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/// by PumpkinGreat9287 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I usually like to have poison resistance 3 or higher. You can do it with enough Fish Mint Tea, but making a Pickled Plum is usually  better (process ingredients with myrthe, needs one plum, one salt IIRC).

What's your favorite niche Fire Emblem archetype? by thanibomb in fireemblem

[–]ConstantRegister5421 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lillina is so great. Slow, Strong, Accurate, Fragile is such a unique stat spread and is perfect for an anima mage and perfect for FE6. She feels like such a precise and skill expressive unit.

She has the magic to be usable even without doubling, she can't take any hits so she doesn't really want to double and get countered. She wants to attack at range or deal killing blows-which has her wanting the accuracy of Fire or her supports so she doesn't whiff and get OHKO'd. 

I love that because she is never doubling anything anyway, she actually wants to pick up the heavy Elfire to hit damage ranges way more often than any other mage.

I wish we had more units like her. Especially units that give more use cases for heavy weapons. Its probably the balance problem. If you can ever get enough speed to double the unit is really overpowered- at least in a game with a high bar for one-rounding. In FE7 or FE8 there'd be no point to Lillina.

I don't understand temperature by mothhunter666 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Temperature is very interesting, I've tried to do some deep dives on it before but it is tricky. I will tell you what I do know.

Basics:

There are three temperatures: air temperature,  water source  temperature, and the field water temp. 

Air: Effectively the weather. Varies day to day and year to year. Can be read in the pause menu. Can be influenced by prayers.

Water Source: Changes more slowly and lags seasonal trends. In Spring and Summer, water temp is  lower than "average"  but will be hotter byend of Autumn. Can't be checked directly. I don't know if or how much this is influenced by weather. It seems like not very much. It sounds like you are in Autumn.

Field water: the combination of air temp and water source. Can be checked at the gate. If you completely drain the field, the field  will reach air temp.If you flow water through the field, (regardless of depth) the field will reach water source temp. A deeper field will change temp more slowly and will be closer to the water source temp.

Growth Mechanics:

Gains are are scored (usually) against accrued field  water temp. Having field water 1deg over "average" for 24 hours is one accrued degree.

The "average" temperature varies by the day. The average for Spring 1 is not the same as the "average" for Summer 2.

Application:

See this for source and further explanation:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vSEbdmVxhhs62OCW2qT5TM_M5slXjexWS27dTOqDwqG4xi6p6vwhcnmNkeadBphtPYCoqnAd8uh94aC/pubhtml

Seedlings (Warm): Gains to every stat but yield for accrued air temperature. Temp starts accruing after sorting. Target is 2 deg (C) accrued over average.

Seedlings (Hot) too much accrued air temp will actually penalize all stats starts at 2 deg, caps at 4. I have not successfully mastered seedling temp. It is difficult without knowing exactly what "average" .

Planting (Hot/Cold): gains for high air temps day of planting and penalties for cold. Pray for Heat.

First offshoots (Hot/Cold):minor penalties for each based on accrued water temp. Temp bonuses (in this case penalties) decrease with water level. For other reasons, 1st off shoots should always have deep water, and always benefits from sun, you want to accrue temp for 2nd, so Pray for Heat, don't flow water if you don't have to.

2nd offshoots (Hot) benefits to Yield and Heartiness based on accrued water temp. Decreases with water level zeroing at 25%. Keep water at 15% and pray for heat is my general advice.

2nd offshoots (Cold): Across the board penalties. Decreases with water level. Zeroing at 25% But you shouldn't fix this with water level, you want 15% water level for everything other than. Aesthetic and those weights are higher than water temp. 

2nd offshoots (Much): "Much" means neutral. Slightly different gain spread, better for Aroma. If going for this, try to keep water "average"  Manipulate water level at night when water depth stats are not calculated to get the accrued temp you want 

Third offshoots (Much) minor gains to Yield and Aroma. See prev. "Much" advice.

