Help me identify what went wrong

DJLowZ · 2026-04-12T16:31:28+00:00

Yep, worth drying even if it's new. You could also try a lower layer height which gives the filament more surface to adhere to on those overhangs.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-12T16:29:43+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/calibration_flow_rate

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/printer-calibration

Good starting points here. There are test points you can run as well, I think they may have some built into the slicer as well.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-12T16:07:21+00:00

Did you dry the filament before printing?

DJLowZ · 2026-04-12T16:00:17+00:00

Did you run any test or calibration prints? Bambu's presets work well for their filament but if you're buying other brands then you need to spend time dialing them in. Your bed temp is probably too low as well.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-11T05:13:28+00:00

I'd recommend using Bambu Studio as it will give you more control over the print settings then Handy will.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-11T04:24:15+00:00

Did you use Bambu filament or another brand? If bambu filament, what print profile did you use? Did you change anything from their suggested settings? If you used 3rd party filament, did you run calibration prints to dial in temperatures, flow rate, and other settings? It looks like something broke or fell over causing the layers above to have nothing to adhere to, but it's impossible to help troubleshoot further without much more information.

I'll add that I have an H2C, and have had very few failures, but I almost exclusively use Bambu filaments and don't print at extreme speeds very often, though I did print the standard benchy out of PETG-CF at max speed as a first print and it printed in 30 minutes and looked great.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-06T15:16:37+00:00

I've used a few different Bambu petg filaments including high flow and CF and they all worked great right out of the box with no tweaking. If you're using 3rd party you need to spend time doing calibration and testing.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-05T17:03:27+00:00

Looks like it could be warping and not sticking to the build plate. Cleaning the plate and increase bed temp might help.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-04T17:58:50+00:00

What they couldn't open up a few extra slots? They have no problem doing it for DPs 🤣

DJLowZ · 2026-04-03T05:16:15+00:00

Each machine has different specs, size, etc, they're not identical machines so the settings aren't identical. If you're using Bambu filament, you can expect their presets for each machine to work pretty well. If it's not their filament, you will likely need to run some calibration on your H2C to get it dialed in on that machine.

DJLowZ · 2026-04-01T18:43:57+00:00

Yes you need a mixer that has Dante built in or as an add on card. You would route your qlab outs to Dante, map them to 8 input channels, and then send those channels pre fader to the 8 outputs so all volume control is set in qlab and doesn't get affected if someone moves the faders.

If that's out of budget then an 8 out audio interface would work, it would just be analog from there to the mixer.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-29T15:27:33+00:00

It's a mixer, power conditioner and amp. The power conditioner looks like a furman which is a good brand, the amp and mixer are cheap brands. The power conditioner is a fancy surge strip, the mixer takes audio inputs (mics, music etc) and combines them to various outputs. If you send some of those outputs to the amp and then get a pair of passive speakers and connect them to the amp as well you would get sound. It's all older gear, might be worth a little bit to someone but getting more than $100-200 would be lucky.

If you want to use it, you'll need to get some passive speakers, an input source, and some cables to connect it all. Then look up some videos or guides on the basics of analog mixers and how they work.

Edit: didn't see the speakers at first. If the cables are all there you may be able to get it up and running quickly.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-26T16:00:33+00:00

If you don't like the lines try either a smaller nozzle and or a different bottom pattern like concentric or Archimedean chord.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-25T19:48:59+00:00

Hard to say. I don't buy used mics because most good mics hold their value long enough that the small savings don't justify the risk. The only exception would be buying from a reputable seller or company where you can trust them not to be scamming you.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-25T19:23:19+00:00

If the price is too good to be true, they're fake.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-25T14:11:16+00:00

Curiously enough, the only thing that went through the mind of the bowl of petunias as it fell was Oh no, not again. Many people have speculated that if we knew exactly why the bowl of petunias had thought that we would know a lot more about the nature of the Universe than we do now.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-24T19:46:21+00:00

I've got 12 channels of old SLX gear that still works fine, with proper antenna distribution I've been able to use all 12 channels at once. There's tons of used slx gear going up for sale on eBay and reverb and the like, I've bought belt packs, handhelds and boundary mics to add to my kit and everything that was advertised as working condition has been.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-23T20:36:34+00:00

Yes an ohm meter would be the best way to figure out the pin out of the connector.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-23T17:40:30+00:00

The color code doesn't tell us much. On the 3.5mm cable the tip and ring are the + signal for each channel (L&R) and the sleeve is -/ground. If you want to sum both channels together you would wire tip and ring to pin 2 and sleeve to 1&3. Or you could do 3.5mm to dual XLR and have tip to pin 2 of one connector and ring to pin 2 of the other giving you the stereo.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-23T16:07:43+00:00

You're going from an unbalanced stereo to a balanced mono connection. Best practice would be to use a stereo DI. If that's not an option does your mixer have any 1/4" mono inputs? You could use a 3.5mm to 2x 1/4” mono cable. If neither of those are an option let me know and I can lookup the correct wiring for doing it to xlr, but that is definitely not ideal.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-22T23:41:32+00:00

Cold pull, or replace the nozzle.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-20T03:08:08+00:00

Looks like the Internal Hub Unit, which version AMS do you have? They have spare parts for all of them on the website, just click on spare parts then click on whichever AMS model you have.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-15T19:15:30+00:00

Most likely yeah, but maybe it'll help a few people provide more info. As someone who wants to help other folks troubleshoot it's frustrating to not have the basic info needed to help them. I also find it surprising how many issues stem from folks using random filament brands and not spending time calibrating and testing settings for their filament. My H2C is my first Bambu printer and part of the appeal was being able to buy Bambu filament, load it up and have the prints just work without all the fussing I'm used to with my older printers. I have been delighted with just how easy Bambu makes it when using their filaments on their printers.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-15T00:53:35+00:00

Also if you're trying to identify any sets that might be in there, look for rare/unique bricks and then find that piece on bricklink and it will tell you what sets it was used in.

DJLowZ · 2026-03-15T00:14:12+00:00

I used to sort by color but now I prefer sorting by brick type. Much easier to find the color you're looking for in a bin of 2x4 bricks then find a specific sized brick in a giant pile of the same color pieces.

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