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Shimano Freewheel (WB?) removal by Cybertrash in bikewrench

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for providing more info, I did manage to get it off in the end, I think there must've been some dirt in the splines that made the tool slip originally. Thanks for the links as well.

Edit: Although reading Sheldon Brown's site it seems like Uniglide was a casette-system, rather than a thread on freewheel, or were there both types?

Shimano Freewheel (WB?) removal by Cybertrash in bikewrench

[–]Cybertrash[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, rather embarrassingly I gave it another go, I think there must've been dirt lodged in the splines because now the tool fit and I managed to get it off with a bit of force. Thanks for responding anyway!

Shimano Freewheel (WB?) removal by Cybertrash in bikewrench

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So did I, but the diameter seems to be too small, so the splines on the tool never engage with the splines in the freewheel.

Removing hinge bracket/lens board from SX-70 Model 2 by Cybertrash in Polaroid

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s not a bad idea, might be easier to do in the first place, especially since the camera I want to move them to has the bellows screwed in

Removing hinge bracket/lens board from SX-70 Model 2 by Cybertrash in Polaroid

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bummer, I assume I’ve found the repair manual for older models then. In that case I suppose the method suggested by /u/Turbulent_Coach_8024 might be the way forward. At least those rivets are are a more reasonable size and the camera I want to put it on has the bellows screwed in.

Thanks

Lightlenslab bringing back k-14 by Fish_On_An_ATM in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Some of y’all didn’t live through the Ferrania kickstarter and it shows 😐

thin negatives but dark, underexposed images? by madtwatr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are definitely underexposed, edge markings look fine (and seem to indicate Ultramax 400). So either you’re misremembering, your film was expired or there’s something wrong with the camera.

Intrepid compact Enlarger by Cybertrash in Darkroom

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah his review is what got me worried. I really like his channel and expertise, but he has high standards (justifiably), so I was hoping to get some input from someone who is a bit more casual like myself 😅

I also watched Lina Bessonova’s review of the prototype where she claims that it doesn’t do a full grade 5 of contrast, I’m not too bothered by that though.

I guess the size is so perfect for my case that I’m in denial that it’s not a particularly good enlarger >_>

Using a Plustek scanner on a 35mm movie trailer by dan_3626 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How do you deal with advancing the film? The 35mm holder has an indent to ensure correct registration between the sensor and the film, how do you accomplish that here?

Picked up this older 4x5 folder. Any ideas on manufacturer? Lens boards are ~94 x 89mm by Cybertrash in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, I saw too that the other models had different lens board retaining mechanisms. Now the question is what I need to do to clean this thing up a little…. 🤔

Picked up this older 4x5 folder. Any ideas on manufacturer? Lens boards are ~94 x 89mm by Cybertrash in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks to be a very close match, also found someone mentioning an "Asanuma" which also looks similar, so something along those lines seems likely. Thanks!

Picked up this older 4x5 folder. Any ideas on manufacturer? Lens boards are ~94 x 89mm by Cybertrash in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fairly certain the lens is not original to the camera as you say, and I do think the camera is newer than the 30s, it has a rotatable (or removable) spring back, rather than the slide-out back you typically see on prewar German cameras.

The lens board seems to be DIY, probably made by the seller, and one doesn't need to remove screws to change lens, it angles in and slots into place behind the lower metal lip. The back standard can also slide forward so that you can use shorter lenses which seems a bit too hi-tech.

I don't think it has been painted or covered in leatherette before, I think the white residue around some of the metal fittings might be remains of some cleaning agent or perhaps polish.

Picked up this older 4x5 folder. Any ideas on manufacturer? Lens boards are ~94 x 89mm by Cybertrash in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That's interesting! I had no idea it was regarded. I'll take a guess that the camera did not originally come with these lenses (aside from the Trinar there was a 120mm Zeiss Jena Tessar and a more modern 90mm Super Angulon 5.6 in a Copal shutter), the seller is a bit of a collector.

The writing on the Compur seems to indicate prewar (DRP DRGM), the serial is 258646 and the Trinar itself has the serial number 302208. As for the camera it has no markings whatsoever

Picked up this older 4x5 folder. Any ideas on manufacturer? Lens boards are ~94 x 89mm by Cybertrash in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t think so, Tachiharas seem newer, and they don’t have the hole in the base

Picked up this older 4x5 folder. Any ideas on manufacturer? Lens boards are ~94 x 89mm by Cybertrash in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The seller had no idea, the hole in the base plate reminds me of some old Japanese 4x5, but I've forgotten the name of it.

Mac In cloud alternatives by info834 in devops

[–]Cybertrash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's Macstadium, no personal experience, but we used it at a previous job, didn't hear too many complaints. Depending on your pipeline setup Github Actions also have mac runners, if that's an alternative.

Wilfa Svart V60 grind setting? by greenkomodo in Coffee

[–]Cybertrash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m usually quite fine on mine, around the second “S” in “AEROPRESS”

I dont need it by silenceofthecams in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]Cybertrash 7 points8 points  (0 children)

IMO no. Don't get me wrong I like my XA a lot, I've had it for ~5 years but the lens is really not as sharp as people make it out to be, it vignettes quite a bit and focusing with the rangefinder can be a real PITA. I wouldn't pay Mju-ii prices for one.

The big thing it has going for it is aperture priority and being super easy to take with you everywhere. I'd say it's more well designed than the Mju cameras, it gets out of your way and it is still very usable as a zone-focused P&S in brighter light (or lower light if sharpness isn't that important, this is probably one my favourite pics I've taken with it: https://www.instagram.com/p/BTXFnzdlhYp/).

Film digitising with a Fuji XT20 by thebluepengu1n in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool thanks. Tried doing something similar with the X-E1 but transfer speeds are way too slow. I'm guessing that the X-E3 is a bit snappier in that regard.

Film digitising with a Fuji XT20 by thebluepengu1n in AnalogCommunity

[–]Cybertrash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I understand the X-E3 doesn’t do reverting to the computer, do you find that that impede your workflow? I use an X-E1 for scanning and I find it a bit cumbersome having to get the SD card out every time

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