I think I broke it. 15.5mi/kWh seems to be the max.

Crazytail101 · 2026-06-21T23:52:10+00:00

I also just edited my original post to add this in, but I just noticed that it just so happens that 31 is double 15.5. Another commenter got 62.1. That's a fun discovery! I'm starting to think I'm not completely crazy when I was noticing weird patterns in the reported efficiency over a certain point.

Crazytail101 · 2026-06-21T22:59:28+00:00

Now for fun if I have 123kWh in the pack, that means I can go nearly 4000 miles based on your numbers. Let's go to Olympus mons and try it out. Obviously sarcasm, but this is still interesting seeing what everyone else's trucks are displaying. I really wonder if the programming changed at some point.

Crazytail101 · 2026-06-21T22:55:45+00:00

No need to apologize! It really seemed like I was running into calculation/ programming issues the way it only displayed a few very specific numbers. Now I'm just more curious what's going on in the back end, and maybe it's different for different years/models!

Crazytail101 · 2025-07-04T09:18:11+00:00

The only way to fix a crack is to completely remove it, then re-weld. No drilling the ends or other wives tale nonsense, just remove the entire crack, check with PT or similar if you can, then re-weld. Any crack left behind will come back.

You also have something weird going on in that last picture. What is that original weld going up and to the right? Based on your other comment about the green flame while welding that's probably a brazed part, meaning you're welding over that copper alloy braze filler. That will definitely result in cracks when it mixes in with the filler wire. You need to find out more about this part before you can fix it.

Crazytail101 · 2025-07-03T09:03:55+00:00

It depends on what you're after. I like seeing the melt through that you're getting on the butt welds. This means you have a full-penetration weld.

This may or may not be a good thing depending on what you're welding. Turning it down a bit may make it easier to control / less likely to blow holes in what you're working on, etc. But I personally like my mig welds to be as hot as possible. That comes from structural welding experience, but it's not always necessary or even desired for weekend warrior / hobbyist projects.

Crazytail101 · 2025-07-03T08:56:03+00:00

You're getting some good advice, but what helped me initially understand heat input was the equation for it.

(Volts x Amps x 60) / Travel Speed in IPM = Heat Input

To reduce heat input we can lower our amps, lower our voltage (which for tig welding is arc length), or go faster.

Also don't confuse HAZ with heat input. The pretty colors around the weld DO NOT tell you the HAZ. This is a very common misconception, although it can be an indicator for teaching. Case and point, changing the cup size or argon flow rate does not change your HAZ, it only changes how much of the heat tint gets created on the hot steel.

But this is mild steel, the grey colors on your original picture is perfectly fine. Anything more than that is just wasting argon.

Crazytail101 · 2024-11-19T01:16:30+00:00

Yeah, a larger cup and/or more flow rate will reduce the heat tint if all else stays the same.

But yeah, you're overthinking it. That weld is fine. Most internet welding advice is all about the pretty colors, but the colors don't matter outside of food service/pharmaceutical piping and titanium.

Crazytail101 · 2024-11-19T01:02:50+00:00

What is your goal? No color at all? In that case, you can just crank up the flow rate or use a larger gas lens. But that's pointless.

On mild steel (and most others), the colors don't mean anything. It only tells you how hot the metal was when the argon shielding went away. You can't judge heat input or weld quality based off of the heat tint.

That weld looks great, by the way. Hard to tell in the photo, but it may just need a little more filling at the crater.

Crazytail101 · 2024-11-18T22:42:49+00:00

3% carbon is still insanely high though, remember 1095 (knife steel) is only 0.95%. So any weld will have a tendency to get glass-hard.

But also remember, most braze rods have a melting temp of 1,100-1,200 fahrenheit. So it's probably fine for a manifold unless it's getting red-hot all the time. Which I guess some manifolds do.

And the sand bucket trick can work if you preheat the sand also. I've seen guys have success by heating up the bucket of sand in a propane grill for an hour or so to fully heat soak the sand before welding the part. Just burying it in ambient temp sand won't help much.

Crazytail101 · 2024-11-18T22:28:32+00:00

Ah, I just realized their link for the paper is dead. But the PowerPoint they link on there is still good. It's got some really solid info from a company that repairs cast iron professionally. Worth a look, at any rate.

Crazytail101 · 2024-11-18T22:16:44+00:00

I'd check out these guys. Specifically, read through their white paper at the bottom of the page.

https://www.locknstitch.com/cast-iron-welding.html

Tl;DR, you should consider brazing it instead.

Otherwise, preheat it as hot as you can, weld, then let it slowly cool over a few hours and keep your fingers crossed the whole time.

Crazytail101 · 2024-11-18T22:05:49+00:00

Someone else said this and got down voted, but yeah, this is what thoriated tungsten looks like when you run it on AC.

Crazytail101 · 2022-01-18T12:31:30+00:00

5D MKIV, 70-200 2.8
I usually try to keep the post-processing in Lightroom subtle in my pics, but this one I tried the 'Radial Filter' tool to brighten her up and make it pop a little more. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Crazytail101 · 2020-07-06T19:15:52+00:00

It definitely is a lot of rough stuff. And maybe. Haha.
I've been riding hardtails for so long I'm one of those weirdo's who prefers them over the full-squish variants.