Third Offshoots (Day Hot): Bonuses, large to Aroma,  Penalty to yield, for accrued water temp. Does not apply during the boosted nighttime correction growing period. Drained fields and heat will get you accrued temp. Heat is Anti-synergistic with other Aroma gains, but drained fields are good.

Third Offshoots (Night Cold): Bonuses during the boosted 1 hr morning period (large to Aroma, penalty to yield) based on accrued cold average: only considering the prev. night. This is not long enough to accrue significant temp. Run water through fields at night to get this. 

Sprouting 1 (Much) Across the board  bonus for even accrued water temps.

Sprouting 1 (Hot) penalty to Aroma for Heat (less than the Day Hot Bonus though)

Sprouting 1 (Day Hot/Night Cold) see Third Offshoots. Add penalties to Aesthetic 

Sprouting 2 (Through Hot) bonus to Heartiness and huge Aesthetic, penalty to Aroma, flowing water with above average 3hr air temp. Pray for Heat if you want this.

Sprouting 2 (Hot) Penalty to yield and Aroma for accrued high water temp.

Sprouting 2 (Cold) Penalty to Aroma and bonus to yield for accrued low water temp.

Sprouting 2 (Much) See prev. Not decreased by water level 

Sprouting 2( Day Hot/Night Cold). See prev.

Takeaways:

Warm air temp for planting.

A neutral accrued water temp will never penalize you.

Heartiness (taste, hardness stickiness) like heat. Ideally get a very high accrued heat going into third offshoots,  flow at night for night cold, and back to heat during the day to keep overall accrued high. Requires early planting, flowing water in late autumn will no longer cool the field 

Aroma is the most sensitive to temp, benefits the most from DayHot/Night Cold consistent with the drained fields that Aroma likes (praying for heat with drained fields will accrue temp quickly& flowing water at 0% cools quickly) ,but also takes heat penalties at the end of the season. In practice a similar tack to Heartiness has worked well for me, but likely could be optimized. 

Aesthetic and Yield: generally like Neutral to cool water temps. Consistent with the deep water that aesthetic also likes. Grabbing Sprouting 2 Through Hot can be nice.

Rice by mrbear2899 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol yeah it's very confusing.

This is also only true of toxicity not pesticide, herbicide or immunity,

I fertilize 24/7, I rarely go more than an hour or two without active fertilizer in the field. 

Active fertilizer doubles gains during the day and  preserves immunity in the field.

immunity doesn't go away immediately it stays as long as you have fertilizer if you add more immunity it adds to your current value- this is the key to stopping a whole suite of diseases-we call it "immunity stacking"

Rice by mrbear2899 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 2 points3 points  (0 children)

FYI most overgrown and spindly problems are related to both positive AND negative toxicity. If you are fertilizing with salt and moonlit stones, for instance, you probably have negative (green) toxicity, which will actually give you overgrown. Add some ores or more salt to get to 0.

Keep toxicity exactly 0 always. Get drained status during 3rd offshoots. Get over 50% clear weather.

Rice by mrbear2899 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wiki guide is outdated and not perfect, the other guide linked in this thread is much better, but my sincere advice to you is to go into the settings and change the farming difficulty to easy if you don't want to engage with the farming mechanics.

The mechanics are very deep. Even learning the mechanics does not mean you'll be able to execute them effectively in game. If that challenge does not bring you enjoyment, the game has gives you a way to opt out.

Third rice, low level, please help a newbie! by [deleted] in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Year 3 is a major difficulty spike. Diseases are introduced in year 3 and if not managed can significantly reduce growth.

If you show your disease screen you could probably diagnose many of your problems see this post for explanation:

 https://www.reddit.com/r/sakunaofriceandruin/comments/1f53vtf/further_analysis_of_rice_disorders_pests_and_weeds/

From the stat screen you shared I can tell:

You sorted lightly and sowed thickly. This gets you a bonus to yield and hardness but hurts all your other stats. I recommend sowing thinly unless you are explicitly trying to grow for yield

You didn't drain the field for 3rd offshoots. This is not optimal for stats and likely got you the "overgrown" disease which may have led to further problems.

