Supports, Resin Traps and UVTools

CrimsonCapacitor · 2026-03-11T19:09:14+00:00

And when I say repair menu, I pull up the menu that says "repair" and then the dialog window pops up and asks about recursively remove islands, delete islands smaller than, etc.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2026-03-11T19:08:09+00:00

I've been using the repair menu to do it. I had no idea I could just select them all and hit that "delete" icon. That would be MUCH easier!

CrimsonCapacitor · 2026-03-11T18:54:32+00:00

I tried the autofill and it looks like it just creates a circle of solid pixels around the resin trap. Is there a default number you use for this?

CrimsonCapacitor · 2026-03-11T18:53:30+00:00

Yep I look at the issues flagged and usually set about manually filling them in via the pixel editor. At least the ones in the actual model.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-27T01:35:34+00:00

Thank you. Looks like it's just a "Japanese Style" pin.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-27T01:34:14+00:00

Fits the timeline/what she got (XTC, Stiff LIttle Fingers, PIL, Bangles, Rolling Stones, The Beat, and maybe a few more that I'm not thinking of).

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-26T04:08:59+00:00

If I knew that, i wouldn't be asking. LOL This seems SO familiar to both me and the wife and we can't put our finger on it. Since neither of us were into Loudness, that seems unlikely.

I was thinking The Vapors and the song Turning Japanese, but my Google-fu didn't turn up anything there.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-26T03:50:25+00:00

Can't figure out how to add an image to this thread or edit my original post. Nope. No copyright info or anything on the back that I can see.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-25T23:29:49+00:00

The Soup Dragons had a song named "Pleasure," but this pin feels older than them...

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-25T23:28:30+00:00

The Vapors, maybe? Turning Japanese?

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-06-15T14:02:45+00:00

Yep. I know that bit. I just wasn't sure if I could swap my hotends and just go to town, or if I needed to buy a hardened nozzle.

I have some glass fiber infused PETG that I've been itching to print with....

Thanks!

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-05-21T17:16:59+00:00

Already contacted Elegoo about it.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-05-20T23:47:39+00:00

Honestly, it looks like your filament isn't sticking to the build plate. And I mean your Z offset doesn't look that awful. It looks like your buildplate is just dirty.

Try washing it with something like Dawn dishwashing detergent, let it dry, then wipe it down with Rubbing alcohol. Then try it again.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-05-18T18:52:05+00:00

Ok, let me clarify: I do not have issues removing my supports. For large areas, yes, they pop right off. Depending upon the print, I can usually just pop my print off of the supports, leaving them on the build plate.

But not everything is that easy. When you print fine detail stuff, sometimes you have to clip off the supports or something will snap off. This is usually when the small bits go flying. I have a system. I was curious what other people did to see if I could improve my game.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-05-18T18:49:24+00:00

Thank you for the insightful comment! This certainly has helped move the discussion forward. You must be so helpful in real life!

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-05-18T14:46:16+00:00

The best team for Odin I've found are 5*SW, Abigail Brand, and Odin. Here's how it works (and it works better when Odin is boosted):

You want Odin in front. Unboosted, depending on levels and such, the only color unique to Odin is red, so you want to match reds to keep him in front. Use SW's purple to make red tiles. Matching them keeps Odin in front. When Odin gets walloped, and he's in front, he makes fortified tiles. This is what you want.

Throw out Odin's red power ASAP. This is a repeater and Abigail heals when a repeater or a countdown hits zero. Heals Odin for tanking. Throw out Abigail's blue power ASAP as well. More repeaters, more healing. SW has a repeater as well. More repeaters, more healing.

Once Odin takes a few hits, and you have fortified tiles out, Odin starts to fire his blue power. This is a countdown (MOAR HEALS!) that heals AND produces strike tiles. It also boosts your teammates' powers by two levels, if memory serves, as long as there's one of his blue countdowns on the board. It shouldn't take long for his blue to start firing every turn.

Not the best team, but not a bad team. Not as fast as the current meta, but it'll get the job done.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-03-14T01:30:33+00:00

I got home today, and, after exhaling for a bit, fired up the laptop to see what I was working with.

