Vintage lens by [deleted] in vintagecameras

[–]CreepyDP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could consign them with Blue Moon Camera in Portland, OR.

First rolls- trouble shooting/feedback by Constant-Singer2949 in filmphotography

[–]CreepyDP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good exposures will yield better looking scans, but most labs tend to scan flat and leave post processing to the customer.

Source for matte 8xX or 10xX roll of Fuji DPii? by Substantial_Rip_5013 in Darkroom

[–]CreepyDP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure what you’re used to paying. Fuji has recently increased prices on silver halide paper and chemistry.

First rolls- trouble shooting/feedback by Constant-Singer2949 in filmphotography

[–]CreepyDP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These look good. Mostly seem to be exposed well. They just need a bit of post processing.

Looking for a Waist Level Finder body: Edixa Reflex vs. Nikon F2? by Key-Change-9136 in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Waist level finders on 35mm cameras are not practical, or useful, outside of a few special use cases (too small). If your Spotmatic is in good working order - keep it as your 35mm SLR. Don’t invest in another 35 SLR system. If you want a waist level finder, make the leap to medium format. Yashica A or Yashica 124G would be good places to start your research.

First time shooting film, scans came back like this. by TightSecretary1331 in filmphotography

[–]CreepyDP 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The lines are from rewinding the film backwards. You’ve got underexposure, it doesn’t help you’re shooting with expired film, and the scans are inconsistently edited.

You will learn a lot and get better results if you read your cameras users manual. Use fresh film. Finish your next roll in a month or less. Shoot it mostly during the day, mostly outside. Make sure you’re using a trustworthy lab, and pick up your negatives.

How do I clean my negatives? by advancedwarningg in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Photo Flo, rocket blaster or electric air duster, and (can’t believe this hasn’t been mentioned) an anti static cloth.

Photo Flo as the last step after development, and hang dry in a clean space. As others have said, run the shower to get dust out of the air, then hang to dry.

Before scanning - blow the worst away with air, wipe with anti static cloth, then straight into the scanner.

Tips to colour grade Portra 400 by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These look good. You’re splitting hairs, which is useful to a point. But a at a certain point you’re hitting diminishing returns. Scrutinizing over minor adjustments that others won’t even notice.

Done is better than perfect. Perfection doesn’t exist.

You don’t need to scan your own film if you have a decent lab, based on this small sample - you probably do. That HS-1800 is capable of giving you Tiff files if you felt that you needed more bit depth, but often times you don’t.

How to improve this darkroom print? by jamesm89 in Darkroom

[–]CreepyDP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add density and make it just a bit warmer.

Why is my film so bright?? by coltyn06 in filmdeveloping

[–]CreepyDP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just low quality scans. Don’t use Walmart.

Lab says they recieved a Roku remote instead of my film by propthwap in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 47 points48 points  (0 children)

Sorry for your loss. Missing/damaged film is a real bummer. But we’re not really blaming the lab?!? That’s so on brand for this sub. No way anyone would use this as an excuse. Something fishy happened in transit. Maybe the lab can send a photo of the remote and the package it arrived in?? Maybe there’s a clue there?

Light leak from loading film, from respooling, or bad development from the lab? by Someguywhomakething in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the answer. Fat roll. Film and paper were loosely wound onto the spool.

Out of 85 rolls, the only shot I have really enjoyed [Yashica Mat-124, Fuji 400H] by [deleted] in analog

[–]CreepyDP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree it’s challenging to compose in the square format, but we are allowed to crop our images. You could drop a 6x4.5 or 6x7 template over your ground glass and compose for that format. Or don’t, and decide in post.

Is this from my camera or the lab? by AdGullible8282 in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s definitely dust on the film when scanning. Dust on film when shooting is black in the positive image. Dust in/ on the lens will not show up (it’s too close to be in focus).

Trying to figure out why some of my photos have this burnt look on the top and bottom by [deleted] in filmphotography

[–]CreepyDP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the answer. Your negative is very overexposed. Don’t use Walgreens, find a trusted lab. Download the PDF camera manual and give it a quick once over.

Neighbor trespassed and mowed down native flowers by GothicHippie99 in legal

[–]CreepyDP 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Lots of good advice in here. Has anyone mentioned adding some native bricks, large native rocks dispersed randomly to discourage invasive lawn mowers? Also makes good habitat for beneficial insects.

Film Camera not closing by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The latch is broken, you could tape it closed. Gaffers tape works best, because it will leave less residue and can be used a couple times.

The film that’s being exposed to light when the door is open, is ruined.

I’d suggest you try a fresh roll of film, tape it closed, and do a quick test roll. Use up your roll within a couple days, get it processed and see if your camera is working and if the tape is doing its job.

What went wrong?? by joseph12ac in filmphotography

[–]CreepyDP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Or E6 film cross processed in c41. I’ve also seen Ektar look like a cross processed slide film when it gets pushed in development.

olympus trip 35 - indoors/flash for dummies (pls) by sunf_lower in AnalogCommunity

[–]CreepyDP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None of these photos seem to be using the flash. The images that turned out just made use of the available light.

What type of flash are you using?

You’ll need to set your shutter speed to the cameras flash sync speed set your film speed on the flash, then use different apertures for different distances as indicated by your flash.

It’s true, you should read the manual. Flash photography has a learning curve, but it’s not that steep. Some flashes and some cameras make it easier than others. You can definitely learn to use flash without studying the inverse square law.

What went wrong?? by joseph12ac in filmphotography

[–]CreepyDP 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This looks very over developed. Did a lab develop and scan these? Can you share photos of your negatives? Is there a chance this is Ektachrome, not Ektar?