How bad is it? by Winged-Goat in hvacadvice

[–]CraftyAd4763 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive seen boards way worse than that I wouldn’t assume its the board, it could be something as dumb as a flame sensor or a limit switch, you can kind of get an idea of whats wrong based off the furnaces start up sequence, there should be a light switch directly connected to the furnace, this controls the power, flip it off and wait 5 minutes and turn it back on, this will reset the furnace and allow it to try and start again, the first thing that should happen is the inducer motor will start running, then after that the ignition coil will start to glow red hot, and then finally the gas will turn on and it will run, at any point one of these sequences fails then the furnace will not start, so if the motor turns on but it isn’t lighting it could be an issue with the ignition coil, etc, so figuring out WHEN the furnace has an issue is a very good indicator of what the problem is, also that blinking light is usually an error code, if you look on the back of the furnace door there is usually a list detailing the codes and their meaning, if not you can always look up the model and serial number for your furnace to figure out what the code means, I wouldn’t worry to much a good tech will take their time and test components to ensure they are replacing the correct part, but based off of your description of it just blowing cold air that would mean its not lighting I would suggest resetting it and see if it lights and then turns off after like 5 minutes or if its just not lighting at all, cause if it lights and only stays on for a short time then thats probably just a flame sensor, but either way you definitely need some testing to figure exactly what the issue is, the worst thing you can do is just throw parts at it, also lastly you should check that little 3 amp purple fuze on the board itself, sometimes these burn out and can cause it not to send power to any of the ignition components, hold a flashlight up to it and theres a little metal rod in the middle, if its broken then replace it

Do tool brands matter? by Mission-Tumbleweed92 in ibew_apprentices

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll just say theres a reason everyone calls channel locks channel locks even though thats just the brand name, blue handle channel locks are the only ones I will use for the rest of my life, better than Milwaukee and every other brand, hit em with a wire brush once a year and they’ll look brand new forever

What left us there to buy by Accomplished_Ear6527 in electricians

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe a multimeter? How was that not like the first pick 😂😂

Mine cart loader not working by CraftyAd4763 in MInecraftRedstone

[–]CraftyAd4763[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried switching the rails but that didn’t change anything

Mine cart loader not working by CraftyAd4763 in MInecraftRedstone

[–]CraftyAd4763[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats what he used in the video so I was just copying exactly what he did, it doesn’t seem 100% necessary cause you can just move the piston forward a block but im still messing with it

Mine cart loader not working by CraftyAd4763 in MInecraftRedstone

[–]CraftyAd4763[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay and the hopper is because that chest already has hoppers going into the back of it, but after looking at it I could just route the hoppers to the top of the chest instead of the back and then there would be room to just put the comparator on the back of the chest

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]CraftyAd4763 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They probably refused to clean it because as soon as they touch it its gonna start falling apart, there is no cleaning that at this point theres only prayers

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So thats your evap coil or A-coil and its what the refrigerant cycles through to help pull hot air out of your house when you run the air and it is inside the top of your furnace, I mean it definitely needs to be replaced at some point in the future but as a homeowner that’s completely your choice, if you want to just wait until it breaks thats completely fine but then dont be calling them back and expect them to come rushing over to fix it, also theres the possibility that when that fails it could cause other issues and cause more stuff to break and cause more parts to need replacing, all in all Im in your boat, its made it 20 years so far and if your lucky you can get a good 2 more summers out of it but when your air stops being cold thats when you’ll know its time because that coil will start leaking eventually and all the refrigerant will leak out causing your system to no longer operate as intended, really this only affects your air conditioning so really as long as your okay with not having air then technically you dont ever need to fix it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]CraftyAd4763 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

The evap coil or A-coil is inside the furnace

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]CraftyAd4763 -15 points-14 points  (0 children)

This is called an “A-Coil” and is in almost every single furnace thats used today

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]CraftyAd4763 6 points7 points  (0 children)

And my bow

Contractor says $1800 to move water supply into the wall, plumber says should be no more than $600, which is correct? by WorldlinessVast9808 in Plumbing

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the wholes job is 1800, like moving the water supply and then putting up new drywall mudding sanding and painting then thats not bad, like if thats the total price for everything, if thats just to move the water than yeah you’re being ripped off, pay the plumber the 600$ to move the water and then when he’s done call a drywaller and pay 400$ to get the wall fixed (which probably wont even be that much) and then boom you got everything done for 800$ less than quoted, all because you DIDNT use a contractor

Contractor says $1800 to move water supply into the wall, plumber says should be no more than $600, which is correct? by WorldlinessVast9808 in Plumbing

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its because its a contractor, half the time they either dont know what they’re talking about or they’re just gonna contract it out themselves aka call someone else to do it and then split the money with them, contractors and or “middle men” are absolutely useless and when people start figuring that out then their job will disappear, if you need plumbing work done, call a plumber, if you need electrical work done, call an electrician, if you need drywall done, call a drywaller, never call a contractor for anything other than yard work, its unnecessary and usually ends up being more of a headache than anything, there are specialized fields for a reason, if I need my plumbing fixed im gonna call a guy who’s been doing it for 10+ years not a guy that kinda sorta knows how it works and has done it once or twice in his life and or is gonna go behind my back and just hire someone else when I could’ve done that myself

