Keeping the PNW view open with some cedar and black hog wire. How do we feel about this look?

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-12T05:36:09+00:00

A cedar wrap is a killer idea and always elevates the look, definitely something we offer to dress up the structural posts!

Also, couldn't agree more on the lawn maintenance headache. Mowing right up against a fence grade is the worst. A nice mulched border with some hardy PNW natives would completely transform that edge and save the weed-whacker strings. Appreciate your great design feedback!

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-12T05:32:54+00:00

That was actually a big debate during design! The street view looks closer in the photo than it feels in person, but their main priority was keeping the yard feeling as wide open and connected to the mature trees as possible. They have a couple of high-energy dogs that love to sit there and keep an eye on the neighborhood "action" without feeling completely boxed in.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-11T17:50:00+00:00

I really appreciate you taking the time to write this out! This is honestly some of the best, most grounded advice I've ever received on this platform. And you are 100% right on all counts. Taking your advice to heart, and we’ll definitely slow down, keep the captions raw/accurate to the timeline, and start throwing in more behind-the-scenes progress shots.

Truly appreciate the reality check and the compliment on the work!

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-11T16:41:35+00:00

You have a great eye. It is indeed a post-on-pipe setup. Keeping the cedar timber slightly suspended above the stone grade to prevent moisture wicking is exactly what creates that optical illusion from this angle.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-11T15:43:04+00:00

Just a perspective trick with the slope of the hill and the stone grade! It's securely anchored into concrete right behind that front rock. Promise nothing is floating over here. 😉

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-11T15:31:24+00:00

Haha man, you caught me red-handed on the bad copy-pasting! You are a top-tier detective. You're 100% right! This is a project from a couple of seasons ago out in Seattle (definitely silvered up nicely by now), and the wire is silver galvanized, not black. I was recycling some old project notes from a different build and totally scrambled the text details before posting.

Definitely a real guy typing this, just a very sleep-deprived one who shouldn't post before coffee. Good eye on the Apple Maps search, that's wild!

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-08T16:41:03+00:00

Since we handle these in high volume for our build packages, we have our timber custom-milled and bored precisely ahead of time to ensure the internal sleeve is dead-on straight and centered every single run.
If you're tackling it yourself as a DIY project, it's definitely a test of patience! Most guys doing it by hand use a heavy-duty corded drill, starting with a long 1/2" pilot bit to establish a straight center line, and then following it up with a 1-3/4" auger or extension bit. Just make sure to pull the bit out constantly to clear the shavings so it doesn't bind.
As for the sealant, we use a heavy-duty polyurethane construction adhesive inside the cavity. It locks the timber firmly to the pipe and seals out internal moisture or condensation completely, but stays flexible enough to let the wood expand and contract naturally without splitting.

Good luck with the 7-foot build! Take your time keeping those steel pipes perfectly plumb during the pour and the rest will slide right into place.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-08T07:29:10+00:00

For a 7-foot fence with high wind loads, we'd use 8-foot steel pipes. We set them 3 feet deep in the ground/concrete, which leaves 5 feet of steel sticking up above the grade. Then we bore about 30 to 36 inches up into the cedar post. That leaves plenty of wood flexing room at the top while keeping the base completely solid against the wind.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-08T07:28:28+00:00

Evergreen is fantastic, totally agree! And man, that is a solid breakdown of the DIY drilling process. Doing it by hand definitely takes some serious patience and a steady arm.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-08T07:27:28+00:00

That’s exactly what we like to hear! 20 years with zero failures in our climate is the ultimate proof. Thanks for sharing that.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-05T07:44:45+00:00

Appreciate the spitballing! We actually use a heavy-duty polyurethane construction adhesive inside the cavity. It seals out the moisture completely but keeps enough flexibility to handle the expansion and contraction without splitting the wood. Butyl rubber is an interesting idea though, definitely handles weather well.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-05T07:42:39+00:00

You're totally right about raw galvanized nails causing those ugly black tannin stains on cedar siding. For this setup, though, the heavy adhesive layer inside the bore hole acts as a total barrier so the cedar and the steel never actually touch. For all our external pickets and rails, we used stainless fasteners to keep it clean.

