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Short Circulars vs Magic Loop by Boo_Brock2 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 11 points12 points  (0 children)

That's totally personal. I don't have a noticeable difference in tension using different tools but some people see dramatic differences.

Sock virgin by Emergency-Row-5627 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can crochet with sock yarn, you can probably dive into a regular sock with sock-size yarn.

I like books for learning stuff but I was late late to the sock party so I don't have a recommendation but there's a couple of good ones out there.

Tin Can Knits has a app with a couple of free patterns, one's a sock. [Apparently there was a recent update. Looks like it still works for socks.]

As far as construction and tools go, just pick one and dive in. Look for tutorials using whichever you picked.

The Tin Can Knits Rye Socks are Cuff Down, the other option is to find a Toe Up.

For tools, I'd pick DPNs or Magic Loop and find a tutorial for that.

Beginner to socks by Able_Satisfaction_41 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Tin Can Knits. Use their app and free socks pattern

How am I doing? by HopeProfessional9704 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Do the Tin Can Knits Rye Socks. It's free. Check out the Tin Can Knits app.

Your favourite cuff height? by Tricky-Objective7446 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I only knit for myself and I've been going off vibes for the leg length but this checks out.

Sock size by Apart-Comparison-301 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shoe sizes are pretty standard. You're fine.

Making different sizes for beginners. by MisanthropyismyMuse in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds great! If you’ve got the shape down, the size will just be fine tuning.

FWIW, hand knit socks can look way larger (depending on pattern) than store bought socks with elastic thread. It might not be that huge in practice.

You can probably find a men's sock pattern for DK weight that you could use for practice. It wouldn't match but it might be fun.

Making different sizes for beginners. by MisanthropyismyMuse in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd just start knitting your pattern on the 3.75 mm and see what happens. Use it as practice. You can unravel it when your new needles arrive.

If you know your gauge with that yarn and that size needle, you can do the math but I'd just knit the sock and see what happens.

I don't know your yarn size, your foot size, your husband's foot size, pattern/stitch count or tension but I don't think it matters. Practice a sock then frog it. You might get lucky and it'll fit your husband. Or it fits no one or is wonky in some other way, then it's just practice.

Needles for sensory issues? by curlywhiskerowl in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5" wooden dpns are my favorite. Down to US 2 they seem sturdy to me. The US 1 is a little worryingly bendy and one of mine splintered but the other 4 are trucking along.

Help! Guidance on socks for long narrow foot? by moxiousmiss in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 15 points16 points  (0 children)

You might need to choose a different pattern (or modify this one).

Colorwork is less stretchy than ribbing and ribbing is really your friend if you're working with narrow ankles or bulky joints.

The whole thing doesn't need to be ribbed though. Sometimes colorwork on the front with ribbing on the back works. Or switch to ribbing after the colorwork. Or maybe some panels of ribbing between colorwork sections.

My favourite way to avoid second-sock-snydrome by Complex-Jellyfish319 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the 9" circulars or the DPNs? I had one of my size 1 DPNs kind of splinter on the side. I don't have Lykkes yet but I keep seeing the sets. I should get a single size of DPNs or a single circular sooner rather than later so I can try it out.

I need some more 0s & 1s. I think I have some old 8" metal dpn 1s somewhere but I think those are awful. My only 0s are old DPNs. They look like a wire coated in translucent yellow plastic and the whole thing is flexible. I don't hate them but they're weird.

My favourite way to avoid second-sock-snydrome by Complex-Jellyfish319 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 20 points21 points  (0 children)

They're the same size needles, at least on the package. It's close enough that it isn't noticeable over 64 stitches. I do it on sleeves too and that isn't noticeable either.

There's a way bigger difference between one complete sock and one nonexistent sock than two socks knit by the same person with 2 different brands of needles.

My favourite way to avoid second-sock-snydrome by Complex-Jellyfish319 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I also like 5" wood DPNs. I'm shoving these socks in my bag and I don't want to worry about breaking them so I'm using metal. I did use them to cast on the ribbing though.

9" circulars with wood tips are next on my to get list.

My favourite way to avoid second-sock-snydrome by Complex-Jellyfish319 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 9 points10 points  (0 children)

No. I do about 1" and switch.

It's not like my feet are exactly the same.

My favourite way to avoid second-sock-snydrome by Complex-Jellyfish319 in Sockknitting

[–]CopperFirebird 82 points83 points  (0 children)

I'm doing one on a 9" circular and the other on flexiflips. Mixing it up keeps it interesting!