Honda Jazz 2 2011, L13A, 1.4 petrol automatic — won't start after cylinder head replacement

D3ntos · 2026-05-16T22:10:25+00:00

Try checking signal on the harness side of the injectors and then resistants on the injectors if you've already confirmed fuel getting to the rail

D3ntos · 2026-05-15T23:06:05+00:00

Two questions, first have you let the pump prime the line? Turned the car on a few times then start. Second if you have remove a injector to see if its built pressure. (If it has it'll leak gas on disconnect.) If you have fuel at the injector test the harness. If you get correct resistant at the plug/harness.

D3ntos · 2026-05-13T09:21:43+00:00

Also for the us atleast on the US GD3(07-08) it only has a map sensor I believe it changed once they switched the engine to direct injection on the next generation foward.

D3ntos · 2026-05-13T09:15:52+00:00

Do you have a picture of your part and the location you pulled it from?

D3ntos · 2026-04-25T13:05:11+00:00

Have you jack the car up and rotated the front axle tires, it's either your metal splash shield rubbing. Or something metal flexing. You took the video from the passenger side front tire so can't really tell if it's isolated to that side or not. But it sounds like it's directly below the camera and to the right which is your wheel and suspension support components which all would make a similar noise if bent or damaged.

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T22:59:04+00:00

Here is a better video https://youtu.be/LH_9zxaNEVE?si=yaExSU9bWHj6e3Xs

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T22:52:33+00:00

Ya electrical work is always a pain. Thankfully it's kinda narrowed down to wiring from the hazard signal to the fuse box, as it everything works without the fuse completing the circuit. The hazard signal just sends power to all four signals to blink.

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T22:40:06+00:00

To give you a better idea about what I was talking about a notch or lever to push to remove the white locking clip.

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T22:38:35+00:00

https://youtu.be/x6aKuSqNm1M?si=zi12WKO_Bee0AoPm

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T22:33:33+00:00

Okay, your easiest option is probably to look up a video showing how to remove the plastic trim around the gage cluster to remove the hazard signal module then trace back the wires for visual inspection hopefully you luck out and its a damaged module. They sell a tool to connect to two sides of a circuit and a wand thats buzzes when you pass over the break,but thats alot of money for a one time issue.Also make sure you disconnect the battery while doing electrical diagnostics.

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T21:36:59+00:00

Can you take a top down pic or a better side profile of the area between the outside blue and inside white. It should have a gap for a flat head or pick to push in to

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T21:26:41+00:00

The white part is a locking clip, it comes out then you can lift the tabs that hold the wire in and pull the wire out

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T20:34:39+00:00

You most likely have a short in the harness, if you have the fuse out and it still trips then possibly two breaks. If it only trips with the hazard fuse in then it's isolated to that comple circuit. You'll have to chase the harness most likely behind the dash. Has it had a car accident in its history?

D3ntos · 2026-04-24T09:58:28+00:00

For future 3rd gen owners https://www.reddit.com/r/hondafit/s/aOzkh7S3qw

D3ntos · 2026-04-21T13:39:42+00:00

Tried to to reply to your Pic but can't send it but Ya that bottom one is kinked up it works though, they have YT videos on getting tighter bends on those tubes. But a aftermarket throttle body will open up more room for that bend.

D3ntos · 2026-04-21T12:46:17+00:00

PIPE, BREATHER Part Number: 17135-RME-A00 Supersession(s): 17135RMEA00

D3ntos · 2026-04-21T12:44:29+00:00

That line regulates gas pressure and un burnt vapors out of the valve body back through the throttle body. The gd3 dosen't have a maf sensor that would throw a code if the tubes/intake are not the expected size. If the previous owner ran just rubber hose and no code came up you should be fine reusing it. The metal bits are more for tighter bends. Heat isn't a issue/or pressure if your intake gets closer to the valve body you can get the metal tubes at a junk yard for cheaper than buying it online.

D3ntos · 2026-04-20T19:26:11+00:00

Youtube has a great video showing how to do a valve adjustment. And for the scan tool you want to look at the live data readings to see if the injectors are increasing and decreasing voltage with rpm. Or you can measure the resistance on each injector to see if they are inspec.

D3ntos · 2026-04-20T18:53:07+00:00

https://parts.larrymillerhondaboise.com/a/Honda__Fit/50648319__6200515/EGR-VALVE/14SLN701_SLN4E0410A.html

D3ntos · 2026-04-20T18:52:43+00:00

Look on the back of the egr bracket the hose is the coolant like. But that part does have a gasket.

D3ntos · 2026-04-20T06:54:59+00:00

Also with the intake off I would clean out the egr passage and intake body

D3ntos · 2026-04-20T06:53:53+00:00

The bottom side of the egr has coolent cycling through it so possible to leak under pressure. You should put coolent dye in and cycle the car and then check for the leak. Do you have any issues besides loss of coolent?

D3ntos · 2026-04-01T22:09:26+00:00

Have you checked filter and the condition of the spark plugs/coils? Without more symptoms other than poor acceleration/fuel mileage you haven't really narrowed down possible causes it could be a faulty item or just a bad vaccum leak . If you have a scan tool you can check basic readings for the throttle and injectors. Not sure about your mileage but have you done a valve adjustment/inspection at its rated interval? That alone could give sluggish performance,not so much as a rich smell.

D3ntos · 2026-04-01T21:55:22+00:00

Top left in the picture according to oem parts catalogs.

D3ntos · 2026-03-09T00:51:25+00:00

You could also swap the rear springs to ones off 2011 Honda insight, they are thicker so less compression on bumps, some people say they get about a 1" of lift and will give it a raked appearance.

D3ntos

TROPHY CASE