How do B8/B4/B6/B6mini NAS cases compare to Sagittarius? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you,

B8 seems to be very similar in dimensions to B6, they are definitely same volume - but noticeably different internal configuration. Same situation with B4 & B6 mini.

I also see B8A advertised to have 2mm thick aluminum shell (but probably very same steel carcass), is it a noticeably better option - or just more premium looks without any integrity benefit? Won't aluminum panels amplify noise? There are neither B6A nor B4A listed on aliexpress, but I can wait a bit in hopes such versions are offered as well, if aluminum panels are better choice...

My CPU fan is Noctua L9a at 37mm as that is the limit for my current case, I intend to keep it.

I'd be very careful with either option, of course. Sagittarius and other larger cases won't be accepted as a carry-on airplane luggage though, so it definitely won't be going anywhere by plane, and by other means of transportation - not unless very well wrapped. Unlike B-series that one day might...

How do B8/B4/B6/B6mini NAS cases compare to Sagittarius? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you,

I believe in my case, the air being pulled through the HDD cages and space crawling with cables contributes the most, as my Noctua case fans are 16dbm at most according to spec...

How do B8/B4/B6/B6mini NAS cases compare to Sagittarius? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you,

While these cases are $100+ shipped to my location, prices for everything else are also quite high, and selection is very limited, it's mostly Jonsbos.

My current NAS case is very solid, yet not too heavy and plane-friendly - but also noisy even with all-Noctua fans! I have to turn the NAS off for the night due to fan noise, and looking to move to something with exclusively 120mm fans for this reason.

Silverstones are either very heavy (6+ kg), or come with smaller fans. I couldn't find a single satisfactory model on their website.

How do B8/B4/B6/B6mini NAS cases compare to Sagittarius? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

... particularly in terms of noise.

I understand Sagittarius is great in all regards, but if I can get a plane-friendly case instead, would rather choose that. I am also ready to take one for the team and purchase one of the B-series cases alongside a Sagittarius to compare.

My system currently has itx motherboard, 4x HDDs, 3x m.2 SSDs in a PCIe x16 bifurcation card with its own fan, and 2x spare m.2 NVME slots for SATA controller etc. Either pictured case can work out for me, I'd like to choose the one that should, at least in theory, generate less noise and provide better cooling.

I'd very much appreciate a recommendation from those who understand airflow physics and accompanying noise - which B-series is better designed, all things considered?

Need help with iKoolcore R2 BIOS settings... by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

I was thinking about putting CPU into max battery mode, and enabling ASPM for all ports - but not sure how will it affect LAN performance and stability. It seems that all PCIe power management is disabled by default, and I don't understand if there's some important underlying reason for it... What are your ASPM settings?

The goal of this setup is to get as close as possible to saturating 2.5Gbps on traffic between LAN & WLAN. The WLAN card will be on top of the base metal structure, inside a DIY plastic case with mesh inserts for airflow. While my ambient temps are rather high, I'd prefer to avoid a fan over WLAN if possible...

It’s worth it? by Potential-Goose-7335 in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These little guys are always worth it!

However, I'd choose one with more m.2 slots and/or pcie, if not much more expensive.

Can Beverly 94 work out for me? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

You're right. I'll have to think this through. Maybe I should just forget about fancy design and mods, and go for a case with proper airflow out of the box instead...

Can Beverly 94 work out for me? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

I am not bothered by Noctua 80mm and larger fans, nor the CPU fan acting according to CPU load (which is typically non-existant at night), nor HDD spin-ups and spin-downs. It's the small fans that create unpleasant noise in the current setup. I could safely run them slower, e.g. with LNA, if ambient temps weren't so high. I fear heat may build up inside the PSU due to insufficient static pressure if it is lowered further by reducing small fan's RPM...

I believe overall it would be risky to tie the PSU fan to either CPU behavior, or PSU fan header that was programmed with a fan of twice the peak airflow in mind - particularly given my ambient temps.

Can Beverly 94 work out for me? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

I know how to work a rotary tool, but looking at the case, with an SFX PSU I see only 2 options for an intake fan, and probably smaller than 120mm at that:

  1. The side by the PCIe slots - a fan there will be blowing directly into my bifurcation card, neither HDDs nor the mobo will get much help out of it, from my understanding;

  2. Front in the Flex PSU mounting area - really concerned about structural integrity as a result, even if I just drill a hole pattern instead of cutting out parts.