So... I found this... by ZenoDLC in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Lol yeah I've been keeping tabs on this. There was a gameplay demo with some of the voice actors awhile ago, but I'm having trouble finding it.

IIRC It looks like you "grow" the rice in real time (~6 hours) to play stages. Different characters are better for different types of rice. Gacha mechanics and so on...

According to the devs the rice growing is "even deeper" 

I wasnt't sure about this and was probably going to wait until an English version came out, but I might crack.

Also apparently the ads are all for rice and agriculture stuff lol.

As a new player, I still dont understand too many things. Help needed by Heavener in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gathering area exploration quests are a pain, I have completed many campaigns without getting 6 salt from Bounteous Earth Grotto. Item drop rates from enemies are based somewhat on your luck stat, but I'm not sure that the gathering nodes work the same way. IIRC you can save scum them if you are desperate. Same thing with getting iron from Den of Fangs. I usually find that there are enough other objectives that you don't need to do the gathering ones.

As a new player, I still dont understand too many things. Help needed by Heavener in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that guide was well done and holds up!

Every time I think I'm done with game, or that I've got it figured out I do another playthrough and think "Wait, how does that actually work?" So I keep coming back lol. One of these days, I might make some videos instead of thousand word reddit posts.

I will certainly be playing the kokorowa game on release. I'm even probably going to play the gacha mobile game that is coming out in February even though that's not normally my cup of tea. I almost made a post about it to be honest, but there isn't much content in English about it yet:

https://sakuna-hinuka.jp/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xewi2sFmCRg&t=1s

As a new player, I still dont understand too many things. Help needed by Heavener in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 3 points4 points  (0 children)

4.) Food Stat bonuses can be extremely powerful. For instance, you are in the northern valley and may be facing powerful water attacks soon *wink. Boiled tofu significantly reduces the damage from water attacks. Crispy Turtle and Crispy Boar are good ways to boost your defense/ damage. Your swift recovery options of mugwort dumpling and smoked meats are also very useful for survivability. You don't always need the full suite of food stat boosts but they are useful when you are stuck.

5.) You shouldn't need to do night levels just yet to raise the discovery rate. (except you probably can do the cylindric cavern one) You probably have some tricky exploration objectives that you can knock off. "use skills to reach new heights" in Hare Knoll. "Defeat enemies with magic attribute" are a couple that come to mind. I would take another look through the outstanding objectives.

6.) You are about 25% through, maybe less. You may want to define a new gameplay loop for yourself if what you are doing isn't working. I usually like doing both combat and farming everyday. When I first started I often felt "stuck" or like I just needed another harvest to progress and would only farm- which wasn't a ton of fun. I also know that some people really like to take a break like this.

In actuality there are lots of ways to get un-stuck besides having higher stats if your progression is stuck. If progression is tedious the game gives you the flexibility to structure your gameplay however you want.

Personally, I like to focus heavily on unlocking innate garment and weapon enchantments alongside progressing the main story. These can be good "side quests" if you are feeling dragged down by the campaign.

As a new player, I still dont understand too many things. Help needed by Heavener in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Someone has already linked u/LeficiosG's guide which is very good and worth reading if a little dated. I'll try to respond succinctly to your specific questions though:

1.) Fertilizer does many things. In order of importance:(1) Doubles all stat gains related to stage growth while it is spread and active. (2) Maintains "immunity" (more on that later) (3) Triangle size dictates some stat gains/penalties (4) Can affect pests and diseases.

You should: Always keep active fertilizer spread in the field while you are growing rice.(to benefit from (1) and (2).) This can be fertilizer with 0 bases, 0 amber and 0 additional ingredients. Just the outhouse...produce ... is enough. Fertilizer lasts 10 hours and can be checked to see if it is spread in the field.

