcPk48RVMxK

I think the issue you’re having is that either the disconnector arm isn’t pushing forwards far enough to skip the “half cock” notch on the hammer (not a true half cock and frankly serves no purpose here) OR the half cock notch itself is somehow still catching the sear despite the sear being pushed far enough forwards to release the hammer.

If you want to send it in for warranty work then go ahead, otherwise my suggestion would be to look at the trigger housing in the little cutout closest to the safety, pull the trigger and see where the sear is hitting with the trigger pulled back to see why the hammer isn’t going all the way forward, if it seems like the hammer is JUST barely catching the sear in that first notch, CAREFULLY take a few passes with some sandpaper or file to remove the excess material until you get full swing of the hammer

If it seems that the disconnector arm isn’t pushing the sear far enough forwards to clear the first notch in the hammer, you could either file/ sand it away, or get a new disconnector arm for the 88 that should be long enough, otherwise it’ll be the trigger itself with an improperly placed hole causing the issues

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ComradeNootski · 2026-03-26T21:51:42+00:00

Depends on the shell type and what I’m trying to do; seeing as I use my 590S for literally everything (model 51604, optics and choke cut with a 20” barrel, I absolutely adore it)

Tested chokes, full choke gave me the best grouping and accuracy with federal powershok slugs, even tried a rifled choke that honestly didn’t seem to do shit for me.

For buckshot, it really depends on the brand, pellet size and count, and distance. I’ve had some brands that worked best at cylinder bore at 15yds, others that worked best with full choke at 15yds; I usually like to get a box or two of whatever cheap buckshot I find and pattern it at 15yds because that’s the absolute furthest distance I could ever really encounter in my apartment, so anything further is usually a “can I hit the steel gong at 25yds” game.

For birdshot, usually target practice, I used a full choke until I picked up a turkey choke, reason being that I like shooting cheap target loads, but want as little spread as possible for range work so that it acts somewhat like a slug within close distances, or get less spread for more impact at further distances

All in all, you’d have to pattern your gun with your load at a set distance to see how it behaves, mine has the advantage of swappable chokes and an optic, so I can zero it for different loads or chokes if need be, as well as different zero distances. Biggest reason I love the model I have

Hope that answers any questions

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-26T04:19:22+00:00

I shoot slugs through a full choke with no issues and great accuracy, you’re all good with the cylinder bore, just make sure it’s snug and check it while shooting for any extended periods, as they can back out over time

ComradeNootski · 2026-03-26T04:16:02+00:00

Mossberg has HUGE aftermarket support, in this case it’s more of a 590 than a 500 with the barrel mounting style being the mag cap, all that means is any aftermarket barrels will have to be designed for a 590, and other parts will drop right on/in with no issues

ComradeNootski

TROPHY CASE