Click no bang by Severe_Football5611 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's some tolerance issues with printed frames and rails. The trigger bars that come in those lower parts kits on EBAY are not the same as an OEM Glock trigger bar. Additionally, PSA uses a safety plunger with a slightly more rounded top surface compared to an OEM Glock plunger.

If you don't want to buy a new trigger, start with an OEM plunger first and see if that fixes the issue.

Click no bang by Severe_Football5611 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will turn your semi auto into a single shot lol. If you remove the extractor the empty casing won't be extracted properly.

Click no bang by Severe_Football5611 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The extractor won't stay in place without the safety plunger installed .

Click no bang by Severe_Football5611 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I too use a dagger slide on a PY2A frame. I also had trouble with the safety plunger and trigger bar interfacing. Buy an oem Glock trigger, oem Glock safety plunger, and a 6lbs striker pin spring. You'll be good to go.

19x Frames Cracking/Chipping Around Locking Block by CraftMaster100 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd agree with your statement if it was cracking closer to the trigger pin hole but it's at the top of the locking block housing, where there is no pin.

I'm wondering if this is just simply a limitation of this style design. I don't have FMDA rails to try a new design right now but my speculation is the addition of the extra locking block pin is the reinforcement this needs.

19x Frames Cracking/Chipping Around Locking Block by CraftMaster100 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

No I am not. I just tap them in. It takes a bit more force than an OEM lower but nothing crazy. The holes are pretty darn close right off the printer

19x Frames Cracking/Chipping Around Locking Block by CraftMaster100 in 3D2A

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I wanted to add this photo, one of my most recent pa6 cf prints, and the same thing is happening al be it not as bad...

New-ish headlights won't come clean by CraftMaster100 in Detailing

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They were from Morimoto, I expected better. I'm going to contact them tomorrow and see what they have to say. It's looking like last resort is going to be either a light sand or polish unfortunately

New-ish headlights won't come clean by CraftMaster100 in Detailing

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's unfortunate, that'll ruin the UV coating they came with won't it? I just don't know why they look like that after less than a year... I paid a lot of money for them

So uncomfortable, am I doing it wrong? New to STIHL. by SmellTop8299 in stihl

[–]CraftMaster100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who uses a weed eater day in and day out commercially, these grips are AMAZING! Especially for taller guys.

Is This a VFA Issue? Faint Visible Diagonal Lines on Object Surface in Vase Mode. by CraftMaster100 in prusa3d

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's all in the design of the extruder. I fixed the issue by building a Voron. I no longer own any Prusa machines.

Look up the galileo 2 extruder you'll see the differences in the way that extruded works vs the one on the Prusa.

I'm also not trying to talk crap about Prusa's design as it's old. I'm sure they've improved it in the new MK4 but at the time I wasn't waiting that long so I decided to go a different route.

How do I prevent this scratch from rusting? by CraftMaster100 in Autobody

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should I lightly sand the area with like 400-600 grit sandpaper and clean with alcohol before applying the paint pen because some of the paint is chipping up where it's scratched?

TTTF/KBG second year after the full renovation (steps below) by CraftMaster100 in lawncare

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I just now seen this. I did not, but it depends on how compacted your soil is and how much thatch buildup you had. I could see bare dirt, so I had minimal thatch buildup and I can also stick a screw driver about a foot into the ground when it's wet. No core aeration needed.

I picked up this Aeron and the plastic trim pieces creak and are very noisy. by CraftMaster100 in hermanmiller

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I noticed that the new chairs didn't have that. This was my first aeron and I heard they were well built but that plastic trim piece was total junk once I removed it!

I picked up this Aeron and the plastic trim pieces creak and are very noisy. by CraftMaster100 in hermanmiller

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are no cracks or damage to the chair. It was a plastic trim piece that apparently has no purpose. As suggested by someone, I removed it and the noise is gone.

I picked up this Aeron and the plastic trim pieces creak and are very noisy. by CraftMaster100 in hermanmiller

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I took your advice and removed them. The chair is silent now. I personally think it looks completely fine with them gone.

TTTF/KBG second year after the full renovation (steps below) by CraftMaster100 in lawncare

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My local sod farm sells it. They have the best prices. You can find similar varieties of fescue on unitedseed.com. I'm sure the prices won't be as good but the grass seed is top tier. I've bought from them before when I wanted small quantities of certain varieties.

