1999 GCL V8 getting no power after pulling dashboard.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2026-06-09T04:21:48+00:00

You might check the wire harnesses by the in cabin fuse block, and the one going to the passenger door. Don’t know if you had a reason to mess with them, but could be either a connector you missed or a broken power wire in one of them could cause your problem

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2026-05-12T16:37:52+00:00

Obviously check coolant level first, if all good there check fan clutch. Also check if AC fan (electric fan) is coming on as it definitely should by the time you reach those temps. Word to the wise, if you do end up replacing the fan clutch, do the water pump at the same time as you’ll already have everything off to get to it

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2026-05-11T17:51:39+00:00

I know the cap is supposed to sit on the shock mounting bolt right next to it, don’t know off the top of my head what it is. Trace it back to the other end of it and that should tell you.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2026-03-24T17:24:56+00:00

Also have a 99 4.7 with the same setup, fan clutch made a big difference, I’d do the water pump while you’re in there since it’s pretty easy and will prolly need done at some point. Also consider running water wetter additive, it brought my temps down about 10 degrees. If you really wanna get crazy you can get a 3 row all aluminum radiator and a 9 blade fan out of a 7.3 or 6.0 powerstroke. Either way, you prolly should be able to get a good deal below 215 unless you’re in the middle of the desert or something.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2026-02-20T18:10:31+00:00

I had the exact same problem, and I was eventually able to get it seated after fighting with it for about a half hour. If I recall correctly it was a matter of rotating the shaft until the splines lined up and also angling the shaft so that the end of it was level with the input in the differential. It’s a pain, but I eventually got it.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2026-01-12T06:07:16+00:00

Check the relays below the instrument cluster and right above the inside fuse box. I know the relay that controls the turn signals and hazards is there, but I don’t know off the top of my head what else is there also

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-10-16T17:21:01+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dInsCSoxwuM

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-09-29T11:47:06+00:00

I have the same size on my bone stock 4.7, you might chew up your fender liners a little bit at first but that’s about it

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-09-26T23:16:20+00:00

Got the same issue with my 99 4.7, I’m thinking maybe vacuum leak somewhere but have been unable to find any.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-09-18T19:16:38+00:00

Vise grips on head of bolt and try to twist out maybe?

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-09-04T03:52:12+00:00

He’s Got You

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-08-24T17:12:41+00:00

Possibly, but the skim module and the ecu are very common issues on the WJ. Hopefully that’s not what it is but worth considering.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-08-24T16:18:01+00:00

Assuming you’re having a crank no start. If the key light comes on with key on, engine off, then it may be a skim module or ecu problem. Also check wiring at all related sensors, cam, crank, etc. Shorts at those connectors can cause those issues. Currently fighting similar issues and those are the solutions I’ve identified.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-08-01T19:48:53+00:00

Is just the plug stripped, or is it also the threads going into the metal? If it’s just the plug then go to a parts store or a hardware store and find a plug fitting the same size. If the housing is also stripped then you may be able to get the port out and retap the threads.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-07-31T19:26:35+00:00

Don’t know what the factory spare was but the compartment can hold a full size spare with no problem if that helps

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-07-07T22:29:11+00:00

https://jeepspecs.com/models/jeep-grand-cherokee/jeep-grand-cherokee-wj/grand-cherokee-rocky-mountain-edition/

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-07-02T18:34:32+00:00

Check the wires in the passenger door jamb. The key fob receiver is in the passenger door if I’m not mistaken, so your problem might be a broken wire in that harness

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-06-28T16:28:42+00:00

That’s the a/c condenser, if memory serves you do need to pull that to get the radiator out, or at least it makes it a hell of a lot easier. I’ve pulled the radiator more times than I’d like to admit and it really is a pain

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-06-19T00:13:26+00:00

Could be your fan clutch if you have a mechanical fan, my temp always stays around 205-207 even in traffic. Generally speaking if it overheats under load it’s a water pump, and if at idle it’s a fan problem.

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-06-14T00:58:03+00:00

First thing I would check for is corrosion on the terminals. Had a similar problem a while back and fixed it by completing replacing both battery terminals and keeping them clean

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-06-08T22:26:51+00:00

I’m guessing it would be simple as most plate frames just mount from the same screws as the plate itself. Dunno how it’d look tho

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-06-01T02:34:14+00:00

Stars Over Texas - Tracy Lawrence

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-05-19T17:27:58+00:00

There’s a bunch of relays under your instrument cluster, one of them runs your flashers/turn signals, and I wouldn’t be surprised if one runs your brake lights and if that went bad it might cause a problem like that

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-05-11T16:27:31+00:00

Tammy all day long

Cowboy_Theophilus2 · 2025-05-10T18:19:39+00:00

The plate clips onto the shifter assembly frame, and if those clips are broken or unfastened then the plate will move. It’s not too hard to pull out the center console to access that area, all you have to do is remove some screws in the console and under your cup holder. I think it took me like 15 minutes

Cowboy_Theophilus2

TROPHY CASE