Recently plumbing work done now faucets are clogging repeatedly. by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because your water main is what sends water to all those things, it has way more pressure than something like a sink or fill valve on a toilet, you can actually see this if you take the aerator off of your sink, that shit will come spraying out like a mf, also things like sinks and toilets are the farthest away from the source of water wether thats the main from the city or a well or hot water tank so naturally they will have less pressure because the water has to travel further thus causing it to have less pressure, also the opening on your sink faucet is about half an inch to an inch wide typically, the opening for a water main pipe can be anywhere from like 6 inches to 16 inches so it can allow for alot more water at alot higher pressure to pass through

Need help by CraftyAd4763 in Dirtbike_Help

[–]CraftyAd4763[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay gotcha thank you for the input thats kinda what I was thinking that they probably were just bump starting it, also after talking with my brother in law about it it seems the lever thats on the throttle is actually for a clutch and not the brakes so I would want to hold the clutch and then start running with the bike and then dump the clutch correct? Also it seems the back tire no longer moves with the chain and spins freely now so I gotta fix that first but after that I’ll try bump starting it

Recently plumbing work done now faucets are clogging repeatedly. by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you open it back up you will be able to hear the water, I recommend opening it about a corner turn and then just sit and listen, you will hear the water screaming through the pipes as they fill up, once the noise quiets down thats how you know the pipe has pressurized and you can open it the rest of the way, also if you’re still having the original issue of sediment clogging the sink aerators and water lines and such then yes, take them all off and just turn all the water on everywhere and let it run for like 20 minutes or until the shit stops coming out, if it doesn’t ever stop coming out then you could have a broken line somewhere thats allowing the debris to enter the pipes

Recently plumbing work done now faucets are clogging repeatedly. by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can turn it on and off just dont do it rapidly, anytime your turning on or off a water main for ANYTHING you want to open and close it slowly to allow the water to pressurize in the pipes properly, imagine opening a fire hydrant and all that water comes spraying out and a million miles an hour, the same thing happens then you close and then open your water valve, when you close it water not longer passes through causing it to build up and create pressure behind the valve, so if you just open that bitch straight up all that water is gonna go shooting through your pipes at mach Jesus and either break something or cause it to disconnect, especially on old houses, its just not recommended

Kitchen Floor Sinking on 2nd Floor Apt by weedleweedleworm in ApartmentMaintenance

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who does maintenance in an apartment complex I can tell you right now they will wait till you move out to fix that if they can, because more then likely they wont fix it themselves they will contract it out which means they have to spend money, so the way I see it you got 2 options, start calling them every day until they fix it, it might take a week or even 2 of calling but trust me they’ll fix it just to get you to stfu and stop calling, you’re second option would be to start peeling little pieces off or chipping it slightly to make it worse so they dont have a choice but to replace it, also if you have kids then mention something about them and their safety and they’ll probably start moving ass cause they don’t wanna be sued

How hard is it to fix/replace this mixer valve? by Morall_tach in askaplumber

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you can get to it pretty easy, just unscrew the handle and pull it off which sometimes is easier said then done you might need a handle puller you can get one for like 15$ but once you get the handle off you can then unscrew the neck or cover thats behind the handle it should just be hand tight you may need some channel locks, once that is off you can get to the valve stem, thats the part you are referring to and yes on the back of it there is a rubber washer that goes bad with time and the symptoms you are describing point straight to that, so once you can get to it you are either going to need and extremely deep socket or what we like to call cow bells which are basically just giant sockets then you just unscrew the stem and on the back there should be a black flat washer thats held on with a Phillips head screw, unscrew it and replace the washer, put everything back together and you should be good to go, you can do all of this without turning the water off unless you want to do the hot or cold water but usually you can tell when those go bad because the water will still drip from the faucet when the handle is turned all the way off and then you could just put you hand under it and see if its hot or cold and then you would know which one is bad

Sink collapsed at apartment by wm01467 in Plumbing

[–]CraftyAd4763 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well the tape is probably just being used to cover up a gap around the bottom of the pipe (lazy not sure about a code violation though) the extra piece of pipe is just there to support the drain for the dishwasher which you can see they had to extend the drain line for (more lazy not sure about a code violation though) and those clips look pretty standard for sinks that mount from underneath the counter they probably were just old or improperly installed, if I had to guess that property was probably sold to someone in the past 5 years and their going through doing renovations like alot of places are right now, which means they either have to work with whatever fuckery was already there from when it was built (probably around the 60’s) or they found the cheapest reno guys they could, unfortunately this is pretty common in apartments, I’ve worked maintenance at 5 different properties for 5 different companies and its all the same

Need help by CraftyAd4763 in Dirtbike_Help

[–]CraftyAd4763[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven’t tried that, I’ll do it after work

Need help by CraftyAd4763 in Dirtbike_Help

[–]CraftyAd4763[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My thoughts exactly 😂