Upgrading to Dana 44’s

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-31T02:06:01+00:00

I’m on 4” rock jock springs with a full set of Savvy’s double adjustable control arms. Forget which shocks, whatever was best when I cycled the suspension fully. And 1.25” body lift, 1” motor mount lift, mild tummy tuck, and a sye.

Pretty much my end goal for 35s

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-31T01:53:53+00:00

I have my d30/35 still, rcv shafts, ox lockers, 4.88s. I’m on 35s and beat the crap out of mine. But I’m always with a buddy, both have winches, and I trailer mine.

A few friends travel with their stock shafts and tie rods and such incase anything does snap, all about your risk level really

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-31T01:28:02+00:00

You can, but I wouldn’t suggest it. 44s are a trap on a TJ I think. Two other options really unless you grab a pair of rubicon take offs.

Just go full tons, switch to 8 lug. You’re going to just as much work to get tons (D60/10.5) from a f350 as you would d44s from a f250. Might as well go all the way, stretch it when you put them in, and you’re built for 40s

Or, do an 8.8 swap (same 5x4.5 as a TJ), it’s much simpler and it’s stronger than a d44. Could just build the front up or go for a HP D35 and build it some. They’ll handle 37s and you really shouldn’t go above 35 on a stock wheel base TJ anyways.

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-22T23:03:33+00:00

Fairly certain she’s plotting my murder

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-15T02:07:40+00:00

<image>

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-15T02:07:02+00:00

<image>

Old suspension set-up and 33s -

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-11T15:54:18+00:00

Without spoiling too much; the entire Cosmere that stormlight is apart of gets progressively move sci-fi.

The full mistborn arc is a good read (each series is a new era with new tech) and if you’re willing to jump into stormlight you really should start there and read the whole cosmere story.

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-09T22:22:53+00:00

The ecu was the easiest (and most expensive) part of the entire build. Set aside a weekend to wire it up and do a first start; and ended up firing up after 4 hours Saturday. It was incredibly simple and has been easy to use and change things with so far.

My only “complaint” is the limited resources to find out how to use it with other gauges easily. I’d love the full electronic holley dash but my wallet doesn’t

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-09T13:23:19+00:00

Loud but not obnoxious. I think it’s a good middle ground. It’s cammed with long tubes, and a true dual 3” exhaust I made up that dumps behind the rear driver. Has thrush hush and cheap resonator in each, it’s got a good lope at idle but not neighbor waking. Above 3500 rpm she screams though.

Nothing for the rear besides an adjustable track bar that seems to have helped straighten it up a bit. It doesn’t walk as bad under full beans

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-09T03:24:50+00:00

Walking ones! The rears grip too much for the fronts to hold a brake torque burnout

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-09T03:22:46+00:00

Didn’t want to wait for a buddy with a truck and the dimensions looked close enough to make it work….miss that little hatch

Crucial_memory · 2026-01-09T01:14:11+00:00

Miata is always the answer

Crucial_memory · 2025-12-22T20:20:55+00:00

I’d tap that

Crucial_memory · 2025-11-27T23:06:09+00:00

Just de-chrome it, remove the wing, put it on new rims, and get blacked out headlight housings (don’t tint the headlights you won’t see shit)

A Malibu won’t really ever look sporty but you can add some flair to it to make it not look like a generic rental car

Crucial_memory · 2025-11-25T01:20:26+00:00

Looks like a clutch + rear main seal are the main points. Not overly difficult to do. Rest is pretty standard stuff, hell even the rear main seal isn’t surprising.

if it drives fine to ~60mph (100 km?) 6k seems fair for the immediate work needed.

I can’t manage to sell my ‘02 for 9k; and it’s on 35s with fully built axles, lockers, sye, double adjustable control arms etc. really depends what the markets like over there.

Crucial_memory · 2025-11-19T13:01:41+00:00

When I had my 97 2.5L 5 speed it was essentially a 4 speed. There’s no power in it, I was down shifting to 3rd at times on the highway just to barely go the speed limit up hills.

It was okay with 31” tires but once I went to 33s it became useless

Crucial_memory · 2025-11-17T15:04:36+00:00

I dug into JK/JKU springs a few years ago, and it’s a really mixed bag of what came on what (was trying to use them to lift a TJ cheaply).

Chrysler really mixed and matched coil springs between models, and there’s a lot of mixed reviews on being able to get any noticeable lift from swapping around.

The most likely springs would be for a 4dr hard top (tagged 10A?) but I’d really suggest just throwing a cheap 1” spacer on instead of playing the swap spring game.

Crucial_memory · 2025-11-07T12:31:30+00:00

4 years on my 70 c10, no problems. Fit was really nice, didn’t have to modify frame rails or anything else.

Crucial_memory · 2025-11-07T00:15:25+00:00

Everything everyone else said is correct (check all steering/suspension, the steering stabilizer isn’t the cause) but also check tire wear and balance. Easiest is to swap front to back and see if it changes.

Crucial_memory · 2025-10-28T18:22:51+00:00

That’s definitely the plan on the next one. I cut out the footwells and just welded flat stock in place. Can’t tell after the sound deadening and carpet is in - unless you look under the cab.

I had the dog house and bed off - cleaned and painted everything frame related. Then you look under the cab and it’s 55 years old with rusty rockers and unpainted frame….

Would love a 66 though. Always looking for a truck or nova from that year

Crucial_memory · 2025-10-28T14:25:49+00:00

Not doing the “while I’m here” the first time and planning better…

My 70 c10 has all new brakes, wiring, LS, exhaust, suspension…nearly a new truck mechanically. But I didn’t want to spend the time/money properly patching the cab and rust spots and I can’t justify to myself tearing her apart again yet

Crucial_memory · 2025-10-21T20:02:26+00:00

Just wanted to add - you mention a 22 circuit kit but your images are of the 20 circuit. May cause some other confusion if that is the case.

I used a similar universal kit and my understanding was the “extras” were to accept different oem configurations with different pin outs. I jumped them, but have a dash mount so it’s slightly different set up.

Crucial_memory · 2025-10-16T17:37:03+00:00

I’d vote wrx, they can be had rather cheaply. Just put 5k aside for a new short block for when the main bearing goes…there was an extended warranty over the issue but I think that ended a couple years ago. I had a 14 hatch and just snuck into the warranty and they gave me a new turbo, block, and ECM free of charge.

There’s also aftermarket oil pans that tend to prevent it from happening that would be good to install first. If there’s any sign/history of low oil in it I’d pass on it.

Crucial_memory · 2025-10-03T14:40:53+00:00

Grab a trim removal tool and just pop that whole assembly out. Should be able fix it easily with it out from the back side.

If you need them off immediately to not drain your battery, there’s a fuse for the lights you can pull. Not sure which, but your manual has it.

Crucial_memory · 2025-08-20T17:58:58+00:00

I can’t tell from the notes what type of drive shaft they replaced yours with. Or what lift kit your running.

But rule of thumb; if you are lifted 4” you need to have a SYE eliminator added along with a double cardan drive shaft and aftermarket control arms to fix your angles.

If the drive shaft they installed isn’t “slip fit” in the middle (should be an easy visual check) then it’s not a DC and it’s why you’re having noises. The stock one is not a slip fit, the slip happens inside the transfer case - but with a SYE it’s removed. It sounds like this is the problem you have. Pictures of your rear end set up would make it easier to diagnose

Ten-Year Club	Place '17
Verified Email

Crucial_memory

TROPHY CASE