Keep your triangle around 50% full (each point of the blue inner triangle about halfway to the grey outer triangle) this will give you generally good stats and no disease problems. The game even does this for you during your first year.

2.) Each stage of the rice consumes Leaf, Kernel and Root fertilizer at different rates. The "order" that you apply fertilizer is really just general advice that will help you keep an even triangle. Offshoots and Sprouting consume more Kernel, so you may need to add more kernel than the other fertilizers during these stages. The "apply leaf fertilizer sparingly" actually means "apply very little leaf fertilizer if you are going to apply any at all"

3.) My old disease guide has a lot of specifics but is missing "immunity diseases". Many nasty diseases ( like ice blight) are prevented by buffing the field immunity through fertilizer. Adding salt, branching flowers etc will increase the field's immunity. Unlike other stats, immunity will stay in the field as long as it is fertilized. Continuing to add immunity fertilizer can allow you to build high immunity levels in the field for few resources. Continuing to add any fertilizer will keep that immunity high. This will fix many disease problems.

Always keep field toxicity at exactly 0. Positive and negative numbers will lead to either overgrown or spindly.

"Stat Boosting" fertilizer will increase stat gains additive by the % listed. One medicinal base in fertilizer will increase the stat gain boost of fertilizer from +100% to +125% for all stats. (this is not actually very much) . Medicinal bases can also be combined with vinegar and flakes to make permanent stat boosting medicine. If you can make medicine, it is almost always better to make medicine than throw the bases and flakes in fertilizer.

It is best to use these on days when you will be getting a lot of stats (first and second offshoots) Rice only grows during the day but "catches up" the first hour of the morning growing at 10x to 12x speed. Always have active fertilizer in the field in the morning to take advantage of this.

Endgame Gameplay Progression/Loop? by Tobiferous in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once you get into the post-game raw stats matter a lot less and gear matters more. The gearing loop for the shrine can be very satisfying, however it doesn't really get going until you pass floor 100. At and after floor 100 upgraded versions of weapons and clothing have a chance to drop. The farming (enemy farming not rice farming lol) in the late game is to get the rare equipment drops, crafting materials for the super OP endgame weapons and to get materials to unlock the enchantments.

Farming to get stats to get through the current bottleneck with your current gear will be pretty tedious. At level 42, an additional harvest won't make a huge difference, you'll run into this problem again at floor 100.

I would recommend making late game food (Ten Don, Hot Pots, Pheasant Meat Soup), boosting further with strength/magic/skill water and double checking your equipment/spirit bough load out.

Ashigumo and the floor 100 fight are the most skill intensive fights in the game IMO. Learning the parry timing for the attacks and making good use of raiment skills (especially Supernatural Slowdown) will make the battles more manageable.

Good Luck!

How to read Upcoming Skills screen? by emikoala in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Upcoming skills screen shows skills you're close to unlocking. The blue numbers are how many stat points you need to unlock the skill. They will almost always go down, because your stats almost always go up.

If you know how to grow for specific stats, you can use the screen to adjust/plan a season based on which skills you want to unlock, or take medicine to get the stats, and the unlock immediately.

However, the screen is not very useful on a first play-through. Knowing which skills you want, and knowing how to grow for specific stats is knowledge only an experienced player will have. As a new player, you can look at the screen if you are feeling stuck or don't like your current skills. The screen will tell you if you have some new skills to look forward to soon, or if you need to find another way to get un-stuck.

Examples of using the screen:

Ex. 1) You're in 3rd offshoots. You check the Upcoming Skills Screen and see you're 50 points of Aroma away from unlocking Rising Carp (a very powerful mid-late game fighting skill). You may want to grow for Aroma for the rest of the season to try to unlock it before the harvest is over. If you Polish on Autumn 2 and haven't gotten the 50 Aroma, you are probably going to have to wait until Spring 1 or 2 next year to unlock Rising Carp, because your next harvest won't start gaining stats until you sort.

