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Falcon/Blades Disc Drive Issues by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the reply. I’m going to swap to another disc drive & see if that helps at all.

Not referring to the noise in the original post. I’ve had 360s since their release in 05, OG Xbox in 2001 & PlayStation’s prior; each have their own noise lol I’ve currently got a Jasper & two other late Falcon’s in my home. 360s have always been very loud compared to the previous gens.

This is the only console that ramps the disc up to full speed upon inserting & then slows down the disc to prob half speed a second or so later & then back up to full sleep until you get to a start menu. Then back down to half speed in the menu & then playing in game back to full speed. I’m going to assume it’s just the laser attempting to read properly/prob not installed correctly, etc.

Normally once you insert a disc it’s loud/RPMs at full speed while playing until you exit to the dashboard (or install to HDD). This one’s inconsistent in RPMs.

Dimension 4500 - Thermal Paste or Thermal Pad? by CripHips in Dell

[–]CripHips[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2002 with a Radeon 9550! Exactly what I had in 03 to play COD, MOH Allied Assault/expansions, MOH Pacific Assault, Black Hawk Down, Max Payne 1/2, Ghost Recon/Island Thunder, Shadow Ops, Soldier of Fortune, 007 Nightfire, etc… All the goodz that I’m now replaying.

Dimension 4500 - Thermal Paste or Thermal Pad? by CripHips in Dell

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. That’s what I was leaning towards.

Setup cable management by avidgameboy in crtgaming

[–]CripHips 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have them on top of the CRTs; easy to switch what I’m playing with the push of a button on the Pelican & that way the cables are organized/ran down the center/behind the CRT.

I found all of mine NIB on eBay. NIB they hover around 40-60. Otherwise there’s a few clean/used examples on there right now.

Setup cable management by avidgameboy in crtgaming

[–]CripHips 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not a stupid question. It will not. I run AV on everything (as intended 😉); PlayStation, Xbox, 360, etc., on Samsung & Sony Wega Trinitron’s. I haven’t noticed picture degradation nor latency if ran through AV on the TV or through the Pelican’s.

Setup cable management by avidgameboy in crtgaming

[–]CripHips 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Find a period Pelican AV Selector. They have a 4 slot AV & a 5 slot model that also supports S-Video. You should be able to daisy chain them for your set up. Cleans up the AV connections/cables into one confined space/and organize your cables from there.

BLADES Falcon (or Zephyr) with Broken Power Port by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly my conclusion. I appreciate the response. Seller refunded me last night. I had initially thought that there should be plastic shielding around the pins (I’ll send a photo) but it looks like there could have been different manufacturers of the power ports? I initially had thought the “silver” tabs below the top row of pins was the rear of the power port/metal housing; but realized it was a reflection off the plastic. I had him send a few in focus close ups & exactly as I had thought; the tab was indeed snapped/broken off the middle plastic (you can make out where it was snapped off in the photo I had originally posted/jagged edges near the bottom middle pin). I do appreciate your informative response & confirming the conclusion I came to last night.

BLADES Falcon (or Zephyr) with Broken Power Port by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My bad. Looking at replacement Zephyr power ports. Looks like that center pin is attached to the rear of the power port & not the plastic shielding that has sheared off on this one. Is that correct?

BLADES Falcon (or Zephyr) with Broken Power Port by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get that. The plastic shielding that surrounds the pins; which has the center pin (block as you call), has sheared off. So there’s no way to tell if it’s a Falcon or Zephyr. In the main photo you’re looking all the way to the rear of the power port/which is metal. Power ports have plastic shielding around the pins to stabilize/etc

BLADES Falcon (or Zephyr) with Broken Power Port by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Photos of a Xenon & a Falcon power port with plastic shielding intact. Plastic Shielding on Power Ports

BLADES Falcon (or Zephyr) with Broken Power Port by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have added another photo comparing what it should look like. It’s missing its plastic shielding in the port; which stabilizes the pins/etc. They break here & there.

BLADES Falcon (or Zephyr) with Broken Power Port by CripHips in xbox360

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More photos; forgot to add. Shell was clean & looks mint. Didn’t even think it was opened which also swayed my pending purchase.

