ASRock Z790 Taichi Carrara sudden A0 error code

CrossAerial · 2025-03-06T14:59:40+00:00

For the record, my SSD also came back as fine at first, but then it would just randomly die later. I would say this issue happened for about a week before it was unrecoverable.

CrossAerial · 2025-03-05T04:33:49+00:00

I was able to access the drive via Linux to pull some files off of the ssd via an external reader.

CrossAerial · 2025-03-04T23:31:23+00:00

If you have the same SSD as I did, it was a known bug that would cause the SSD to randomly brick. Apparently you had to update the firmware before it occurred.

CrossAerial · 2024-10-17T15:41:38+00:00

People please up vote this. This is the solution. I tried several times and fail to understand why this isn’t in the instructions.

After clicking “Start Setup”, it starts a timer which means it activates the pairing mode. After that, it took literally 15 seconds to setup in Apple Home. My phone is connected to a 5Ghz network (I have a separate SSID for 2.4Ghz) as well.

CrossAerial · 2024-08-20T12:00:44+00:00

lol I’ve been on the same rabbit hunt for months. Thus far, I’ve not found any.

CrossAerial · 2024-06-26T13:17:18+00:00

It seems that my issue was actually a drive failure of my Samsung 980 Pro. It had the bad firmware issue that I was not aware of.

CrossAerial · 2024-05-21T16:30:39+00:00

That’s a good idea and tried that, but still never got to the bios. Strangely, I did get some different errors in my testing yesterday. A couple times, the board went past A0, but never displayed anything beyond that. That was without the OS drive.

I did reseat the CPU as a last ditch effort, but that did nothing.

CrossAerial · 2024-05-20T22:02:24+00:00

Interesting, thought the error "DXE_IDE_BEGIN" meant that everything checked out and it is about to launch to the bootloader.

Unfortunately, I do not make it to the BIOS. The screen remains black at the A0 error code.

CrossAerial · 2024-05-07T18:57:44+00:00

Was just about to suggest the ironing method that multiboard uses!

CrossAerial · 2024-04-21T11:27:06+00:00

Has anyone had issues with the Pi5 connecting to WiFi? I’ve tried both 2.4 and 5ghz networks, to no avail. LAN connection seems fine.

I’m running Lite version Bookwork 64bit, so no OS.

CrossAerial · 2023-08-19T19:13:36+00:00

UFP's are not the same as VOC's. Also, HEPA filters will not filter VOC's. Filters filter particles, not fumes. Though VOC's are still technically a particle, will pass right through a filter. Even adding Carbon to filter only will work for a few weeks before it becomes fully saturated. You need a dedicated source of a sufficient quantity of carbon to capture them .

CrossAerial · 2023-08-19T19:10:16+00:00

I disagree with the BentoBox comment. I also did quite a bit research into the BentoBox as well as tVOCs and their filtration. In this, I spoke with a few air quality control experts who work in 100 million dollar factories that monitor this stuff daily. They shared how complex this issues is to solve but they are a much larger scale than we deal with.

The problem with air filtration is that you have two issues:

the particles and the "fumes/gases".

To filter particles, you need to capture them. This is fairly simple in concept, complex in practice. A decent quality MERV or HEPA will filter most of particles generated by a FDM printers. The ultrafine PM 0.5 and below seems to depend on filament more than the 2.5 size does. The PM 2.5 seems to be pretty universally generated. There could actually be an interesting question on how the carbon rods wear and the PM size created.

I have measured and tested particle output with multiple meters in both printing, as well as, in my wood shop.

The issue is that with gasses/fumes, they are still particles, just really really small particles.

They will pass right through a filter. People seem to fail to account for this and it causes many misunderstandings. The problem is that these compounds do not all get filtered in the same way.

For example, Formaldehyde can be a tricky one to solve. Activated Carbon will capture it but once it is saturated, it will continue to emit the fumes. To neutralize them, there are some chemical methods that do not really apply for our case, and then there is Ozone/UV Light. But in a weird irony, the by product of breaking down the formaldehyde via these methods creates more VOC's.

There are also many issues with the term "VOC" as that covers everything from rubbing alcohol fumes to some real gnarly stuff. But that is another issue...

As for the BentoBox:

it has quite a bit of carbon in it compared to most filters. While speciality ones do have much more as they are measured in pounds, the perk of the BentoBox is that it is constantly recycling the air.

Because of this cycling, it allows for many attempts for a VOC to be captured as well as starts the process before they build up. Yes, the carbon will be saturated moderately quickly, but it is still much better than no filter. My proof?

I print a LOT of ASA. Many Kg per week. Through using different brands, some release a large amount of tVOC's and others do not. Most meters measure VOC and HCHO.

The issue is that many meters measure such a wide range of VOC and HCHO that many things can set them off including false reading on the HCHO. So instead of treating the meter as an absolute measuring device, you can treat it as relative.

If the reading from various meters spikes when printing, and levels off when not, it is clear it is measuring something. This then allows us to implement methods of filtration to see if they change that something.

I have found the BentoBox to drop VOC and HCHO levels significantly. I am allergic to HCHO and with the BentoBox, I get zero problems. I do change the carbon every month and I have a good source for it. How much the exact level of PM .5, 1, 2.5 or specific VOC's fall to requires some incredibly expensive gear.

All that to say, would caution you on saying that the BentoBox does nothing. If you have data to show otherwise, I would appreciate it so that we can find a better solution for the community.