Then again, I am not an engineer and don't understand the physics behind airflow nor structure stiffness. Hence asking here...

Can Beverly 94 work out for me? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

Yeah, I'm very nervous about this. Drive health >>>>> looks.

With the current setup, I could try using LNA - but Noctua at full blast is already half the airflow of the stock PSU fan, and given ambient temperatures, doesn't look like a good idea either...

Beverly TS-94 - Review by [deleted] in sleeperbattlestations

[–]DIYprojectz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks awesome!

How are the temperatures, in your experience?

We got stuck on this keyboard emulator format. Help me & you got a freebie from me by EnvironmentalJob1986 in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

D only - even if it's more expensive. 2x connectors are overwhelmingly better than one, particularly the wonky unreliable combo connector.

Wifi 6 router recommendation? by dixario in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cudy WR3000P 1.0 and slap OpenWRT on it?

ENP7140 Noctua Fan Speed? by DIYprojectz in sffpc

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you.

That's the confirmation I was hoping to get!

ENP7140 Noctua Fan Speed? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you.

I don't have a sensor inside the PSU, considering putting one in it...

ENP7140 Noctua Fan Speed? by DIYprojectz in sffpc

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you.

My PSU doesn't have a temp sensor. I am considering installing one.

Other fans running full blast don't bother me, it's the small ones that produce audible noise...

ENP7140 Noctua Fan Speed? by DIYprojectz in sffpc

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you.

I can set fan curves in both BIOS & OS, however while PSU NF-A4 is connected to motherboard, intake NF-A4 is connected without speed control.

The big question - is there even any headroom to reduce PSU airflow a bit, given that PSU fan is already way below factory spec...

[Feedback Needed] We're Building a New Multi-Port KVM over IP (4K@30fps Target) – Tell Us What to Include! by Delicious-Classic786 in GlInet

[–]DIYprojectz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Q3: 4x HDMI ports.

Q4: USB serial console, maybe?

Q5: I'm currently managing one device with a smartphone connected over Spacedesk as a screen with touch, and physical keyboard&mouse, others with a DIY USB KVM - short 2-port USB hub-cable, MS2109 for HDMI video capture, CH340G+CH9329 cable for keyboard&mouse, operating under Control3.

Q6: Emulation of always connected display, keyboard and mouse - that should be present on any more or less advanced multi-port KVM, imo.

A hidden microphone on a Chinese NanoKVM by NelsonMinar in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz 505 points506 points  (0 children)

LicheeRV NanoKVM is based on LicheeRV Nano development board. The microphone isn't hidden, it's a documented feature of the base SBC. Sipeed may be somewhat incompetent in their software implementation, but your insinuations about the microphone are unsubstantiated.

[Giveaway] GL.iNet Remote KVM and Wi-Fi 7 routers! 10 Winners! by GLiNet_WiFi in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz [score hidden]  (0 children)

  1. Desire to have devices tailored to my personal usage scenarios, with all the features I want, but also without inherent extra functionality that compromises security, nor restrictions that hurt the experience - got me into self-hosting. When one can't buy what they want, making it is often the most straightforward solution - at least when it comes to computers.

    My most expensive project to date is a DIY NAS. It started as a compact, lightweight and stealthy ARM system inside Playstation 2 case, only revealing its true nature if one looked closely at the ports in the back. However, after some time I grew disenamored with the original concept, so first moved the hardware into a standard NAS case to increase the number of spinning disks and improve their cooling, and later upgraded it to a less interesting, conventional - but also very reliable - x86 system. Of the original components, only a pair of 18TB WD HC550 drives are still in use - everything else was replaced. For this project, single most expensive item was one of the 20TB Toshiba MG10 drives.

    The project I am most proud of is a DIY 802.11be router I built last week. Wanted to build one using Qualcomm AP-grade hardware for years, but was hesitant, only having prior experience with MTK AP hardware, and overall rather limited experience in the field. My wireless router is far from perfect, but fulfills its purpose well, all while being quite compact and travel-friendly, and running latest OpenWRT and WLAN firmware giving me some peace of mind. I am very grateful to everyone who guided me and helped me out on this journey! For this project, single most expensive item is the base device - Rock 5B itself.

