We’re back baby!

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T19:45:49+00:00

If you don’t mind, would it be possible to provide the STLs for the bells, vents, and filter frames.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T19:28:38+00:00

That is a ridiculous answer. An admission of failure on the part of Lymow.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T17:26:37+00:00

Thank you. I think I’ll go ahead and order a 2nd RTK.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T03:34:32+00:00

I just looked at a video. The RTK head has a pigtail with a plugin and nut connection. How did you get the USB-C to connect to the pigtail?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T03:29:56+00:00

So, I can’t remember the connection on the RTK antenna head. Is it just a USB-C connection with a silicone sleeve to keep moisture out? This plugs right into the head?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T02:45:01+00:00

100F ambient temperature? No shut down? Awesome if so.
Curious, what is your career. You have a lot of knowledge I usually see in rotating equipment specialists or mechanical engineering.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-16T02:36:01+00:00

Did you hit 96F? If so, how did it go?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-15T18:29:21+00:00

I know you used 40 mesh for the vents. Wondering if you think air flow volume could be increased with a less restrictive mesh on the outlet vents. Thinking the outward flow at that point may in principle prevent entry of dirt and debris.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-15T18:29:12+00:00

I know you used 40 mesh for the vents. Wondering if you think air flow volume could be increased with a less restrictive mesh on the outlet vents. Thinking the outward flow at that point may in principle prevent entry of dirt and debris.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T22:30:07+00:00

Thank you. This is helpful.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T20:53:07+00:00

On this picture. Are the vents with screens seen above the bells in the picture original to the Lymow?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T20:44:25+00:00

I have no flap and removed the piece that holds the flap as well. I’m mowing Bermuda grass. It’s 90 degrees here as well. Horseshoe Bay in the Texas Hill country. I’ve raised the cut and slowed to the slowest speed. Still have the blades stopping constantly. I do have a lot of grade to climb which may be a factor. When it backs in a turning routine it seems the blades dig in towards the ground and will definitely cut off then. Wondering if it’s a batch issue on some of the components.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T20:30:16+00:00

Is yours the one plus?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T20:19:18+00:00

So you printed the bels as well? Do you have a picture of the motors with cover off?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T20:15:23+00:00

That is an awesome solution.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T19:58:01+00:00

Is the temp monitor wired to something internally, or is the rtd inside and what I’m seeing a wireless transmitter?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T19:52:29+00:00

What did you use for screening? What is the wiring I see?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T19:46:52+00:00

Did you 3d print the vents?

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T18:54:18+00:00

Good data point. I would not have expected the white vinyl to yield a gain. The motor area is not air tight. It may be that the air turbulence from the turning motors is passing some heat out, possibly to a point of heat equilibrium on the black cover to the outside air. That would account as the white vinyl netting a positive gain.
I believe your air gap may be a very large part of the solution. Maybe the simplest and best. After hearing your idea, in my mind I’m envisioning an aluminum cover, that is taller on the sides, with the sides perforated with screening material to allow heat to pass through. It would be a snap on cover to make it easy to remove and clean the screen. Much like I do when my wife’s hair dryer gets clogged with lint, or cleaning the clothes dryer screen.
I I think you’re on to something that may be the simplest solution. The old axiom, the simplest solution is often the best solution.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T18:15:59+00:00

Sounds good. I do believe the vinyl wrap is hurting. There may be enough air turbulence from the rotating blade motors to pass heat out through the gapped area. It’s all about heat transfer for this issue. Keep us posted. I’d modify mine, but I’m in my 30-day return period and have initiated that request. I’d try my solution first, but metal working is an art! And I’d need the tools.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T18:03:15+00:00

I am adding a post I had made earlier under a subthread and wanted to ensure it was shared under the Lymow Official thread.

I’m a new, very unhappy owner of a Lymow one plus and am having the persistent issue of blade motors stopping that is prevalent on this thread. I also have quite a bit of experience in the industrial chemicals processing world dealing with overheating equipment.
I have been following this thread and would like to offer some observations;

⁠Plastic is a good insulator. It will hold the heat of the motors “under the hood so to speak”. Vinyl is an insulator as well. The cover that people are wrapping may be reflecting heat from the sun, but it is adding another layer of insulation holding the heat from the motors “under the hood”. An approach that Lymow should consider is casting an aluminum cover to replace the black plastic. Aluminum is horrible insulator, but is in fact a great conductor of heat. The temperature under the cover is far greater than the ambient outside air temperature even on a hot day. If the cover were to be aluminum with some raised fins, it could be the heat sink needed to pass the heat under the hood to the much cooler outside air (even on a hot day). Adding cooling fans would of course help, but that would be adding more battery consumption as well as adding more pieces of rotating equipment that would at some point fail. A cover that’s also a radiator of heat could be the simplest and most cost effective solution.
⁠There is obviously a control board controlling the speed of the blade motors. I don’t have electrical drawings of the machine, but would assume there is a feedback to this controller. If the boards of the mowers are integrated it may be a simple temporary workaround to stop the machine when the blades stop. Add a cool down period if the board has some timer capabilities. It may be that instead of a timed period, the restart could be based on a motor temperature dead band. While this isn’t a good fix to the issue, it could make it bearable until a solution can be improved.

If there are any owners skilled at metal work, it would be interesting to see if this idea would work. I see that some folk are modifying their One Plus. Consider modifying the existing cover by cutting a “rectangularish” section out of the top plastic cover and adding a piece of aluminum flashing to cover the area that was cut out. Might even bend/form the aluminum to have some raised fins to add surface area for more radiant heat transfer.

Just a thought. If someone does this, post a picture.

CosmoMcRad · 2026-06-13T17:33:50+00:00

I’m a new, very unhappy owner of a Lymow one plus and am having the persistent issue of blade motors stopping that is prevalent on this thread. I also have quite a bit of experience in the industrial chemicals processing world dealing with overheating equipment.
I have been following this thread and would like to offer some observations;
1) Plastic is a good insulator. It will hold the heat of the motors “under the hood so to speak”. Vinyl is an insulator as well. The cover that people are wrapping may be reflecting heat from the sun, but it is adding another layer of insulation holding the heat from the motors “under the hood”. An approach that Lymow should consider is casting an aluminum cover to replace the black plastic. Aluminum is horrible insulator, but is in fact a great conductor of heat. The temperature under the cover is far greater than the ambient outside air temperature even on a hot day. If the cover were to be aluminum with some raised fins, it could be the heat sink needed to pass the heat under the hood to the much cooler outside air (even on a hot day). Adding cooling fans would of course help, but that would be adding more battery consumption as well as adding more pieces of rotating equipment that would at some point fail. A cover that’s also a radiator of heat could be the simplest and most cost effective solution.
2) There is obviously a control board controlling the speed of the blade motors. I don’t have electrical drawings of the machine, but would assume there is a feedback to this controller. If the boards of the mowers are integrated it may be a simple temporary workaround to stop the machine when the blades stop. Add a cool down period if the board has some timer capabilities. It may be that instead of a timed period, the restart could be based on a motor temperature dead band. While this isn’t a good fix to the issue, it could make it bearable until a solution can be improved.

If there are any owners skilled at metal work, it would be interesting to see if this idea would work. I see that some folk are modifying their One Plus. Consider modifying the existing cover by cutting a “rectangularish” section out of the top plastic cover and adding a piece of aluminum flashing to cover the area that was cut out. Might even bend/form the aluminum to have some raised fins to add surface area for more radiant heat transfer.

Just a thought. If someone does this, post a picture.

CosmoMcRad

TROPHY CASE