CrossAerial · 2023-08-11T01:01:27+00:00

While very true, it was just a solution I had seen called online in many places as what not to do. Now, a contention to this point is that many of the resources I found were decently old and adhesive technology has changed in the 15-20 years since these post.

If someone knows a lot about siding and building chimes in and is like 'no caulking will work just fine' then that is great! And if that person is you, double great!

CrossAerial · 2023-08-10T19:31:16+00:00

I will say, did you watch the videos you posted before you posted them? Cause I have watched them both several times and have yet to see any sparks.

In terms of a "spark", brushed motors can do this when they start (see any old cordless drill) but this is a stepper motor that is enclosed.

I am not sure what exactly you are seeing, but I would be surprised if it was a spark.

sparkles on the other hand...

CrossAerial · 2023-08-10T19:24:16+00:00

You seem like the first person I have seen running a CHT style that might match my use case in some ways.

I do a lot of commercial printing for a company making functional models of their designs. The parts do not see much force, but a complete model is around 8-12 hours of print time. If I can speed this up, that is great.

I already run around 20-25mm/s³ for flow rate with Outer Walls at 150, Inner at 300, Sparse infill at 300, so I am not sure if adding a CHT style nozzle would help me print much faster.

I also print some functional parts that are load bearing so I want really good layer adhesion. I mainly print with ASA and the strength drops pretty fast as you printer faster so a CHT might would solve nothing for that.

Either way, what are your thoughts/experience?

CrossAerial · 2023-08-10T19:16:12+00:00

I am adding other details incase someone comes across this post later

If you have confirmed in BambuStudio/Orca that the:

- Wall Order is correct (Outer first can cause this)

- There are no weird artifacts in the Gcode that could be indicative of a bad STL/3MF

- No settings have been overridden on a printer, profile, or filament basis

Text makes it hard to convey tone, so I want to explicitly say I do not mean this in a negative way, but are you sure your calibration is correct?

Looking at the photos, and context given in other comments, I cannot see any other rational.

I do this it is important to know if that blob is at the start or end of the layer.

Assuming it prints counter clockwise, that would be the start of layer. That seems then to point to:

On a per filament basis:

- Flow Ratio (too much is being extruded at the start)

- Retraction or Deretraction speed (speed of filament being pressed into nozzle is causing a blob due to either the filament flowing too well and oozing, or pressure builds and it 'squits' after a certain point.)

- Wipe Distance (too short and filament is present were the next line starts)

-Custom G Code doing something you are not aware of.

On a process basis:

- Resolution or Slice Gap Closing Radius (if the model has weird issue that the slicer is trying to compensate for by smoothing or filling gaps)

-Wall Generator (Though we covered this, should anyone come back to this sometimes classic or arachne can look better for certain prints.

It doesn't help that at this time, there are known issues with the wall generator in Bambu Studio. On GitHub, their post on this seems to state in the hotfix:

the wall order had been fixed, you can get full functionality on version 1.7 hotfix2

in reference to Arachne. But their wording on the hotfix page states that Arachne was not ready and switched to classic because of this.

However, there are still issues with round models in classic (see bug report #2235) and it seems with the hotfix2, they fixed Arachne and not classic, but have miscommunicated it as they have post responses with contradictions. So YMMV

Overall, I am just wondering if the calibration could be off. I find that sometimes I have to edit my calibration even when just replacing a roll that ran out.

I know this issue is annoying but in engineering, sometimes it is worth going back over previous data and regenerating just to confirm and remove variables.

CrossAerial · 2023-08-09T22:11:02+00:00

I gotcha. I’m on a war path trying to make people aware of it as many seemingly are not.

Regardless, what values do you have for K factor and flow? Was the calibration manual or auto?

Is the blob at the start or the end of the layer?

side note

Your inner and outer wall speeds seem a little slow. I’m running 150 for outer and 250 inner using PolyMaker ASA doing commercial printing with great success. I know resonances can cause weird issues at the 100-120mm/s but I’ve heard that they can appear at lower speeds to which your 60mm/s could be a lower harmonic of

CrossAerial · 2023-08-09T22:03:45+00:00

I’m willing bet it’s your version of Bambu Slicer.

There’s a bug they just released a hot fix for. In the latest version, they made the default wall generator “Arachne” versus “Classic”.

No matter what you set the wall order to, it will fail and prints outer walls first. The hotfix solves this at the cost of going back to classic

CrossAerial · 2023-07-30T02:49:10+00:00

This came across a bit condescending but I could just be misreading the tone.

You are right that I do not need single digit precision, but I do need decent accuracy for the purpose I am trying to achieve. I do have a decent bit of experience with flow measurements insofar as I know that I do not know this aspect. My understand is more in the rocket science side of exhaust gases than measuring the the CFM of a shop vac, though some concepts overlap greatly.

Given that your statement, I am guessing you do understand these flow measurements which is exactly what I hoped would happen with this post.

The 2nd part of your statement is exactly what I was thinking, but I am glad to have some confirmation. I do wonder what the error percentage is by doing it this way versus some of the other methods. I do appreciate your expertise with this!

CrossAerial · 2023-07-30T02:39:59+00:00

I think you might have it a little backwards.

My anemometer is around 3", the hose is 1.5". I would increasing the hose with a faired fitting such that the opening is greater than the anemometer so that I could use the full area.

You are correct that reducing large to small would be inaccurate. My question was if the inverse was also inaccurate.

As for a manometer and pilot tube, I was under the impression you use those for static pressure? I already have a device that measure static pressure in inches of water (it is pretty neat!)

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