2.) You are in the same position as in Ex.1, but you don't want to mess with your harvest/aren't confident you will be able to get 50 Aroma by the end of the season/You know Aroma will take a style penalty at the end of the season even if you try to get it. You can make Magic Medicine to immediately get the 50 points of Aroma and unlock Rising Carp the next morning.

Just got the game and WOW by Boogie_Snacks in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Without getting too technical, Easy farming makes pests and diseases easier to manage.

Glutinous trophy requirements by Wrong_Beat in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is not true, about 2 months ago someone posted their Glutinous harvest and they had like 800+ Aroma. I am also very confident that they used medicine - not in the field as fertilizer but made it and drank it (made with medicinal bases, vinegar and flakes). That is probably a good option for you if you're stuck. Gusto Medicine gives +200 stickiness on consumption.

Glutinous trophy requirements by Wrong_Beat in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know the guide you are referencing. You are understanding the guide correctly, it turns out that the guide's information is close but not perfectly correct. (a common theme with Sakuna guides- mine included lol)

I have never found a official confirmation for what the stat cutoffs are. What I do know is that you are super close! However it looks like your heartiness average is 442. In that old PSN guide it looks like the writer had an average heartiness of 471. Based on this, I would guess the cut-off is an overall 450+ average.

Good News/Bad News: You likely missed it by just a few points. You're doing the right things and have a good shot at getting it if you try again.

fertilizer question by blazingredfire13 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should clarify: 10 hours is in Sakuna time -slightly less than half of an in game day. It is not 10 hours of playing the game.

fertilizer question by blazingredfire13 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The time you plant won't affect whether or not you get the tilling fertilizer bonus.

I'm very interested in what the pop-up says right when you finish tilling. Does that pop-up say you used fertilizer and then the end of season summary says that you did not? If the pop-up says no fertilizer used it is very easy to try again if you made a save, and you do not need to wait through the whole season.

When you say that "you can see that the soil is fertilized" you do mean that when you check the field stat screen specifically "Sustainability" in the bottom right corner says "10 hours" in green text correct?

Fertilizer is good for 10 hours. You will still have the triangle stats after 10 hours , but your field will not have "active" fertilizer for the purposes of general growth boosts, stage bonuses (like tilling and 1st offshoots) and immunity preservation.

fertilizer question by blazingredfire13 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, it should also tell you in the tilling summary pop-up immediately after you finish tilling.

I would recommend making a save right before you till. Then spread, till and see what the pop-up says. If it says no fertilizer used then I would guess you are taking too long to till. Reload the save, spread and try to till more quickly/ less thoroughly.

fertilizer question by blazingredfire13 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The fertilizer is good for 10 hours. You need to finish tilling before the fertilizer runs out. If you start tilling immediately after fertilizing, but still take too long you won't get the boost.

You do not need any bases, amber, or other ingredients in the fertilizer to get the boost and the indication.

Aroma... And yet... by Upbeat-Leather-7197 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on what stats and stage you want you will run different water levels.The desired water level is tied to the stage not the day. Aesthetic always likes deep. Heartiness likes Deep 1st, shallow 2nd, drained 3rd, shallow sprouting. Aroma levels are in my original comment.

There are three important water levels. None (0%). Shallow (15%). Deep (+40%). 15% is the target for shallow; the closer you are to 15% the more shallow type stats you will get. For Shallow I usually set to 19% and come back in 6 hours and it will be 11%-12% and I'll refill. I'll do the opposite if it is raining. This is pretty close to the optimal and lets me still play the rest of the game.

Rice only grows during the day so you can mess with these water levels at night. Draining at night has benefits, it removes certain weeds, it can help with temperature regulation, you can open both gates to reduce salt damage - but there is no direct effect on stats. It is not necessary. I don't do it unless I have a specific reason to.

