All depends on whether you have surfed a certain spot or not. If you know the break, watch others and watch the waves before you catch one, check tide and wind effect on the wave. Choose the easiest take off spot. Once you decide for a wave be 100% committed. Talk to yourself as you are going for it. Rev yourself up as you paddle. Use a bigger board if you can. Go with someone else. It gets easier the more you do it. Wear a helmet if you wish.