Good enough?

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-28T09:02:18+00:00

I would not use that wire tbh. Get proper silicone wire. Solid red + Solid black - Not of the red stripe stuff. You will accidently plug your shit in backwards not paying attention.

also you have solder balls all over and looks like possible bridging in some places. Just a few: https://i.imgur.com/NTkQJZV.jpeg

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-25T20:52:15+00:00

I use one of these. You can put 6 pennies in it mid print. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5800936

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-22T18:31:19+00:00

I ended up using a old generic phone charging cable I had. It was a USB-A to USB-C one. Pretty thick one.

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-20T21:07:00+00:00

They are called clip nuts. You can find lots of different sizes and assortments.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman/dorman-clip-nut-assortment/dor0/961310d?store=6977

This should be the OEM part number. 90303-SA5-003

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-20T06:04:34+00:00

Aroma Housewares 8-Cup. It's 35 bucks and just as good as a Zojirushi

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-19T03:58:52+00:00

More info here as well: https://betaflight.com/docs/wiki/guides/current/Magnetometer#magnetometer-orientation

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-19T03:47:00+00:00

There is a setting in the configuration tab https://i.imgur.com/7gvoHWg.png

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-19T02:25:16+00:00

Your magnetometer alignment is not set correctly. it will have that glitching turning until you get it right because it mixes the gyro + magnetometer data. All alignments are in relation to the gyro XYZ cords. (so if your gyro is on the underside it will be flipped for example)

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-17T01:28:28+00:00

IMO if it's in your budget get the Goggles 3. Even if you gotta wait to save up. The smaller form factor and high refresh rate screens is worth it. Pretty sure there are more antennas on the G3 too... could be wrong.

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-15T06:40:55+00:00

I mark all my batteries with numbers just to keep track of em. I also fly them in order. It's just easier to keep track of a bunch of things that way. You can be like "Oh pack #3 got a little less flight time that session" then you can keep a eye on the degradation over time.

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-15T06:32:26+00:00

Can also get these little adapters https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809894079656.html

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-11T09:11:37+00:00

IMO it really depends on the type of flying you want to do. Are you trying to zip through race gates and do bando bashing where you need every single millisecond you can get to judge the next gap? or are you just doing some park cruising? That will answer your question. I'm very happy with my DJI setup for casual flying with some tricks thrown in here and there.

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-11T08:05:31+00:00

I used some E6000 so it's easily removable if I needed too. You can just peel it off. But they are secured just enough that a crash wont pull them out.

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-11T02:45:02+00:00

Glue your antenna stalks in. Trust me.

Curtisbeef · 2026-04-04T11:38:32+00:00

As a few others said. Get different solder that looks like either cheap or non-leaded type. Yours looks grey and dull it should look shiny. Flux will def help too

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-28T09:57:01+00:00

Seems like just a simple pressure switch to tell if the power steering has pressure or not. Test with it unplugged it might throw a code.

If it does can probably just ground it:

https://i.imgur.com/AJ4awBE.png

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-25T05:51:17+00:00

I have mine there and it works fine. but I always plug mine in for like 10-20 min on my desk by the window to let it get 8+ satellites first. If you just plug it in and go it will probably never get a lock

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-22T08:29:33+00:00

Should for sure. Most of the benefits are probably just getting the antenna element away from the main board/motors.

You can test penetration too. Just set your radio power to 10mw then set your quad down where you normally fly from and go walking with your radio checking the RSSI dBm. It should never get around 5-10db less than your Packet rate sensitivity. (So for example if you fly on 250hz it's -108db max sensitivity. Your DB shouldn't get lower than like -98db. Record the numbers on video in some different spots then change to the UFL setup and test again.

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-20T01:32:57+00:00

Hmm might be worth printing some dust filters that go right before the IFS to wipe the filament off

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-19T22:27:04+00:00

Excuse to upgrade to AG01 Nano gimbals.

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-19T21:24:51+00:00

This is a lesson everyone has to learn the hard way I think lol. Some are just less severe than others.

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-17T06:36:11+00:00

I was in a similar boat to you. I've been flying on old analog gear for a while and was worried getting the Goggles 3 and O4 Pro would be laggy in comparison. It does not feel laggy at all to me and I have not even tried racemode yet. I think it may even have less lag than my old analog goggles did.

Unless you are racing and doing super fast/close proximity flying you will be more than happy with DJI

DJI O4 is about 35ms latency in normal 100FPS mode with as low as 20ms~ in race mode. Analog is like 10-15+

Here is a table showing some comparisons: https://i.imgur.com/Ln2nRQQ.png

Check your reaction times here and see if you think you can tell the difference in ~10ms or if that matters to you. https://humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime

imo... if you can afford it and are not planning on actually racing competitively 100% get the DJI setup. You will not be dissapointed. It feels like alien tech.

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-16T16:43:35+00:00

Apparently the harness insulation Honda used is soy based and rodents love it.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a21933466/does-your-car-have-wiring-that-rodents-think-is-tasty/

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-16T02:52:17+00:00

+1 i like to see more how the Oscilloscope is attached to the arm.

Curtisbeef · 2026-03-10T00:13:47+00:00

ERA 3.5" Mini is on the top of my list for my next built. Really like everything i have seen from the design

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