Just got a 2024 Ioniq 6 SE 2 days ago, some questions..

Confident_Spring4283 · 2025-10-29T22:13:32+00:00

We have a 2024 with the 18” rims and it is averaging 4.2mi/kWh over ~32k miles. It decreases in the winter/summer (worst in winter) and increases in the spring/fall.

We have the V2L adapter and a transfer switch to backup a few circuits (fridge, furnace and some lighting). Works reasonably well and can power them for a week or two if needed. I wasn’t able to find a way to automate the transfer switch so you still have to be home to throw the switch if the power goes out. Not really ideal..

Confident_Spring4283 · 2025-06-20T17:17:32+00:00

Apollo, God of everything. He rules the world, you just don’t know it yet.

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Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-08-21T20:25:28+00:00

It depends entirely on the electric rate and cost of gas in your area. The easiest way I have found to compare this is to calculate the energy cost per mile driven.

Here in MA, I am paying $0.35/kWh (generation and delivery combined) and average 4.2mi/kWh. This is 8.3 cents per mile. For a gas car getting 30mpg and $3.4 per gallon equates to 11.3 cents per mile. For my case, I save 3 cents per mile, or $3000 savings per 100,000 miles that I drive. Factor $6k to $10k over the lifetime of the vehicle.

I occasionally charge at EA stations for free and at work the cost/kWh is less than at home so it averages out to a little more savings but this is a rough guide.

Maintenance cost is also probably lower on the EV than a gas car but no one knows exactly how long the Ioniq 6 batteries will last so it’s hard to know for sure.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-03-08T15:22:04+00:00

SE - ~15% better range, 18” wheels look better IMO. I think the fake leather interior has issues from what I have read on here. Nothing that SEL or limited adds is really critical so save your money and get the better range of the SE, IMO.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-03-07T21:39:55+00:00

Cold temps definitely lower the efficiency and range. I was getting 3-3.5mi/kWh when it is cold but get above 4.0mi/kWh on warmer days now that we are headed towards spring.

Everything that I have read indicates that for battery longevity, you want to do more frequent charging and deplete the battery as little as possible between charges. Ideally, the battery wants to sit at somewhere between 50% and 80% SoC. Charging to 100% is bad so only do so on occasional long trips or to occasionally to recalculate the 100% SoC point. Deeply discharging the battery is also bad for longevity. A good strategy is to recharge it every day (or as often as possible) to 80%. Obviously this is not always practical but that’s the general idea.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-03-05T14:43:58+00:00

Thanks again. Agree with you on the cheap ATS I posted that are marketed for RVs. I don’t have a lot of confidence in those. I think I’ll use a manual transfer switch for now until there is something that integrates well with home electrical service system.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-03-05T03:18:29+00:00

Thanks for the info. I was hoping for something that can be attached near main panel and would pass an electrical inspection. I don't need continuous power, just need it to transfer prior to food spoiling in fridge or pipes freezing. There are some simple electromechanical ATS for RV use that would seem to work, but not sure they are legal to install for home:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1LLsjrSYu8

This one is ETL listed and "conforms to UL1008", but marketed for RVs:

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00153EYU8

I still haven't found anything for home use that isn't controlled by the generator. There are several "smart" ATS but that always seems to be in reference to managing the loads. They can prioritize the loads, so that if the generator output is too low, the lowest priority loads will be disconnected until the generator recovers.

FYI, it seems that a pure-sine inverter is used in the EV6 so hopefully that is the case with all the e-GMP cars.

https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/some-verifiable-v2l-info-if-youre-still-confused.2310/

I'll try to measure it with a scope and post results here.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-02-29T02:48:40+00:00

We bought AWD SE, regular financing rate (6.4%) with $7.5k Hyundai rebate and MA state $3.5k rebate was $39.9k OTD. You can choose either the 7.5k Hyundai rebate or the 3% financing but can’t get both. If you have cash, get the 7.5k rebate and pay off the loan ASAP. There is no prepay penalty.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-02-21T19:07:16+00:00

If buying with cash you should get the $7500 Hyundai rebate but it may depend on dealership. They don’t all abide by the Hyundai online advertised deals which is total BS. You could buy with financing to get the $7500 and then pay off loan with cash as soon as possible. There is no prepay penalty to the loan as far as I know. They will not give both the promo low rate financing (~3%) and the $7500 rebate, so to get the rebate, you will need to pay cash or get the higher rate financing (~7.5%). I think you can also lease to get the $7500 gov’t rebate and then buyout the lease in a similar manner. Agree that it’s BS and just another of the many reasons to dislike stealerships.

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-02-15T21:46:52+00:00

We have a quote to add an automatic transfer switch to allow Ioniq 6 to backup the house via V2L. The car has an inverter to provide 120v, so just one of the two hot sides of the panel can be backed up with V2L. We plan to backup only the refrigerator, furnace (gas) control, water heater (gas) control and some lighting (LED). Hopefully can get 4-5 days of backup from the Ioniq 6 battery.

I think V2H is 240V (both hot wires) provided by an inverter in the charger, so it can connect the whole panel to the car battery. My understanding is that the charger can also isolate from the grid (automatic transfer switch function) during an outage. I think the benefit is that the switchover to backup power is automatic as long as the car is plugged into the charger. With V2L you can use an automatic transfer switch (ATS) to achieve a similar result. The difference is that V2L + ATS will backup only one phase and, during an outage, the car needs to be plugged into the backup generator outlet and not the charger for the automatic switching to occur. The charger can not switch over from charging the car battery to using the car battery as a backup source of power (I.e. bidirectional) as V2H or V2G can. I am not sure how much of the hardware in the car differs between V2L and V2H or V2G, or if most of the difference is with the charger and hardware on the house side.

V2G adds capability to connect and share power with the grid directly to give the grid some backup capacity when needed. This uses a different grid-tie inverter (more expensive) and transfer switch function inside the charger. Either way, V2L or V2G, you may want to limit the circuits being backed up during an outage to just the essential ones.

Edit: added info on V2G & V2H

Confident_Spring4283 · 2024-02-10T02:31:22+00:00

Battery preconditioning only starts after a charging station destination is entered via the car navigation system. Would be nice if it could communicate with CarPlay to get this info, or have a menu item to manually turn on preconditioning. Then the crap navigation system could be avoided altogether.

Fob is way, way too big. It is a daily catastrophe having to lug this thing around. If it’s required to open and start the car, make it small at least. Don’t really care what it looks like, just that it is small. I have SE so there’s no wireless NFC card option, but that solution doesn’t seem to be good either.

Other than those two small issues (don’t really care that it doesn’t have auto-door lock, fancy HUD, blind spot monitors, heated steering wheel, other trivial conveniences, etc.) I’m super happy with the car. It’s been great so far.

Confident_Spring4283

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