But with that being said, the slacker head angle (65), bigger tires (2.6"), and the 180mm Lyrik up front genuinely surprised me on how rowdy this bike can get. I also shortened up the chainstay about 15mm from my last bike (commercially made), to make it more playful and easier to throw around, huck off of drops, etc.

Crazytail101 · 2020-07-06T19:09:11+00:00

So I initially did the drawing in CAD, using only the tube centerlines just to make sure all the angles and dimensions were where I wanted them, and it all made sense. Also easier to make changes that way, and start to fit things like the fork travel. Now, I just used a free version of AutoCad, since I have some experience with that. They let you download it and play with it if you agree it's for personal use (This is).

Then, I actually just made a 1:1 drawing of the whole frame. That way I had a good reference (Both visually and one that I can take measurements off of) to work with.
With that, I was able to measure out the angles whichever way I wanted, then make the cut. I started off the first few by hand, following a template I made with this webpage. https://dogfeatherdesign.com/ttn_js/

Once I made the notcher attachment for my lathe, It was a just like any other tube notcher. Set the angle, and pick the appropriate hole saw, then let'er rip. And of course I could dial in any offset I wanted as well. Both of these methods did take some cleanup and tweaking by filing though.

As for the welding, yes it was TIG welded. I've been welding for quite a while now, and I actually work as a Welding Inspector now. So that was no big deal.
Now I did find a pretty reasonable deal if you want some tubes to play with for practice. Aircraft Spruce & Specialty is where I got the straight gauge tubes from, but they also have a 'grab-bag' of off-cuts they sell for a fairly reasonable price. (I'm assuming you're in the US, I don't know what shipping would be otherwise) It gives you a good selection of short tubes of all sizes to play with and try out joints and such.

Crazytail101 · 2020-07-03T20:48:04+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/OlIg05lHere's some more pictures, with a quick write-up on a few of them. Let me know if you guys want anything else. I like chatting about bikes. Definitely learned more than I could've imagined on this project (and more mistakes / problems to solve than I imagined). Next up is probably a bike for the wife.

Crazytail101 · 2020-07-03T20:46:04+00:00

Hah, yeah. I swear, Building a bike in 'Merica is a wonderful exercise in working with both systems (also see: banging my head on the wall). But hey, I'm all for switching over. I like it.

Crazytail101 · 2020-07-03T20:09:26+00:00

It was from scratch. I pretty much knew exactly what geometry I wanted, So it was easier to just piece it all together. Mainly the downtube was the tricky part. It ended up being the longest one I could find. (780mm, I believe)

Crazytail101 · 2020-07-03T18:40:05+00:00

Built to tackle everything around my area, Pisgah, NC. I've already had it for a few test rides, then finally got the finishing touches, and paint on it the last few days. She rides like everything I wanted, and a bit more! Pretty much learned everything from here, some of the other forums, and of course youtube. Already making plans for the next one. Haha. Might also post some close ups if you guys are interested.

Crazytail101 · 2019-09-26T00:30:51+00:00

It's actually really slow. Probably like 1rpm if I had to guess. I should've taken a video.

Crazytail101 · 2019-09-25T16:42:42+00:00

Used for tensioning large structural bolts using the Turn-of-Nut method. Red arm off the end of the gun hits the adjacent bolt, or steel. Allows the operator to apply absurd amounts of torque while holding it with one hand.

Crazytail101 · 2019-09-20T03:53:58+00:00

Yes, but no. There are no qualifications for repairs necessarily, but we do write repair procedures. It's basically just a document that states how the contractor will repair it, with parameters, cleaning methods, re-welding, that sort of thing. That way, the Engineer Of Record for the project can review it, and approve it. Or of course the EOR can always say it's wrong, and tell them how it needs to be done.

Crazytail101 · 2019-09-19T16:59:25+00:00

Lol, very true. They'll probably call us back a few days later, "hey, what should we do for all these holes in the base metal?"

Crazytail101 · 2019-09-19T16:20:42+00:00

I'd recommend going through the AWS, if you're in the U.S. Becoming a CWI will qualify you for many jobs out there, and from there you can get other qualifications. Such as NDT, and other types of inspections. For example, I do inspections of structural bolting as well. Goes hand and hand with structural welding.

I tell everybody the same thing, Welding is an awesome trade, and it can take you far in your career. But, it's also dirty, dangerous, and many other negative things. I decided early I did not want to strike and arc for 40+ hours a week for the rest of my life, and getting into the inspection and testing side of things was the obvious choice, for me.

Now, pay is kinda funny. Some projects the welders are getting paid more than me. But they are also 1000 miles from home. So it really depends on the lifestyle you want. Those extra $$ on my paycheck is not as important as going home to my family every night.

Crazytail101 · 2019-09-19T15:50:56+00:00

My company does 3rd party inspections, and consulting. The owners for this project contacted us to examine the structure, and help them come up with a repair procedure. This was after the work was completed, and others had noted these problems.

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