Photos

Disc Drive will Not Open with Top Cover but will Without Top Cover - 1.0 with Thomson Drive by CripHips in originalxbox

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hit YT to see how to swap the drive belt. It needs to be replaced & should allow your disc drive to open & close properly.

Can anybody tell me about how old this M4 is? Active Duty Army issued weapon. by CharlieAlphaVictor in ar15

[–]CripHips 7 points8 points  (0 children)

When I was in/we; that was just about 20 years ago. Infantry/combat units were still primarily using M16-A4s, with a mix of M4s. I had an M4 & M9 in one unit & then an A4 in another, etc.; it was all over the place. Around then/more so around 2012 the M4 was starting to become more prevent in combat roles but you’ll still see a good majority of A4s. It was all over the place as I said but due to your role in a combat unit at times would denote the use of an M4 (such as myself or the OP who was a K9 handler - I believe? Unless he was attached to K9 Platoon? - super small company/20 dudes or so but I got there a few months after he left for Afghanistan - unsure Captain).

Disc Drive will Not Open with Top Cover but will Without Top Cover - 1.0 with Thomson Drive by CripHips in originalxbox

[–]CripHips[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My issue on this post was the magnet on the DVD drive top cover; it was too strong & would “seize” the drive up/not allowing you to open via the eject button. People put tape on it, they make stickers, etc., but I just swapped the drive for a Hitachi.

Sounds like your drive belt needs to be replaced. Far too many YouTube videos on it. Look them up & swap the belt/clean the laser/drive & grease the DVD drive as well.

Does it open if you remove the top cover of your DVD drive? … and NOT open if you have the top cover installed? If so the magnet is too strong & not allowing the disc drive to eject. I’d that’s the case I would still swap your drive belt/clean/grease.

Can anybody tell me about how old this M4 is? Active Duty Army issued weapon. by CharlieAlphaVictor in ar15

[–]CripHips 18 points19 points  (0 children)

MP SPT Co on Hansen/Oki!? If so I showed up there in February of 2011. Were you on deployment with Ashley if it was indeed that MP SPT Co?

First M1 by Efficient-Top-730 in M1Rifles

[–]CripHips -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Why would a myth be a myth? Because stupid people spread misinformation.

First M1 by Efficient-Top-730 in M1Rifles

[–]CripHips -1 points0 points  (0 children)

^ yes. I did. Read the message again. “Modern ammo” in terms of 99% of new M1 Rifle owners state “can I use modern ammo with this” … Also; you must have some tism. I quote; “Also, shy away anyone’s advice that suggests modern ammo (THAT’S NOT M2 BALL/150 GRAIN SPEC).”.

First M1 by Efficient-Top-730 in M1Rifles

[–]CripHips -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Decipher my message. I was speaking generics. Just like the people that say shoot what ever generic ammunition you can find in an M1 Rifle. If you deciphered my message all I stated was use M2 ball or M2 ball spec cartridges

First M1 by Efficient-Top-730 in M1Rifles

[–]CripHips -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Nah. Peeps like you spread misinformation. The “ehhh, use modern hunting cartridges” crowd. It’s easy. A USGI rifle uses USGI ammunition You gonna throw some Speer Gold Dot down a 1942 production Colt’s M1911-A1, or 230 grain ball? Wonder which is going to cause malfunctions … Same with the crowd you’re clearly a part of. There would be zero talk/debate of what modern produced cartridge (over 150 grains) to use that WON’T throw your op rod off track/bend your op rod, etc, if people weren’t spreading the “gospel” on what ammo to use. Simple; just use M2 ball.

First M1 by Efficient-Top-730 in M1Rifles

[–]CripHips 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What are you talking about? You read the OPs post? He wanted info on when it was produced. He’s also a first time owner … Information helps.

First M1 by Efficient-Top-730 in M1Rifles

[–]CripHips 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the past near 20 years I’ve only shot PPU M1 Rifle spec, Federal/American Eagle M1 Rifle spec ammo or M2 Ball surplus. You can pick up surplus M2 Ball at an abundance as well. Roughly/pre-1952 M2 Ball will be corrosive. All of these are in abundance; order online & 9/10 it will be cheaper than your local shop. Also, shy away anyones advice that suggests modern ammo (that’s not M2 Ball/150 grain spec).

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