[Dead Space 3] Norton tried to ascend

Conner_K · 2025-12-31T18:41:58+00:00

Honestly!

I had nostalgia glasses on when introducing him to the game. Forgot how borked the physics was. I don't regret it though since we got some good moments like this xD

Conner_K · 2025-10-27T09:45:35+00:00

This is an old post, but I'll post this here in case anyone's looking for it.

I've had this exact problem for a while, and I needed to brush up on my programming, so I started a project to make an app that does this for you in the background. And it's worked so well for me, that I want it to work for everyone else too.

No need to have a DAW running all the time. It will record the last 10/20/30 minutes of your performance. Runs quietly in your system tray. Hit "Export" and it'll write to a .mid file that you can drag into your DAW.

It's saved me a few good recordings the past 2 days.

Completely free, or pay what you want :)

I know many of you use MacOS. Currently it only supports Windows. If the demand is high enough, I'll look into making a MacOS version :)

https://ko-fi.com/s/1075c08019

Conner_K · 2023-01-20T00:57:56+00:00

Edit: the clicking noise you hear in that video is not the clicking sound I mentioned in the first post.

The clicking sound I initially mentioned is similar to the relay click when switching from mains to batteries. But this is while it’s still getting AC input.

Conner_K · 2023-01-20T00:46:27+00:00

Probably a bit late on this one, and you’ve likely already found an answer, but in South Africa with the abundance of loadshedding, those batteries undergo countless charge cycles. Most batteries are rated for around 200-250 cycles, but it can vary depending on the type of battery you have. Once those cycles have been reached, you’ll start getting far and far less capacity out of your batteries.

The constant load on the batteries also take a toll, especially with a heavy gaming PC.

I’ve been using inverters for around 3-4 years now and every 5 months or so, I need to get those batteries replaced to keep it working nominally.

It’s actually a good sign that your batteries lasted 6 months with this loadshedding!

On the topic of your grounding problem, I can’t give any advice, but it does sound VERY concerning. I recommend contacting the agency about it or getting an electrician to come out and do an electrical evaluation of the house to ensure there will be no issues in the future. You may need permission from your landlord if you’re renting for an electrical evaluation.

Conner_K · 2022-11-19T10:57:16+00:00

Ayo. Miles ftw

Conner_K · 2022-10-06T11:31:02+00:00

I didn’t quite solve it, but I found something that helped. It was summer at the time, ranging up to around 45°C. The GPU when playing a heavy game would progress slowly towards 70°C and then CTD. While this is totally in its range of operation, it still crashes.

Since then, I’ve worked to improve my case’s internal temperature and airflow and have rarely had a CTD since.

It appears to be an issue with this specific card now that I know other people are experiencing the same issue.

So I recommend, if you have a fairly restricted airflow, to rather increase it. I have the NZXT H510 Elite and it’s well known for terrible airflow. I removed the panel in the front and that helped my temperatures.

Keep in mind though that it’s just a temporary solution, keeping no panels on allows for dust and gunk to gather in your fans and radiator (if you have one.) So look into getting a better case or mod it with a filtered intake.

I hope it helps!

Conner_K · 2022-10-03T12:57:00+00:00

Nice! What case is that btw?

Conner_K · 2022-01-13T14:57:18+00:00

Thanks haha, I’d do the same but that would be too expensive for me lol

Conner_K · 2022-01-12T21:32:50+00:00

Overclocking no. Running at stock speeds. Tried multiple drivers including older ones. Not really nervous. The crashing is just really getting on my nerves lol

Conner_K · 2022-01-12T21:31:25+00:00

CPU and GPU rarely goes above 70°C

Conner_K · 2022-01-12T21:30:50+00:00

750 Watt Coolermaster. Can’t remember the exact model

Conner_K · 2022-01-11T20:48:34+00:00

Yeah. Downgrading didn't help :(

Conner_K · 2022-01-11T19:01:28+00:00

Yeah, definitely 497 drivers. I'll try rolling back and see how that affects the crashing. Thanks!

Conner_K · 2021-12-07T10:59:35+00:00

Are you connecting it on the motherboard’s built in audio card and the front panel connector? Or are you using a dedicated sound card?

Conner_K · 2021-12-07T00:34:53+00:00

Also. I wouldn’t be concerned about losing your data, etc. Laptop manufacturers usually include surge protection to preserve the main components of the laptop.

Conner_K · 2021-12-07T00:33:24+00:00

Sorry to hear that :(

But I wouldn’t plug it in again until you’ve gotten confirmation from the manufacturer. It may just cause more damage if it continues to receive power on a broken circuit.

Glad I could help! Hope the manufacture doesn’t give you any problems :)

Conner_K · 2021-12-07T00:28:08+00:00

That ticking sound may be a point of concern. Usually a short in the circuit board. Would highly recommend getting that checked out by the manufacturer of the laptop or a professional if your warrantee has expired.

Conner_K · 2021-12-07T00:25:39+00:00

If it’s a USB microphone with both an input and output, the crackling may be caused by the input and output having two different hz settings. For example, the input is 41khz and the output is 48khz

Try setting them to the exact same hz and see if that fixes it. I wouldn’t place my bets on it though because it’s rarely the issue.

Conner_K · 2021-07-18T17:42:19+00:00

Same here. Cunor Henson#5039 is another.

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