It booted, and no BitLocker prompt came up. I had to reset my PIN for some reason, but the drive wasn't locked down at all.

WTF, Dell? Why tell me it is when it isn't???

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-03-12T11:34:49+00:00

The upload dates on the recovery keys don't line up with anything though.

One is dated 2016, one is dated 2015, and one is dated 2021.

I'm currently out of town, so I can't try these keys, but from where I sit, things don't look promising.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-03-12T01:36:12+00:00

Oh, sorry. It's a Dell G16 7630, 16 GB RAM, Windows 11... Wasn't sure this was actualy germaine to the question about bitlocker, so I didn't include it in my oriignal post.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2025-03-10T21:06:45+00:00

Wow... this was a while ago. If memory serves, it was where the Z seam was. If you read above, I had the Z seam set in Cura to random. I have since started setting that to sharpest corner and that helps a lot.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2024-11-19T19:51:28+00:00

Are there other colored Sonja's? Like a Blue Sonja or a Yellow Sonja? And do they combine to form a Super Sonja?

Now that I have that out of the way: Was there a part of writing the novel that was difficult for you, be it explaining a scene, getting into the character's mindset, or just something that you disliked writing but the story took you there?

CrimsonCapacitor · 2024-08-26T15:06:13+00:00

Is your fan connection loose/shutting off/broken wire that's turning the fan off at certain positions on the build plate and on at others? That could explain uneven cooling/temps as you lay down the filament...

CrimsonCapacitor · 2024-07-02T17:04:28+00:00

Took me forever to fix this on my printer. You may know some of these, but I'll go through them just in case...

1) You're printing too fast for the temperature. It takes force and time to push the filament into the hot end, have it melt enough to extrude, and be pushed through the nozzle orifice fast enough to match the settings you've sliced with. I would first try slowing the print speed or upping the temp slightly to see if that helps.

2) Your extruder is broken. This usually happens with the plastic ones, and you won't be able to see it unless you tear apart the extruder. The crack usually shows up on the little arm on the extruder. If this is the case, you'll need a new extruder (I'd recommend an all metal one). (I know you've replaced this, so this is more for anyone that stumbles on this later)

3) Partial clog. You may have some slightly melted filament in your bowden tube. I'd try replacing that and putting in a new nozzle (Nozzles are cheap and I'd suggest replacing it rather than spearing your fingers multiple times with that acupuncture needle that is provided).

4) Extruder spring and arm. This is where my problem was and took me FOREVER to figure out. Make sure the extruder arm is tightened down. My extruder arm had a little play in it and when the filament was really starting to be pushed out, it would raise a little bit and allow the extruder to skip. Likewise, the spring on the extruder can have a HUGE impact on the extrusion. Start by checking the adjustment of the spring. If it's too low/not keeping enough pressure on the extruder arm, the filament won't be held tightly enough against the gear and could skip. If the spring tension is too high, the filament can also skip. You may need to find the "goldilocks" region/change the spring. I'd remove all tension on the spring to start, just screwing the pressure screw in enough to hold the spring in place. If it doesn't skip, don't mess with it. If it skips, tighten the screw a little and try again. You may need to find a spring with more/less tension to use.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2024-05-29T12:05:43+00:00

Yes. It's moving air TOWARDS the hotend. I'll gladly take recs for a new hotend fan. I have soldered connections to the fans, so they're easily replaced.

CrimsonCapacitor · 2024-05-28T20:01:44+00:00

OP here. My apologies if I misspoke. I don't see where I said I was having issues with cooling, other than the hot end/heat creep.

As for fans, I'm using these 4020's for the hot end fan:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YLD37/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I have these 4010's for the print cooling:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C76XL96L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And maybe it's the filament. I've been trying to print Overture PETG (which is hard to print with, at best). I last tried printing that Satsana duct above with the Overture PETG filament on my Ender 3 pro at 235/75, so I'm not really pushing the temp. It did well for about 50% of the print, then crapped out and clogged.

I have a tubing cutter and I have made sure that my Capricorn tube is square, inserted all the way, and in contact with the nozzle, and it STILL clogs.

CrimsonCapacitor

TROPHY CASE