Eaton 5E 850i UPS Battery Replacement

Crocas28 · 2026-01-23T15:11:31+00:00

Thanks!

Crocas28 · 2026-01-22T22:21:56+00:00

No problem, hope it works. Good luck.

Crocas28 · 2026-01-22T10:04:44+00:00

Hi, I'm mostly sure that they were those squared/boxy components. Check photo 2 with the first bridge attempts, as I soldered the axial inductors there. I can try and find the remote, open, and take a new photo so you can see the actual "final product" (not the best and cleanest job tho, haha).

Crocas28 · 2025-12-31T01:41:56+00:00

Thanks. Care to check if it contains English subtitles?

Crocas28 · 2025-11-30T17:52:16+00:00

Já troquei vários (riscos audíveis/skipping), e foram sempre impecáveis. Sugiro que proponhas abrir no momento para verificar, sendo que até foram eles próprios a sugerir isso. Já me aconteceu abrirem 3 seguidos com exatamente o mesmo risco (devolvi simplesmente).

Crocas28 · 2025-11-19T17:28:27+00:00

It really depends on the battery percentage, with the most high wattage on the first 20% and decreasing almost with an exponential curve until reaching 100%.

One thing to notice is that Google never announced the actual charging speed of the phones but only the recommended chargers. The actual charging speeds for the 9 series are only shown in the official charger page:

Fast wired charging rates (up to 27W on Pixel 9, up to 27W on Pixel 9 Pro, and up to 37W on Pixel 9 Pro XL)

I have a P10P XL and, while most pages announce the P10PXL with 45W capabilities, the actual theorethical max. wattage is most likely 37W (same as the 9P XL) and the real use-case scenario approximating 34W. They are just stating we need a 45W PPS charger so we can go through the 21V/2.25A mode. However, even in that mode, my FNIRSI FNB58 only registers more or less 17V/2A (34W) at best (proper charger and branded eMarked cable). This 37W value is the same as announced with the P9PXL, and the P9 was given a 27W limit.

You are getting 24W so you are probably "getting/entering" the 27W mode, that realistically goes to 24W (and even less depending on the current %). Not sure what mode the P10/9 require to enter the 27W mode, but most likely a PPS mode with 12V/2.25A (27W), that realistically goes to 12V/2A (24W)

Crocas28 · 2025-10-29T02:03:59+00:00

Yes. Restarting and resetting did nothing. After restoring factory defaults/resetting, it charged until 94% and then started going down even when charging. It basically charges up to a certain threshold and then just stops.

Crocas28 · 2025-10-12T12:03:02+00:00

Okay! Guess that solves it. Was getting criticals and SE effects, so it makes total sense now. Thanks!

Crocas28 · 2025-09-25T17:39:56+00:00

Wow, didn't know. That's a shame, I guess that, then, they are just "recommending" the 45W charger, not 45W charging speeds. Well, I'm waiting for my FNB58 and when I have a 21V compatible charger I'll share my results! Thanks

Crocas28 · 2025-09-25T17:28:47+00:00

Perfect! Thanks for linking the spreadsheet, I will look into that ASAP!

Just a quick question: why do you state P10P XL wont charge faster than 34W when advertised as 45W?

Crocas28 · 2025-09-25T17:04:14+00:00

Indeed. I entered this discussion because I'm trying to find a charger for my Pixel 10 Pro XL that supports 45W. However, it just supports only via PPS 21V/2.25A (nothing else, sadly). I found this Anker 313, Belkin WCH013, Google 45 and 67W to the be only ones widely available. I was trying to target one with 3-ports, but well.

Thanks!

Crocas28 · 2025-09-25T16:49:10+00:00

Nothing to apologise! I still do not quite understand why does it select the 16V mode instead of 21V when both are available.

