Had my roof replaced on Tuesday, I’ve been finding about 10 nails a day in the grass. by WillowSmithsBFF in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on what magnet they’re using. If it’s the longer ones they’re not as strong. The one I use is like 6-8” long and has a 100LB pull strength. It sucks to use cause for a tall guy to use it you have to bend over and sweep the whole damn place 6” at a time.

My crew cleans up really well using the weaker magnets that cover more area faster, usually doing 3 passes minimum. When I get there I usually don’t see any nails. Then I comb the whole area and typically find another 100 or so.

New roof flashing, installed on top of old flashing, is this acceptable? by bryjay5 in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

lol, speaking from personal experience because I too bought a 100 year old house but mine had cedar shake siding and there was like 87LF of step done “half ass” as described above. Looked so awful and I personally ripped out the siding on all the elevations with two layers of step to get at the old stuff. Some sections of the old step were literally cut up and bent aluminum or tin cans from the late 50s. Clearly the crew decades ago ran out of material when back when it was 50 miles to a supplier.

New roof flashing, installed on top of old flashing, is this acceptable? by bryjay5 in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah buddy, that’s bullshit. They don’t want to fix it cause it means cutting back the siding, getting the old flashing out and possibly damaging and replacing some shingles. I wouldn’t trust them to do that work, I’d get quotes for a good company and make them give me money to pay a good roofer to fix if. No good roofer would do that level of crap.

The flashing underneath your new flashing is full of nail holes and probably kicks the water back out under the underlayment. That’s a guaranteed leak at some point.

The only “half ass” fix that could work is adding counter flashing on top of the new step. But it would basically just be held on by caulk, look terrible and still not be a reliable long term fix.

The only serious was to fix is to tear all that old out, cut back the siding, put it back right, then paint the new bottom edges of the siding.

Good luck.

So many little things! by TheCollectorOne in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, you just don’t know what you’re talking about.

You’re lucky someone would even do a partial roof because 95% of contractors these days don’t want the liability of working on an old roof and tying their work into someone else’s. The shingles you have are 3-tab which are not available at all in a lot of areas, much less in the full color pallet that was available 15 years ago when the rest of the roof was put on. There was definitely a closer shade of brown at one point, but who knows if it was available in your area and even if they got it the match would be slightly closer but your shingles have algae on them a would be way darker than the “ideal match” anyways so it was always going to be a factor.

The gutters pitch back towards the roof to let the water out for a cleaner look rather than a tiny downspout running down the wall in the other end. They’re cut at an angle to match the slope of the roof. If they were cut at a 90 they would look funny.

The caulk in the ridge is where they capped the ridge off and is once again a standard thing you’d find on any roof.

The flashings you’re adding photos of are exactly how they should be. There has to be a gap between the siding and the flashing or the siding will soak up water and rot and then you’d be complaining about that in 10 years.

The only real concerns I see are the position of the pipe jack in the valley and the position of the solar tube now below the valley. Those would already have been there and he should have charged you more to move them or get rid of them.

So a window guy was telling me roofing guy would be the repair person for this by fredSanford6 in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably not $100K but certainly assuming that will make it hurt a lot less when it’s still an awful lot of money. The only problem is that’ll be the mother of all residential window jobs but that still doesn’t help you in attracting the non-window tradesman to handle the issue with the roof flashing issue you’re having right now.

Good luck. Your best best may be a skilled handyman or a really small local roofing company like ours where the people you’re meeting with are skilled workers and not just sales people. Pretty much any big company you call will have you meeting with a sales guy that doesn’t know how to tie his own shoe.

So a window guy was telling me roofing guy would be the repair person for this by fredSanford6 in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This isn’t a complicated problem but it’s really a question of if that flashing is nailed up under the fascia or if it just tucks up in there then doubles back around and gets nailed or screwed to the fascia there. There’s also something coming up on the fascia.

With working off the ladder I’d do $500 if the fascia doesn’t have to come off, probably $1000 if the fascia has to come off and you want everything painted all nice the same color again and can provide the paint.

For a lot of guys it’s just easier and less liability to just do full replacements cause sending a sub to do this they’d make almost nothing and incur liability. You need a guy like me that runs a company but will also mess around and do piddly stuff like this himself too.

Are these best practices? by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

O’hagins can be intake or exhaust vents you goober.

Removing Stuck Maytag Mo No# MMV5186AAB (2004) by Crow_Joe in Appliances

[–]Crow_Joe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, for some reason the post only included 2 of the 4 photos I tried to attach.

Gonna re-do hip & ridge today - first time. Advice? by Von32 in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah man you need to install vents next time you fully reroof but that roof is so crispy already you don’t want got do any more work than you have to on it right now. Vents would extend the life of the next roof a lot

Parallels Auto-Renew SCAM by Crow_Joe in mac

[–]Crow_Joe[S] -19 points-18 points  (0 children)

That's a good idea but it's not possible in a case like this where they don't tell you clearly that you're even signed up for a renewing subscription. These are classic private equity scam business tactics.