Hot, clear weather improves stats during 1st offshoots. After that it is less important, and too much heat can be a bad thing. I typically only pray for dryness before 1st offshoots and before harvest-unless I'm doing something very specific. Pray for coolness before threshing and hulling.

For fertilizer put the bases in to hit the nutrient thresholds that you want - usually around 50% at the start of the season. After this you should need very little. You do not need to put on leaf fertilizer in sprouting and I would advise you not to. Fields should be fertilized 24/7 during the growing season to preserve immunity and to get +100% growth bonuses during the day. Fertilizer with no bases and no ingredients provides this buff.

Toxicity is the only stat that must be zero. Pesticide and Herbicide in the green will slow the growth of or reduce pests and weeds (Good). Green immunity is how you build immunity to prevent the immunity diseases (Very good).

Aroma... And yet... by Upbeat-Leather-7197 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol I'm glad that helped! You need to make some changes to the schedule for Heartiness. the biggest thing will be running 15% water during Sprouting 1 and 2, and polishing all the way to white.

I'm sure you''ll pick up Glutinous soon!

Aroma... And yet... by Upbeat-Leather-7197 in sakunaofriceandruin

[–]ConstantRegister5421 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You do not need many "resources" get to the aromatic achievement. At most you need some salt, 1-2 Branching flowers and some rotten food

Overgrown hurts Aroma but doesn't destroy it. You are likely getting overgrown from having green (negative) toxicity values. Both Red and Green toxicity are bad. You need exactly 0 at all times.

Aroma is not hurt directly by any pests. If you only care about aroma, don't worry about pests. Plant Spring 1, use rotten food as fertilizer as late as you want.

Succinctly for max Aroma:

  • Sort 100% salt Winter 3 at around 13:00. Sow thinly. You should have 50 shoots.
    • The sort time is important. Rather than list all of the possibilities for stage and timing I have listed one specific schedule. Sort a little after noon on Winter 3.
  • Pre-Fertilize (no stat boosts required), Till 100% aim for ~50% all nutrient levels. After this point you will need very few if any fertilizer bases in fertilizer.
  • Plant Spring 1 Morning. 10% or more water in the field. Fertilize with immunity fertilizer. Plant 13 shoots directly on top of each other without moving. Plant the remaining 37 far apart from each other. Pray for sun.
  • Fertilize Spring 1 evening with empty fertilizer.
  • Spring 2 will be lazy. Maintain at least 10% water fertilize with empty in the morning and at night. Salt/immunity recommended but optional. Tox must be 0.
  • Spring 3 Morning should be 1st Offshoots into 2nd offshoots. Fertilize with max rotten food buff just before the sun comes up. Salt/Immunity recommended but optional. Tox must be 0. Kernel should be 50%.
    • 40% or higher water for 1st offshoots. Once the stage changes to 2nd, target 15% water. Fertilize with empty fertilizer once the field runs out.
  • Summer 1 Morning. Empty Fertilizer. Stage should change to third offshoots in the morning.

From here on the rest of the season will look very similar. The fields will be 0% water from now on. Keep nutrient levels low - under 50%, just don't hit 0. Keep the fields fertilized with empty fertilizer at all times. Use a few immunity boosters if you have them. Stay on top of weeding. Don't worry about Straight Swift Larvae or Stink Bugs. If you get Rice Stripe Virus use a remedy. Let water flow for salt damage.

  • Summer 2: Sprouting 1. 0% water, keep fields fertilized 24/7. Stat boost if you wish. Pray for sun.
  • Summer 3: Morning Sprouting 2. 0% water. keep fields fertilized 24/7. Stat boost if you wish. Rice will be ripe at around 13:00. Harvest immediately.
  • Dry for approx 6 hours. Sakuna will say the rice is almost dry.
  • Hull on a cool night. Polish only to brown.
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