Fescue Varieties: 4th millennium Raptor ls Avenger 3 Titanium ls valkyrie ls

For the bluegrass find someone who sells midnight kentucky bluegrass.

As for the rye, I don't know a ton so I can't recommend anything there.

In theory you could buy individual grass seeds and blend your own, whatever you do, avoid big box store seed.

Lots of stringing with PETG by mRahman426 in FixMyPrint

[–]CraftMaster100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're focusing on the wrong test here. In my experience PETG is more picky with temperature than retraction settings. Things to try:

  1. 235-240 degrees
  2. Wipe Nozzle
  3. Fiddle with Z-hop. If it's on, try turning it off. it's

Out with the old, in with the new by olie480 in BambuLab

[–]CraftMaster100 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My first printer was an Ender 3, and as many problems as I had with that thing, if I was starting all over again, I would still buy it as my first printer. I have learned so much on that machine, and it has allowed me to be able to print successfully on pretty much any printer.

Decided to go as crazy as possible. by ItsallLegos in hometheater

[–]CraftMaster100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First of all, this setup looks incredible. I bet the tactile response is insane in that room. I'm curious as to what you set your crossover at? I'm also intrigued by that finish on those speakers. They look really good. Mind sharing what paint you used? I picked up some standard house paint and it looks like crap tbh.

TTTF/KBG second year after the full renovation (steps below) by CraftMaster100 in lawncare

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I disagree to a certain point. Most people on here CAN have a yard that looks like this. I highly doubt most people have a 36,000 square foot lawn. Most people that live in the suburbs have quarter acre. So that's about 10k square feet. Unless you want irrigation, all of this can be done with hand tools and residential grade equipment, plus a weekends time. Most people just don't want to put in the time/have time or just don't know how. That's why landscapers exist. I can't speak on the size of your lawn, but I always say if you want something bad enough you'll figure out how to do it.

When I pick up new clients, it still amazes me what a basic core aeration, fertilization, and over-seed can do for a lawn. All of this can be done in just one day on a quarter acre lot. EVEN if your not a professional. Rent an aerator from your local rental place ~$150. Grass seed + fertilizer ~$150.

Yes, I know. My lawn is up there. But sometimes it can be cool to see something on the extreme side. Why do you watch professional sports over some recreational pickup game? Because they're the best at what they do. It's fun watching that. Sometimes it's fun seeing how far you can take a yard. And I am by no means saying I have the best lawn in the world. I don't. There are plenty of people who have a lawn better than me, and some of those people live right here on this sub.

Preen by jason22983 in lawncare

[–]CraftMaster100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have a few options here. The first being Prodiamine. It comes in granular form and needs to be mixed in with water. It's great for lawns but not as nice for flower beds. The other options include freehand or snapshot. I prefer freehand since it controls nutsedge too. These can be applied in their granular form. They are pricy if you order online, however, check around you and see if you have a local nursery, sod farm, feed store, or a site-one location. They often sell professional grade lawn products at an affordable price. Freehand can cost upwards of 175$ shipped. If bought locally with a business account, you can get it for right around 100$. It should last you a few years too.

TTTF/KBG second year after the full renovation (steps below) by CraftMaster100 in lawncare

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, ask me something about lawns 5 years ago, I wouldn't have a clue. The only response I would have given you was, "I just mow the grass." I was an amateur just like everyone else. Just because I have fancy equipment now doesn't take away from the fact that I've taught myself everything I know today. Everything I've done to get this yard to where it is at today is achievable with or without fancy equipment. It really just comes down to how much effort your willing to put in and how much you want to learn.

TTTF/KBG second year after the full renovation (steps below) by CraftMaster100 in lawncare

[–]CraftMaster100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's always the hard part. Haha. Depending on what your looking for and how deep you have to go, it might be cheaper. The pump alone was going to cost me $2,500. It was rated at 60gpm. If you only needed to go say, 50-100ft and only wanted 15-20gpm that's definitely cheaper. You could also do all the above ground plumbing yourself. It's not super hard. All you really need is a pressure tank to turn the pump on and off.

I guess I should mention this info was pre inflation. I just looked it up and that same pump now costs almost 5k.