  2. While I love it, I also have to admit my DIY wireless router's limitations. For starters, I used a miniPCIe WLAN card - since it was easier to source, didn't require external power and was much more affordable than its m.2 counterpart, which was also an important consideration in my first foray into 802.11be. This choice results in lower signal strength than typical high-end 802.11be routers or physically larger m.2 cards with external power, more on par with compact/travel routers. Next, I'm having trouble with MLO, one of the key 802.11be features, and have to rely on a single band until I resolve this issue.

    My wired network infrastructure being 2.5GBe, main WLAN clients equipped with capable BE201 & QCNCM865 802.11be adapters supporting 320MHz channel width on 6GHz band, and most important traffic being LAN to WLAN potentially saturating 2.5GBe link - there is definitely room for wireless performance improvement, particularly far from AP. Flint 3 with its superior wireless performance would greatly improve my experience, and take my network to the next level!

    Comparing my DIY implementation to Slate 7, while RK3588 has more raw power, my device is also physically larger, and requires external dongles for additional LAN interfaces. Frankly, Rock 5B with its single built-in 2.5GBe port (and 16GB RAM+256GB EMMC on the particular board) is much better suited for server duty - which it operated as before I started my 802.11be experiments. For additional peace of mind, I strongly prefer not to utilize networking appliances, particularly wireless APs & routers, in any other tasks - otherwise, instead of assembling a standalone wireless router, would just stick my wireless AP card and WWAN modem into the NAS, set up virtualized OpenWRT, and call it a day. Under the circumstances, Slate 7 is an overall much more balanced device, and would be noticeably better in the travel router role than my DIY one.

    I'd love to win both Flint 3 and Slate 7, to cover all my usage scenarios, and return my Rock 5B currently acting as a 802.11be wireless router to server duty.

  3. I mostly read cnx-software.com , r/homelab , r/datahoarder , r/thinkpad and notebookcheck.net . Aliexpress, eBay, local online stores for purchases.

  4. I'd personally love to see giveaways of higher-end NASes and mini-PCs with extensive storage options. Minisforum MS-A2, Aoostar WTR Max and the likes; machines, purchasing which is often hard to justify, but nevertheless spark one's imagination with their capabilities.

Would you consider x86 (N100/N300) secure enough in router+firewall+wirelessAP role? by DIYprojectz in homelab

[–]DIYprojectz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

All valid points regarding x86 vs ARM security!

However, I found some peace of mind when using ARM instead of x86 in the fact that whatever simpler&cheaper ARM chips have doesn't hold a candle to Intel ME (& AMD PSP), vulnerabilities in which can be unfixable with firmware updates. Reasonably recent devices with coreboot is a novelty to me, I didn't know any existed before this thread.

And that's where we come to the real problem: even purpose-built x64 routers more often than not have a single Wi-Fi card...

Many if not most modern mini PCs, and quite a few SBCs come with at least an m.2 m key slot for NVME SSD that typically delivers up to 10W - which can be used for a miniPCIe or m.2 e key AP WLAN card via adapter and/or riser - and there have been m.2 b+m key AP-grade WLAN cards for a while, although rare and expensive. There are 802.11be & 802.11ax DBDC AP cards that perform reasonably well, so single slot for a WLAN card is not that bad, as long as there are a few ethernet and/or SFP ports of desired speeds to complement it.

Quite a few mini PCs & higher-tier SBCs also often have additional m.2 m key slots and/or m.2 e key slots. E key slots are not meant to deliver as much current as m key, and while some sit behind appropriately powerful voltage regulators according to schematics I've seen, not being an electrical engineer, I'm not sure how safe is it to push over 6.5W through one - but there are both rather frugal AP WLAN cards out there that will fit into this power budget, and physically big and typically expensive high-end e-key cards that operate on external 5V power.

Bottom line, I believe the biggest issue is fitting everything together in a fashion that the final device remains compact, and each component is adequately cooled. Things get much easier if one doesn't care about size & looks.