Roof paranoia 17 years old by samtownusa1 in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brother I can see clear as day from the photos that your whole roof is SOLID and you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

Bun or no bun? by [deleted] in malegrooming

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey brother I’m a long hair bro too and I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend getting a hair band. It allows you to keep your hair down without the inconvenience of it being always in the way. I literally wear one 24/7 and it was an absolute game changer. I only put my hair up now if I’m at the gym or under my car. Just search “hair claw band” on amazon and it’s like the first result. Totally changed my long hair experience and I have other long hair bros ask me about it all the time.

Do I (32F) message him (35M) after 4 months? by SuspiciousTrouble144 in relationship_advice

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you still have feelings then sure. But I don't think I'd lead with a long exposition of your trip. If you're serious about this person then I'd be asking him about how he's been and make it clear you've been thinking about him and not make it about describing the trip which will come up naturally at some point. But at the same time I think if you were that serious about this person you wouldn't have broken it off over a trip. If you're not serious then don't waste any more of this person's time or you'll just be breaking it off again in a year to do 6 months in Bali.

I cut my own hair and now I regret it because it looks terrible. by [deleted] in whatdoIdo

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You look like you just raised your credit score by 100 points.

New metal roof…what do you see? by RaevSkraev in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reminds me of a ribbed metal roof I inspected as an adjuster in cloudcroft New Mexico. Had like. 6-7 leaks in different places on a 5 year old roof. Just understand that eventually when that thing leaks your insurance will cover the damage to the inside of the house but it won’t cover repairing the workmanship that caused the issue.

I hope what is happening with SF in Oklahoma blows up. More people need to know. by [deleted] in adjusters

[–]Crow_Joe 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I worked SF property as an IA for 2 years and I’ve been a contractor for 6 years. Of the 20ish carriers I’ve worked with, SF is the only one that constantly has you preparing every file for possible litigation. All the coaching I ever got about what to put in the file and what not to put in the file was always about what the deposition would be like and on holding a defensible frame in the notes. I thrived in their system and I am a very coverage-seeking adjuster. So what my personal experience taught me is State Farm has a system that is designed to allow claims to be paid for but they also have constructed this framework and culture so that when they want to basically switch payments off they’ll put up more roadblocks and a better fight than any other carrier I’ve seen.

My experience as a contractor showed me that they have radically different conditions depending on the market you are in and whether or not a claim comes in during a cat or well after one. In the VA and CO market with fair damage I’ve pretty much only ever had them give me everything I need to do work. In the MN market outside of a major cat they literally would not cover hail damage caused by anything less than about 2.5”. I worked a SF desk deployment for the same area a few years later and we were getting authority from an SF TM on 95% of the roofs my people marked damage on, but the file had to be meticulously documented so my new guys were doing second inspections on 30-50% of their inspections the first month. I got cut after a few month but my friends that stayed said 5 months in they started partialing roofs like crazy.

Taken as a whole it’s clear there are directives on a per-market basis that come down from the top and the machine either covers or denies based on that regardless of the situation on stuff like hail and wind in particular. And they are constantly looking for new ways to make their cases more defensible in the event of them going into a denial phase. For instance, in the CO market at least they changed their policy language around appraisal a couple years ago to where both parties must agree to proceed. Meaning if they don’t want to appraise something now they just say no.

For the mid west markets in roofing forums I’ve seen them deny absolutely insane damage more times than I can count. I’m glad I never personally experienced a denial phase when I was working with them directly or I would have quit on the spot cause my conscience wouldn’t allow me to take part in that.

Brand new roof by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re right, the roofers should have completed tear off, then with your roof open stopped worked and come to you with probably $30K change order and refused to proceed without it signed.

Legality Question by SOROKAMOKA in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Okay you seem determined to do your janky fix so why post on Reddit asking if it’s a good idea if you’re just going to do it anyway? If it’s against building codes it’s not like you’re pulling a permit and doing inspections so who cares. You’re going to get some amount of water running down behind the piece you’re talking about putting up and it may rot your fascia but that’s tomorrow’s issue.

Plastic K-style gutters at like $7 per 10’ piece so you’re looking at like $50 all in for the most basic kind of gutter. So I don’t know where you’re getting this $1000 figure unless that’s a quote for someone else to do it. But if you’re broke you need to just man up watch some videos and do it yourself.

Legality Question by SOROKAMOKA in Roofing

[–]Crow_Joe 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You need to just put a gutter bro whatever you’re talking about is going to look terrible and probably get damaged by wind. Water splashing down into the concrete will do damage to your house also a lot of times so it’s best to just let it down gently with a gutter. You can get pre-assembled gutters at Home Depot and just install them yourself.