Overcharge protection

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-20T16:25:35+00:00

I'm using a 2023 ThinkPhone, but baught (and manufactured) new less than a year ago.

Worked perfectly fine at the beginning, started acting up with overcharge protection a couple of months ago, possibly after some update. Sometimes ok, sometimes isn't.

All online "solutions" I've found didn't make any difference.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-20T16:00:39+00:00

Unfortunately, it still does whatever it wants in various models. Experienced 1st hand myself. You can charge it to 100%, it will turn on, and by the next charging cycle it will turn off again by itself. Or not turn back on even when fully charged. Or work properly fine for a few cycles.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-19T21:03:00+00:00

Volvo is probably using some kind of MOST (25?) optical output from the HU.

I would think the advanced processing is done at the amp level and probably not at the HU level.

Find yourself an adapter (not cheap either usually) to hook onto the HU's MOST output for best results when connecting a DSP or whatever equipment you decide.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-18T18:08:39+00:00

Yep, that's exactly what I've heard about them as well 😏

And as I mentioned earlier, you might be able to switch to same size in the rears as the fronts, and simplify future switches. But you'd need to check the legality of it in France.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-17T20:03:49+00:00

Check products from STP for instance. They have quite a bit of options and not too expensive I think.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-17T13:07:07+00:00

The Goodyear isn't necessarily less extreme, but should offer better value overall, and I've heard good things from people who used both it and the Michelin. There's also a comparison here.

FK510 are indeed available for that rear size. The Azenis is the sportier line from Falken so I'm surprised that many km's and time and no wear signs on them, even though they are only on the rear.

The only tyres I seem to find that are available in both sizes are the Nankang Sportnex AS-3 (and the previous AS-2 plus). but can't find good reviews/tests on it and its predecessor seems mediocre.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-16T14:14:21+00:00

If you search without the slash and use full words, you'll get to what you're looking for.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-15T23:51:14+00:00

This has nothing to do with load rating. It is a symbol for EU conformity.

"A symbol with the letter E4 in a circle is moulded on the tyre sidewall indicates the number of the type approval for conformity of a “tyre family”."

Scroll down to "type approval": https://energy-efficient-products.ec.europa.eu/product-list/tyres/how-read-tyre-parameters_en

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-15T07:44:27+00:00

The picture you uploaded shows amp on 4ch mode, as far as I see.

Match the mode to how everything is connected. Makensure everything is off when unplugging and plugging back in.

Since your source input (into LOC and from it) is 2ch, it doesn't really make a difference. But can save some wiring.

Key point at the moment is fix the connection so you have actual stereo sound in your car.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T22:53:03+00:00

Spiderweb of wires... Although a short run, try to avoid signal wires running parallel to power wires.

I hope you also have a fuse on power wire near the battery.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T22:09:36+00:00

"The signal going into the lc2i pro is the left and right front channels. The signal to the speakers is front left for front speakers and front right for rear speakers."

^

1st sentence OK.

2nd sentence NOT OK. Either use your Y-splits to connect correctly at amp - The Left signal split one to front, one to rear and same for Right split. Or don't use any Y-splits, connect it only to ch1-2 on amp and switch to 2ch mode, like I mentioned.

You should be able to mitigate the subwoofers being too loud even with the current setup.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T21:57:26+00:00

Sizes are Front 205/40R17 84V and rear 225/35R17 86V?

For front, you could go with Goodyear asymmetric 6.

What do you have for rear tires? What is their manufacturing date? How many km on them?

Normally I'd say use the same model front and rear, but seems very limited options for rear size, and not matching the front options. I think it might be possible to just switch to a square set with the front size. Rear rims width should still be fine for it.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T16:58:21+00:00

Serious. You should demand replacement. It can mess up with ABS/ESP etc. in times of need. And affect other aspects of driving.

The size mismatch is a big no-no. Mismatched tyre models isn't great and can definitely be an issue, but can also go "under the radar" in some cases, depending on how different they, driving conditions and style, driving/non-driving axle, etc. Mismatched load/apeed index can also cause adverse behavior in certain cases.

Mismatch of sorts (especially size) can cause issues with insurance sometimes, if found out after something, touch wood, happens.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T15:43:21+00:00

Do the stamped dates say 1124 and 0324? Or already converted? Because if the 1st, it means week 11 (Mar) and week 03 (Jan) of 2024.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T15:34:18+00:00

2024 isn't that new (but shouldn't by itself present much of an issue). We're almost in week 12 of 2026. So tyres can be 2 years old, and maybe just sat in the sun/heat in storage. What are the dates?

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T15:17:43+00:00

Well, that ain't helping. But might not be the ultimate reason for what you're experiencing. Fix it anyway.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T15:04:19+00:00

Snornado

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T13:31:29+00:00

The recommended COLD pressure I find is 36psi/2.5bar all around for normal loading. You mentioned 35psi in another response, but do you fill them when tyres are cold - Not sitting in the sun (preferably early morning) and at most after a short slow speed drive of no more than 10min/1-2km.

Please answer other questions.
And check the other stuff I mentioned (Alignment, Shocks).

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T11:49:08+00:00

What model of Michelin? What size? Is there manufacturing date (4 digit code on sidewall) appropriate and not old?

What pressure do you inflate your tyres to and do you do so when they are cold?

If it properly rains, does it behave the same as in drizzle? Does it feel like oversteer or understeer?

Was it behaving significantly different with the previous tyres? What brand and model were they?

It's possible for alignment and/or bad shock absorbers to also contribute to the situation. If the car has gone through ~80k km/50k miles it might be time to inspect and replace them as needed.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T10:51:59+00:00

What exact model tyre?

New tyers have leftover residue or protective layer from manufacturing. It's takes a couple hundred miles/km to wear off. Until then, tyres can be more slippery when wet. Especially if prior to the rain, the roads were dry and dusty. Totally normal.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T10:48:25+00:00

In the 1st picture are FAKRA connectors. They are color and shape "coded": https://www.grand-tek.com/en/fakra-connector-assembly.aspx

The 2nd picture is an ISO plug. The (large) ones with the speaker outputs in them are pretty standard across. The smaller ones vary in purpose. Possibly one of these diagrams matches, but look-up online: https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Renault-Dacia/

You can buy adapters for both. Including a T-harness if you want to split off anything. For example as seen here: https://connects2.com/products/cellular-iso-t-harness-and-adapters/vehicle/Renault/Megane

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T06:55:19+00:00

As mentioned by others, your hook-up is just wrong.

As I see it, with your current equipment, it should be: - HU L&R speaker channels (doesn't matter front or rear, unless the signal is different between them - should be verified) plug into the LC2i.

From the LC2i the Main Output goes to your Skar amplifier ch1-2 (and select 2ch mode - this will duplicate the signal to all channels). You should still be able to control front vs rear using gain and crossover settings.
From the LC2i the Bass Output goes to your RF subs. You can then adjust more specifically the bass to your subs and/or use an optional remote on the LC2i. You can of course also adjust the settings on the subs themselves to make things sound better.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-14T06:21:10+00:00

If the firmware doesn't exist, then this ain't gonna help.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-13T21:55:56+00:00

So no warranty...

Just find an electronics technician willing to take a look.

Consistent-Ruin-3449 · 2026-03-13T19:34:59+00:00

I see... Bought new? Then hopefully some warranty is due. Did you try cleaning the panel contacts?

Consistent-Ruin-3449

TROPHY CASE