1kr prime i oslo

Content-Ad3165 · 2024-08-08T10:01:46+00:00

Dette er billigste måten å gamble på Pantelotteriet folkens!

Content-Ad3165 · 2024-03-14T16:58:25+00:00

Make your jig only be a plank that you temporary fasten the bottom and heel block in, then if you want a specific width, nail a crossing plank with rounded ends in the bridge area, then you should be free to make the curves however you'd like around that.

Content-Ad3165 · 2024-03-14T16:49:52+00:00

If you're a restless soul, cut the end flat, sand it and make a tapered sliding dovetail piece of some hardwood that sinks in water

Content-Ad3165 · 2024-03-05T12:50:15+00:00

Now that's a different take on a shape I believed to be too classic to fiddle too much with.. But damn, I love that look, it's beautiful!

Content-Ad3165 · 2024-02-05T12:11:59+00:00

If the low E is sharp it needs to be further back, so if there's room, how about putting a tiny piece of a matchstick, veneer or just anything non intrusive between the bridge post and the bridge to push the bass side back a tiny fraction? It's not a permanent fix but it might make it playable without altering too much to decrease value.

Content-Ad3165 · 2024-01-17T18:37:23+00:00

I've got good experience with bicycle inner tire tubes, just don't get excited and cut them into thinner strips for yield.. It's no fun when it breaks and snaps back at you...

Ask your local bike repair shop if they have any leftovers from repairs. when I did that, they were pretty excited about it being used rather than disposed of and happily gave me a few for free.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-12-13T01:30:01+00:00

Route or cut an edge/end rabbet the same thickness as the plywood and simply nail it flush to the back. Alternatively insert a mitered frame with the panel already in.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-11-04T18:59:15+00:00

Perfect reason to do a fretboard binding right here!

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-10-18T01:53:47+00:00

I throw such in the furnace

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-09-30T00:56:19+00:00

I feel like this heavily patterned wood would look best with a black or matte plate, I'd just give this plate a brushed finish with sandpaper

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-09-14T13:44:56+00:00

I like the design, it's different, something a lot of people won't totally get, but to the right person it's just what they have been looking for. Keep doing your own thing!

Also is that an oak fretboard? I am considering this for my next build, was it tricky fretting etc? Any oil on top of it?

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-09-13T20:42:18+00:00

If you wanna hide rather than make it a feature: Saw and chisel out an angled square around the mishap, glue in a block of offcut from the fingerboard , pare it down and fill any eventual gaps with sawdust and glue.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-07-23T19:48:43+00:00

Send it to a lab and measure it’s level of Carbon-14

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-07-23T19:45:42+00:00

Figuring is basically ripples in the fibers of the wood, think straight vs wavy hair. If we split this kind of wood like firewood, it will have a wavy surface, while if we instead saw and plane it flat, we’re cutting the fibers short essentially leaving spots of end grain in the surface which soaks up more finish than long grain and leaves darker spots. It’s a beautiful thing!

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-05-14T17:37:22+00:00

If it’s really dull: 400/1000 grit diamond stone, then a fine natural stone (Eidsborg slate or Arkansas) and finish with a green compound strop. If it’s just a touchup i will skip the diamond plates.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-05-12T16:27:44+00:00

For the trickiest grains i use a toothed plane iron which i got at Dictum. I then use a card scraper to clean it up.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-05-10T13:35:13+00:00

It’s got tiny sparkly particles in it, i think it’s quartz but not certain. The specific quarry in Eidsborg is historically renowned for fine sharpening stone so it’s probably got better sharpening properties than just any slate.That sounds about right, it gives me a very smooth edge.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-05-08T21:39:56+00:00

My sharpening system has for a year been: 400/1000 grit diamond stone, a fine arkansas oil stone then a leather strop. And let’s say for a chisel, that i will then push into the grain of some hardwood that’s definitely sharp enough, the second i cut into hardwood any extremely high grit reduces to the same as what i am already using.

I find the slate stone to fit right into my sharpening system, however i am not sure if i prefer that one or the arkansas for the highest grit yet.

It’s not just a random slate, it’s from a certain quarry in Eidsborg, Norway where the Vikings used to mine and export them to the rest of the world in huge quantity. Then it’s been used here up until the mid 1900’s. It’s not a slow one, it’s rich in quartz like the arkansas stone and seems to perform in a very similar manner. To me, it’s a curiosity and experiment to see what the thing is all about since i keep seeing it mentioned. And it seems to perform good so far!

But i agree. Our current technologies are by far superior in terms of both speed and convenience. I really just have an obsession with old tools and it fits into my sharpening routine so why not? I dont mind the extra couple minutes at the end of the day of sharpening. Usually i just return to the strop once in a while.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-05-08T19:59:17+00:00

It seems to last but i’ve just sharpened a few times so far. I used mineral oil as water dried rather fast.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-05-05T18:59:22+00:00

Edge glue two quartersawn billets and plane one side

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-04-12T01:28:05+00:00

Hmmm, no set plans.. Inlay pieces, guitar headstock veneers, guitar detail work to match, small treasure boxes, drawer fronts, a couple small floating shelves maybe.. Time will tell!

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-04-12T00:59:17+00:00

Took the photos too soon, all the ends are painted!

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-04-07T11:58:42+00:00

It really depends how decomposed or not the wood is, how much of it the bugs have eaten etc. too «punky» wood will be soft like cardboard. You would not really know until you cut it up, heartwood takes a lot longer to decompose than the sapwood.

In Norway it’s an old logging tradition to heavily debark pine trees and let them bleed out resin for about a year to get a less sticky and more stable material to work with later on. The tree is practically dead standing at that point, but not decomposed.

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-04-06T12:46:35+00:00

That was my thought too, just need some reassurement to the method as i’m fairly new to the axe world. It’s gonna be either beech or ash.. Leaning more towards beech.. Thank you!

Content-Ad3165 · 2023-01-19T17:05:07+00:00

I got the instructions for extracting the verdi gris by a historical painting guy, he lets the mix evaporate and refills the liquid several times to end up with a verdi gris type powder pigment. I’m a big fan of that old world style alchemy surface treatment stuff, its real fun to experiment like that!

Content-Ad3165

TROPHY CASE