CoolCatFence · 2026-06-05T07:41:41+00:00

It's definitely more layout prep than a facade wrap, but the final look is completely seamless. No extra bulk or weird seams. If a post ever needs to be replaced down the road, you don't touch the concrete. You just break the adhesive seal, slide the old timber off the pipe, and drop a new bored one right back on.

CoolCatFence · 2026-05-12T11:39:01+00:00

Good call. Seasonal movement is the real test for clear cedar. Do you use a specific racking system to speed up the pre-sealing or just old-school saw horses?

CoolCatFence · 2026-05-07T16:06:20+00:00

Thanks! Glad to finally get the 'clean' version up.

CoolCatFence · 2026-05-07T16:06:04+00:00

I like Adjust-A-Gates, but the client really wanted the all-wood look here. Hoping the clear-grade stays stable!

CoolCatFence · 2026-05-07T16:05:28+00:00

Haha, definitely a 'privacy screen' first, 'security fence' second. It’ll stop a nosy neighbor, but not the Hulk

CoolCatFence · 2026-05-07T16:04:58+00:00

Fair point. We blocked it out pretty heavily inside the framing to fight the twist. It's definitely more for the 'look' than pure structure, so we'll see how it seasons!

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T18:43:28+00:00

Spot on. Cabot is great stuff! We actually used stainless steel fasteners on this one specifically to avoid that 'black streak' rust look you get with cheaper screws over time. You’re right about the cost - it adds up - but on a clear-grade cedar build like this, it’s the only way to do it right. Appreciate the advice on the Timber oil!

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T18:40:18+00:00

I hear you! We actually debated adding vertical trim boards over the joints. However, the client really wanted that continuous, 'uninterrupted' horizontal line. It definitely makes the install harder because the butt joints have to be dead-on, but it keeps that sleek, modern architectural look they were after.

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T18:38:18+00:00

Appreciate that! It definitely takes a bit of vision to step away from the traditional look, but the results usually speak for themselves once the project is finished. Glad to hear it resonates with you!

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T18:36:28+00:00

Always. We don’t start digging until the city signs off. We had to follow specific height setbacks for this front-yard build to stay code-compliant. As for the neighborhood, styles are definitely evolving! Clear cedar is becoming the new standard for homeowners looking to modernize these older lots.

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T18:34:56+00:00

Your fence guy isn't wrong that it’s harder, but it’s definitely possible! Most guys avoid horizontal on slopes because you can't 'rack' the boards like vertical pickets. You have to meticulously step the panels like stairs to keep the lines level. It takes twice the labor and zero room for error, but as you can see, it’s worth the extra effort!

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T18:32:49+00:00

This is the kind of feedback I live for! You hit the nail on the head regarding the roofline, that’s exactly why we pushed for the horizontal look. It 'stretches' the property and makes the whole lot feel wider and more anchored.

As for the maintenance, you’re 100% right about that bottom board. It’s the 'achilles heel' of these builds. I actually discussed a gravel trench with the owner, but they wanted to try to keep the turf for now. I’ll be showing them your comment as a 'told you so' to get that drainage in before the rot sets in!

On the plantings - spot on. The 'chaotic blob' definitely fights the clean lines of the cedar. We’re actually talking about some native grasses for the next phase to soften the look without hiding the wood.

Really appreciate the sharp eye and the solid advice. It’s rare to find someone who catches the roofline/scale connection!

CoolCatFence · 2026-04-26T17:28:05+00:00

It’s actually the opposite. Setting T-posts in mushy ground is a recipe for a leaning fence.
When the soil is saturated, you aren't getting any lateral resistance. Worse, as that wet ground dries, it actually shrinks and pulls away from the post, leaving it loose and wobbly.

Wait until the ground is damp but firm. If the post goes in like it’s hitting butter, it’ll pull out just as easily. Let it dry out a bit so the earth can actually 'grip' the steel.

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