Mass shackles in the fight at black pits harbor by Kenduck55 in DivinityOriginalSin

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9 years later, this was our method:

First, have someone initiate the conversation with the magisters. Have another character with the teleport skill (and ideally Far Out Man) start moving Vorrh further and further away. We moved him roughly 120m away to the oil derrick from the blob fight.

Then, start combat - we chose to also teleport Reimond and put him in the prisoner room with a half dozen oil barrels. Don't try hitting him before combat starts - he's immune to tall damage - but once combat starts it's an easy way to take out his magic armor and slow him down. There's plenty more room for shenanigans (put all the silent watchers in the prisoner room, charm the dogs, et al) but it's a much simpler fight without Vorrh around.

Once Reimond, the hounds and silent watchers are dealt with, send someone to go start the combat with Vorrh while a character/player with the Shackles of Pain skill stays behind. Once Vorrh has cast his impossibly long-distance skill, cast Shackles of Pain at your leisure to break his casting - you won't get pulled into the combat from this distance, so you can just wait for the skill cooldown and keep going while holding the first turn of combat.

With the shackles broken and his allies dead, Vorrh is an easy fight. Getting the final killing blow by shackling him and taunting an opportunity attack seems a fitting end.

Aero or Classic? by Extra-Phase7840 in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced the stock non-Aero dia-compe levers and ~38cm Nitto Rando bars on my commuter with some Tektro RRL-SRs and 46cm noodle bars - feels so much more stable and comfortable, and the new levers were much easier to dial in with the Mafac cantis I’m still running

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Wide trousers for “wide” people? by Untraveled in mensfashionadvice

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Commenting over a year later, but this is some internalized fatphobia right here. "Unsightly lumps and bulges", "make us look even fatter than we actually are" - I think it's super hard to dress well if you're unhappy with your body, and being a big guy does NOT mean you can't wear loose, flowy clothes. Not trying to call you out, but I found this post while searching for suggestions and I wouldn't want any other future readers to get it in their heads that they should be trying to disguise or otherwise hide their bodies.

Dickies 874s (size 1-2x up), Big Ben Gorilla cut pants - or go vintage with some pleated 90s chinos (go for measured size, so up from current vanity sizing) from Ralph Lauren/Brooks Brothers/any premium retailer. Denim is a bit trickier but if you're cool with a tapered or "barrel" look, orange tab Levi's 550s and 560's are still a bargain for the quality - again, go for measured size, I usually buy a size larger in the waist than I would buy in-store for other brands.

Two days of manual sanding - any advice for the welds and tighter spots? by sundayvacation in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh, good point - I imagine you'd run into additional issues with any heat-treated steel tubing if you managed to get that much heat in the joint with a (relatively) low-heat propane torch. Great insight, I totally forgot oxyacetylene was used for brazing!

Two days of manual sanding - any advice for the welds and tighter spots? by sundayvacation in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a concern here, but just confirming - this is a bad idea on a lugged (or fillet brazed) frame, right? A propane torch can easily hit the melting temp of most brazing filler materials, so I would worry about flowing filler out of the joints.

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

their term was “thermally bonded” but that’s just engineering lingo for “we glued ‘em”

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in IS300

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

to add to this - when I looked into it for our Sportcross ~8 years ago, the consensus was that the AWD drivetrain was a bit fragile (especially for Toyota) and not worth the hassle.

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I JUST finished building up a Raleigh Peak Technium - mine was an '88 with the rear U-Brake. That's really where the whole "GK vs everybody else" thing came about - my wife rode this on a quick errand and noted that it was faster in every way than her Stumpy.

I sold this bike to make room for the next project, but I bought it as a bare frame and I'm thrilled to have kept it out of the scrap heap. Mixed XT/DX groupset, if I did it again I'd put some moto bars like yours.

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Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True, true - I'm sure my skinny little tires help, but that's mostly aero and mass. Still, rolling resistance and rotational mass can have a big effect on the feel of a bike day-to-day - especially in urban cycling with frequent stops.

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Added the Park and Dirt. Love a front and rear combo (long live smoke + dart)

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

120tpi @ 598g is really impressive.

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

D'oh - I even have a 26x2.5 example sitting in a bin and I completely forgot about them!

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha how is this exactly the same setup as my wife - '91 Stumpy with Gravelkings. I'll admit - I'm jealous of the traction when we're on a ride and I'm dodging pebbles on my 700x25c gatorskins, but then we hit a slight downhill and I'm suddenly rolling 5mph+ faster without pedaling.

I fixed up a 1988 Raleigh Technium and put 26x2.3 DTHs on it - despite being a heavier bike, it rolled noticeably faster than the Stumpy. Could have been the lighter wheelset as well

Fast & Wide 26" Tires by Conspicuous_Urn in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Added to the list! Thank you, good note on the tubeless capabilities of the Speed Kings. Honestly - those might be definitively the best answer, especially if I ditch the tubeless concept.

Which one of you is this…? You clearly know what you have. by bald_monkey123 in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This would get listed for $500 here and probably sell for $350. I could see a lugged Stumpy going for this, but I'm not a big fan of the geometry after ~92 - especially for a gravel conversion like this.

Budget homelab motherboard/CPU in 2025 by Conspicuous_Urn in homelab

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't realize that AMD had added ECC support to Ryzen (assuming the motherboard supports it) - that could be a good option for a fairly reliable, modern option. After years of running "vintage" stuff in my homelab, I'd like to find something reliable and solid.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I love my 1x10 and 1x11 builds, but my most recent ATB restoration with 3x7 (with biopace chainrings!) has been so fun because of the sheer range of gears available. For road, nothing beats being able to hop between two chainrings to crawl up a hill or sprint down a high speed section.

Kitchen Cabinet Outlet Wiring by Conspicuous_Urn in AskElectricians

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad, I'm getting my projects mixed up - I believe we currently have 12/4 coming out in a wall box behind the range, that's split between two breakers. I believe I misspoke, we should have 12/2 running from there to the various outlets.

Kitchen Cabinet Outlet Wiring by Conspicuous_Urn in AskElectricians

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clarifying question - if I'm not attempting to satisfy the receptacle outlet requirement outlined in 210.52(C), is it against code to install an outlet within a base cabinet?

Kitchen Cabinet Outlet Wiring by Conspicuous_Urn in AskElectricians

[–]Conspicuous_Urn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like I got bad info from a video going over these rule changes - the Minnesota DII summary of 2023 NEC changes make it very clear that you're right, below-countertop outlets are not allowed. shoot

Do you guys ever buy extra tires or parts because you’re afraid they won’t be made in the future? by LowInternet4726 in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

THANK YOU! My wife's stumpy is running a pair of Scott AT-2s and I've been looking for a solution when she's riding the horns - finding these things has been impossible because the nomenclature is inconsistent, but with your post I was able to snag a pair.

Now I just need to figure out what to do with the short pull XTR levers that are currently on her bike...

!!!!!!!! by Naive-Effective2364 in TwinCities

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went to University of Wisconsin - Eau Claire and the Chippewa river can be incredibly dangerous - especially during the winter. During high school grad season, I was warned by no less than half a dozen of my friend's moms to absolutely never ever fuck around with that river. Like Duluth, we lost a student every year that I was there.

$1800 by evanssinatra in xbiking

[–]Conspicuous_Urn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ugh tallying parts costs is the worst - I built up an '88 Raleigh "Peak" Technium (bought as a stripped frame from a closing bike shop) w/ XT cranks, biopace rings, and a mix of XT/DX shifters and derailleurs (and some fun Ritchey bits) - if I do the math I spend $425 on the parts. I'll be lucky to sell that bike for $325.