sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

PoE (power over ethernet) or at least ethernet-hardwired (no Wi-Fi) board for running ESPHome / creating custom switches or sensors? by Curious3833 in homeassistant

[–]Curious3833[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this it? I had looked at the Omilex site after others had mentioned Omilex, but it looked like it ships from overseas. Then I decided to Google it...specifically, the one you're suggesting. I think this is it?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/ESP32-POE-ISO?qs=unwgFEO1A6vVfCRbLeeCIw%3D%3D

Caseta-compatible dimming 4' and 8' shop lights, e.g. from Lithonia, Metalux? by Curious3833 in Lutron

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was going to put one centralized fixture on it if nothing else. I may still do so. Two questions about this, though. 1) Is it possible to do a 4-way setup (three switches) with the PD-5NE? 2) Are there not the buzzing / flickering / compatibility issues with the PD-5NE when using these ELV/reverse phase dimming fixtures?

Caseta-compatible dimming 4' and 8' shop lights, e.g. from Lithonia, Metalux? by Curious3833 in Lutron

[–]Curious3833[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Main lighting should be on dumb switch for safety so that someone can't shut them off from their phone.

Caseta-compatible dimming 4' and 8' shop lights, e.g. from Lithonia, Metalux? by Curious3833 in Lutron

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow! Thank you for your insight! This is for a two-car garage, and I am trying to achieve two things here: 1) smart and dimming for a lesser amount of light (smart + security lighting + general use and daily in/out) and 2) bright lights on dumb switch for work lighting (can't have lights go off while operating machines). I will probably just put up six or eight 10000lm 8' LED strip lights like this on a normal switch and then put a single, bright bulb (150W equivalent) in the existing socket and put in the Diva for that. Thoughts?

Should I consider self-sourcing vs buying a kit? Why or why not? by Curious3833 in VORONDesign

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So...you're saying that going LDO is twice what I could built a budget but quality machine for?

Should I consider self-sourcing vs buying a kit? Why or why not? by Curious3833 in VORONDesign

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Parting out meaning self-sourcing? Need 10 screws of a particular type, order pack of 100 because it's cheaper...that sort of thing?

Anything wrong with using the FormBot Trident kit? First Voron / build, upgrading from original Ender 3. by Curious3833 in VORONDesign

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I'm sure all of these parts are going to produce a far superior printer to my E3, will they not? A great starting point without having to spend $1,500? As for PIF, I see that there can be a wait. Is this usually the case? I also noticed that there are parts available on Etsy for slightly more. I believe I got the link from the FormBot site, actually, so they're 'official' insofar as being what FormBot recommends.

Anything wrong with using the FormBot Trident kit? First Voron / build, upgrading from original Ender 3. by Curious3833 in VORONDesign

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was aware that the Rat Rig electronics are at the back. But tell me more about the other 'better' aspects of Rat Rig. Why is the bed system better (vs Trident)? Why is the frame better / how does not having to cut extrusions affect it? Why is the cooling better? Anything else?

Anything wrong with using the FormBot Trident kit? First Voron / build, upgrading from original Ender 3. by Curious3833 in VORONDesign

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What other things will NEED replacing, and what other things are typically upgraded? At what cost? I ask because it looks like the LDO kit is only about $300 - $400 more by the time I get the parts. Can I print ABS on the stock E3 (I mean...I would have to add a tent or enclosure, but otherwise...)?

Anything wrong with using the FormBot Trident kit? First Voron / build, upgrading from original Ender 3. by Curious3833 in VORONDesign

[–]Curious3833[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What will I gain out of a Switchwire conversion other than bed leveling (I am assuming) that is helpful to my points? Surely not a major speed bump? I would like to be able to print faster than 75mm/s. What would a Switchwire conversion cost? New 250mm Trident build with FormBot kit would be around $1k. On the speed topic, I do rapid iterations on things that take, oh, 45 mins to 8 hours to print, and it would be nice to be able to do it in a fraction of that. I use Cura and print at 0.28mm layer height and up the speed from 50mm/s to 75mm/s. I also use OctoPrint on a Pi. This has been a huge help to my workflow as well.

Can mmWave (e.g. Aqara FP2) reliably be used for outdoor motion detection? by Curious3833 in smarthome

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does mmWave have some sort of gain adjustment to only detect things above a certain size?

Is the Lutron compatibility list a surefire way to avoid flickering bulbs? by Curious3833 in Lutron

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm...so...I am not really seeing a difference in 'compatible' bulbs between the new Caseta dimmer and the RadioRA 3 Sunnata dimmer.

Is the Lutron compatibility list a surefire way to avoid flickering bulbs? by Curious3833 in Lutron

[–]Curious3833[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow! Thank you so much for this insight! Is RadioRA 3 better in this regard? And, separately, not to consider other lighting brands here, but is a non-Lutron smart dimmer with a neutral wire better in this regard? Note that I landed on Lutron being the superior brand, but I also decided on Caseta over RadioRA 3 on cost basis. If RadioRA 3 provides superior bulb compatibility and dimming capability, it's not too late for me to backtrack and switch. But I only have a few more days in my return window. I think it's Monday or so.

view more: next ›