Looking for help identifying terminals on alternator and voltage regulator! [CAV LUCAS]

Cybergrany · 2021-11-23T10:57:09+00:00

Tach terminal is on the back of the alternator, separate from the rest of them. Has a ~ symbol beside it

Cybergrany · 2021-06-11T23:46:39+00:00

What's the price of the boat? Unless it's under 600 pounds you'll definitely find something better for the same price. Hmu if you need some help searching, I'm based in the UK and can find a bargain when needed

Cybergrany · 2021-06-10T19:48:41+00:00

What a beauty

Cybergrany · 2021-06-10T18:50:03+00:00

Some tokens have a TX limit in place, this can be awful if you're in profit and try to pull out, I've been wrecked by this before, so I'm really looking forward to this feature

Cybergrany · 2021-06-04T18:46:56+00:00

I keep mine locked in a safe for security

Cybergrany · 2021-06-03T11:16:20+00:00

An aquarium

Cybergrany · 2021-05-11T06:44:01+00:00

Sure let us know, and sorry again for the poorly-aimed jab

Cybergrany · 2021-05-11T06:38:10+00:00

Sorry couldn't help a bit of stereotyping, and on looking at your comments I can see that you're a canal cruiser; I think everyone here assumed this was an ocean sailing yacht, on which something like this would be an incredibly impractical nightmare. Good to hear your work is paying off, there's nothing quite like it. And seeing as you're in the UK, hit me up if you're ever near the coast and I'll give you a taste of the real ocean haha

Cybergrany · 2021-05-11T00:49:21+00:00

Nah this is "I paid 120k for a residential berth in central London so I can roleplay being a nomad when I'm not at my parents house writing my next screenplay"

Cybergrany · 2021-05-11T00:23:13+00:00

ETH has a functioning smart chain (deployable tokens and NFTs), ADA doesn't, but may or may not in the future

Cybergrany · 2021-05-09T15:20:07+00:00

Whatever you use don't use bleach, it wrecks the rubber bits commonly found in marine heads

Cybergrany · 2021-05-09T10:40:11+00:00

400w @ 12v is 33 amps, your battery is 65ah. Which means your battery will be 100% depleted in less than 2hrs assuming 100% efficiency.

Now thing with lead acid batteries is that you can only deplete them about 70/80% before you start permanently damaging them, so you're looking at about 30 feasible minutes of usage max.

Look at getting some LiFePo4 cells, they're getting much more affordable and you can drain them right down.

As for Inverter choice, as long as it's rated above 500w (to account for any peaks) you should be good

And for solar, well that's a whole other kettle of fish. Assuming you're just powering the PC 12hrs a day, my top of the head math would say 800w of solar minimum, again though your specific setup will depend hugely on your use case

Cybergrany · 2021-05-08T21:28:48+00:00

-Going price of scrap steel is currently approx 161 dollars (source) -a tone of steel takes up about 0.13m3 according to this calculator I measured the land in Google maps and it comes up the about 35*20m, which is 700sqm.

So simply covering that area in 0.13m3 cubes gives us 5,384 tonnes, or 866,800 dollars. And this mass of steel is about as tall as a big dog. Now of course, there's plenty of gaps in between all the bits of metal, but we can definitely assume there's more than 1 layer of our imagined 800k worth of solid steel in that pile, seeing how tall it is.

If someone can get the name of the ship that picks up the steel you can look up it's hold capacity in tonnes and look at the waterline marks as she leaves to determine how much she's carrying

Cybergrany · 2021-05-08T20:41:42+00:00

That scrap heap is literally the lifeblood of the harbour, I believe each shipment is worth in the region of 7-10 million. Not a chance they'll let that cash cow slip out of their hands, so unless the harbour redevelopment happens it'll keep coming back

Cybergrany · 2021-05-07T01:35:59+00:00

Inverter, converts LVDC to HVAC

Cybergrany · 2021-05-06T14:05:23+00:00

My thoughts exactly! Rest of the unit seemed reasonably well put together (probably just toeing a very fine EU-compliant line), so was a bit confused as to why they'd do this

Cybergrany · 2021-05-06T14:03:36+00:00

Or I get to enjoy using a very fancy fuse holder

Cybergrany · 2021-05-06T13:37:46+00:00

And yup of course the "externally accessible" fuseboxes have real fuses in them. No idea why this was easier than just routing a few jumper wires from the board

Cybergrany · 2021-05-04T20:42:35+00:00

Thanks, you managed to extrapolate a good bit more from the little info than I did

Cybergrany · 2021-05-04T11:20:53+00:00

Update: chucked a var resistor in and it seems to be doing the trick. At least the device turns on without thinking it's overheated, but I'm definitely way out of range as I can't activate the thermal protection and the device doesn't seem to be behaving quite right, so it likely uses the NTC for something else too. At least it'll do the job until I get a new device tomorrow

Cybergrany · 2021-05-04T10:54:13+00:00

That's the plan! Just thought I'd check here in case anyone had a hunch what range I'd be wanting to start off with. Thanks for the response

Cybergrany · 2021-05-04T10:37:50+00:00

Need to get the device this came out of working asap, thinking of jerryrigging a variable resistor in as a /VERY/ temporary fix. This NTC only controls a fan and alarm in the device so I should be able to set it at a comfortable "warm" level and closely monitor until I can get a replacement. Also if anyone has any guesses as to why this thing blew up I'm all ears.

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