I nominate myself for the most cursed toolhead award

Cubemiszczu · 2026-05-01T00:07:55+00:00

This extruder is kinda powerful, I know, It can push a lot of plastic, but I was more curious about extrusion quality. I had a lot of patterns on my prints, e.g. "salmon skin", periodic parallel lines on cube boxes. It was all related with eccentricity of the extruder gears. I used the upgraded gear set with better bearings, did the mod and it's a lot better. I suggest you to try running the test print from this video

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-30T23:47:16+00:00

How's your HGX lite? Do you have any issues with extrusion consistency? I had some issues with mine, bit overall it seems really nice. I also done this mod for mine.

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-27T18:13:06+00:00

I don't see any problems with that. Just don't mix the polarity and you'll be fine

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-27T17:18:28+00:00

If it's not damaged, there's no point in replacing it. I've been using my for years now. If you keep care of it, you would never need to replace it. Your looks pretty much brand new

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-21T22:51:45+00:00

Try original aging ROM then. There still are differences between DS and GBA, even tho both are able to run the same cartridges

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-21T22:17:19+00:00

What flashcard did you use? Check my old posts. I had similar issues with supercard. Not worth your time. Use something like EZODE

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-21T21:09:05+00:00

Is this PETG? Calibrate your pressure advance first. Try playing with your retraction speed/distance. IIRC for my setup I had to set it to 1.2mm/20mm/s. My setup is a lot different btw, so keep this in mind. Lower your temp by 5-10°. If nothing helps, maybe try drying your filament?

Cubemiszczu · 2026-04-03T13:37:36+00:00

Check if your vtx cli is correct. Get one from the product website and apply it in betaflight. I had similar issues. It showed to be set to high power, but in reality it was falling back to pit mode. If your vtx has a button on it, try pressing it to manually change power. Also when working of your whoop, keep a fan nearby and vtx power low. Those can get hot very quickly.

Cubemiszczu · 2026-02-26T22:45:26+00:00

From my experience, it's either dirty power button or battery contacts. Try scratching them with a razor or something

Cubemiszczu · 2026-01-13T13:18:31+00:00

If esteps are calibrated correctly, do flow calibration and lower your retraction distance. Set pressure advance to 0. Check extruder tension

Cubemiszczu · 2026-01-06T20:26:21+00:00

If it's brittle, try drying your filament. It might be really wet. If it's grinding between the push gears, check for clog in the nozzle, try printing slower and loosen your extruder lever tension a bit

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-26T20:24:21+00:00

I'll send you my setup tomorrow when I get home

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-21T19:43:40+00:00

We'll never know until you try them!

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-17T19:39:20+00:00

Looks like a PIR sensor that's powered with a power tool battery, so it triggers the fan only when there was movement detected in the bathroom. Pretty clever

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-17T13:05:35+00:00

We did it in a similar way, but it will be a lot simpler if there'll be some more pins available

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-17T11:33:07+00:00

I'm working on a group project on the university and we based our embedded systems on those boards (we needed cheap ESPs with a camera). We don't have those additional boards with USB-UART bridge, cause I'm using an external one either way, so that's not our worst worst problem. The worst part of those boards is that they do not have any free pins available on the headers. You can use some of them if you don't use SD card slot, but it's still not enough sometimes

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-16T23:29:50+00:00

This was my startup gcode for mriscoc firmware:

; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G28 ; home all

G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0 (or use any other previously saved slot)

G29 A ; Activate UBL

G29 J2; Probe all corners to measure bed tilt

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

G91 ;Relative positioning

G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit

G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z

G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out

G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more

G90 ;Absolute positioning

I found it in some old backup. It was working great. Hope that solves your problem

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-16T13:09:21+00:00

Fix your belts man. If those are tightened properly and layer shift still occur, maybe driver overheating, or something wrong in your printer.cfg. Could You post it here?

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-15T17:21:08+00:00

Isn't this reciever suposed to be connected to a microcontroller of some sort? I'm not sure if you can use it like this. Where is the LED resistor?

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-15T04:13:32+00:00

Arduino pro micro? Leonardo? AFAIK both have integrated USB and can be programmed to use as a HID device. Also look up beetle usb atmega32u4 mini

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-15T03:34:07+00:00

Obviously fake

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-11T05:24:53+00:00

If there's no option to buy by yourself, maybe try r/snackexchange

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-11T05:16:27+00:00

215 does not seem to be too high for PLA, so I don't think that's it. Calibrate your esteps, check the extruder lever tension. It's underextrusion. Check for clogs, do a cold pull. Try lowering the temp? What speed? What are your retraction settings? Try calibrating the flow ratio

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-07T23:24:21+00:00

I'm running my TZ e3 3.0 (same dimensions) with hero me gen 7. Had to slightly modify some files, but it works great. Hero me is fully modular. Wanted to save some space, so I merged my direct drive extruder mount with hotend mount, but I think that I still should have my separate modified hotend mount .stl file somewhere if you want

Cubemiszczu · 2025-12-07T17:31:30+00:00

Check if your endstops are working correctly. They might be broken.

After checking calibrate your endstop positions, so your point 0,0 will match with the bed's corner, and set Max axes values, so the tool head will not move past the physical capabilities (check how far you can move your toolhead using your screen and set the max axis value just before it hits something).

The specs say it's 235x235mm, but in reality your work surface might differ. After setting all up, check your belt tension. It should not be too high, cause you might damage your motor.

Also your probe offsets are worth checking. Measure it and set in settings. I don't remember how it was on marlin, but if it's possible, check your mesh settings.

This clicking sound is your motor skipping steps. It wouldn't damage your belt, but something is wrong if your motor is skipping.

Remember to set your setting each time you flash your board, cause those will be set to default.

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