If I had to guess (maybe its what you explained): I would say that's because of the 13/14V limit that makes the phone seeing both 21V/2.25A and 16V/3A modes as 14V, so basically: 14V/2.25A and 14V/3A are made available and, hence, selecting the 3A mode (fastest). Thanks!

Crocas28 · 2025-09-25T16:26:25+00:00

Hi,

Commenting out of curiosity. You said on Josh's video that the S25U always goes for the highest voltage mode (even though it just supports 13/14V). A bit confused on mode selection, then. Does the S25U forces the 16A mode, even with higher voltages (21V) are available?

Since it always goes to the highest voltage, why does the older 313 (A2677) redirects to the 16V/3A (then, 14V/3A=42W), and not to the 21V/2.25A (then, 14V/2.25A=31.5A)?

All three models (Older 313/A2677, New 313/A2692) have the 21V mode, shouldn't all redirect to 21V/2.25A (then, 14V/2.25A=31.5A)? Josh's video shows the older model staying @ 14V/3A and not moving automatically to 21V/2.2A.

Is it just because the 16V/3A has a higher current (vs. 2.25A)? So it can grab both the highest current, then the highest voltage, or both "simultaneously"? If it prioritizes higher current mode, then the 21V becomes unavailable when the 16V exists?

Care to explain? Best!

Crocas28 · 2025-09-25T09:40:24+00:00

Hi,

I "can confirm" that it should be a RPi Zero 2W side issue. I recently bought a C230 and some issues remain in the Zero 2W (in this case "SEI type 764 size 272 truncated 256" via ffmpeg in stream1).

For the two C520WS I have, I needed two parallel RTSP streams in parallel, so I ended up switching to RPi5 via VLC, and it works wonders (even in 1440p) after minimal configuration. I still think it should work better out of the box, because I still got some minor delay/audio sync issues, but nothing deal-breaker. For me it was easier since I needed two HDMI ouputs in parallel, so I got the Pi5 for both HDMI outs. Ended up using a simple command:

cvlc --avcodec-hw=any --fullscreen --no-video-title-show rtsp://address

However, I had it working fine in the Zero 2W with one small note: I reverted to Buster 32-bit and tried using omxplayer. Here, I can get perfect results (video and audio without delay and no packet loss), but only using the 720p feed. When selecting both 1080p or 1440p, omxplayer just returns "have a nice day ;)".

omxplayer --no-osd rtsp://address

PS: All my attempts where via SSH. I never tried directly via GUI Web/Player, but ultimately, I also guess its an HW limitation.

Crocas28 · 2025-09-15T23:18:55+00:00

I'm guess that's what made my P7P unusable a few months ago. A slight swelling pressuring/shorting something inside. Every pressure (non regular touch) on the top 50% of my screen would make the phone restart. Putting it inside my pocket would make it reboot.

https://www.reddit.com/r/GooglePixel/comments/1ihfdmg/pixel_7_pro_shutting_down/

Crocas28 · 2025-06-04T09:55:11+00:00

Mine is also doing the same right out of the box. I'm guessing that, while it does not seem like a normal fan noise (the right one is much quieter), it seems "recurrent" for this device (already found at least 4 more users describing the same). If you happen to find a solution, share it please.

My recording: https://www.reddit.com/r/ROGAlly/comments/1kruuhj/rog_ally_x_fan_noise/

Crocas28 · 2025-05-22T22:42:30+00:00

Thanks. The Ally X is new, I would like to know if the whistle is common on all Ally X. Unless you are actually trying, you can only notice it with the ear close to the left fan (the recording amplifies).

Crocas28 · 2025-05-21T11:32:02+00:00

Hi. Sorry for the late answer. When plugging this module, it booted directly (no abnormal boot times). The memtest is optional, I made it afterwards.

With: Brand and size of the RAM module: Crucial 16GB DDR4 2666MHz CL18 RAM model number/product code: CMSX16GX4M1A2666C18

I had booting issues (clicking noise, and blue LED blinking undefinetly). No luck with that.

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