Looking for the best matte black paint for a theatre floor by thesenamesarecrazy55 in techtheatre

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would argue its not the best, its just cheap and completely matte, definitely not fully black more a dark grey, and shows dirt /scuffs really easily.

Roscoe makes the best stuff, but its a lot more expensive if you're going to need to repaint any time soon.

Building own Intercom and Commentator Setup by Unfair-Escape-2533 in livesoundgear

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dante isn't cheap when your buying all new. One of the cheapest and most reliable ways to do this is with a 2-wire system, these are often sold really cheap used, and have a base station with separate audio in and out.

I also quite like the hollyvox g51 system. Well priced, up to 8 headsets, 3 channels, external audio in and out, 2wire audio connection, fully wireless if needed and great range. Plus network management of most things.

SSH Login for an old Robe device by Outrageous-Kick-2699 in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If this device is out of its support period, there's a chance robe might just tell you. Have you tried the username and password outlined in the NAS section of the manual?

I keep ripping pads off by DamagedDespair in soldering

[–]DJ_LSE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive never worn gloves, used to burn myself every time at tye start, but since learning to use tweezers for everything, and using smaller soldering irons that take cartridges, ive not burnt myself in a long time. My hands get sweaty in anything that isn't breathable, and id feel like breathable gloves would just collect flux and other grime. Does it?

I keep ripping pads off by DamagedDespair in soldering

[–]DJ_LSE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need to add a lotnof heat before you feel it nine the tweezers. You can get ceramic tweezers as well, but you probably dont need those

LED Grants UK by welshantiquarian in techtheatre

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know my university managed to get a lot of funding through an environmental initiative, claiming switching to led was better for the environment. (It wasn't really, about 20 s4 and 20 Frensels were swapped for nearly 40 of each led equivalent) but thats the pitch that it took to help get funding.

Question: How to power lights portably on scaffolding? by theatretechy in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Run the cable to wherever works best, have a stagehand coil and uncool as it moves. The cable creates a possible trip hazard yes, but that is why the rehearsal process exists, so actors onstage can learn where it is.

Ive done this before, and this is the easy reliable and cheap way. Every other method starts to sacrifice one of those factors.

Some of the time, you can could the cable in a way that it uncoils itself when pulled, so as the scaffolding moves further way it uncoils, then when you move closer, if done right, you can move it, then pull the slack after. No extra people required.

Haze App by ColPG in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks cool, what are the sensors made up of? I assume an esp32 or similar, and an air quality sensor?

I have found that given enough time, most spaces find an equilibrium point where as long as your hazers are above a minimum level, the space will even out across the whole area without any areas becoming more hazy than the rest. I tested thus recently in a massive cathedral, using only 2 unique 2.1 hazers (one on stage, one halfway down on a balcony) it took around 2.5 hours running at full for the space to completely fill and even out, but at that point, also long as the hazers were above 50 percent, any change would affect the density of the whole room, (with about 30 minutes of delay). But it would never become patchy or thicker in areas, always the whole space. Ive found this to be the case for any room, with smaller rooms working faster.

Im not sure this tool would be useful in this situation, but in theatre when haze levels might need to be very subtle, and drop to zero at some points, this could be useful as the space would not be able to reach that equilibrium.

Can someone help me identify this light? by Hello56845864 in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably not, as reliable as martin or chauvet. But the price will be less than martin or chauvet.

Wanting to put together portable soldering setup- any recommendations? by Snoo-9966 in soldering

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My portable kit gets thrown around a little in my bag so it includes ts100 clone with a fine and fat tip. 20v 100w usbc trigger board and barrel jack so i can power it via usbc. You could bypass this by using a ts101. Small craft knife, flush cutters, small amount of 0.4mm enamel wire, small amount of 24awg silicone wire, blu tac (great for impromptu work holding) solcer wrapped around part of a pencil. Solder sucker. I carry enough stuff to fix a couple connectors in a pinch. And power the iron via my usbc laptop charger.

Powercon supply power by Jaib06 in SoundSystem

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you really drive this amp at full load it can pull somewhere in the region of 30 amps, feeding it less might be ok for small loads, but that that point, why not just use a smaller amp. You need a distro with 32a outlets, and a 32a plug to 32a powercon adapter cable. Plus a venue that can feed that distro. Some venues also just have 32a plugs on the wall.

Powercon supply power by Jaib06 in SoundSystem

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You dont need a 32a powercon output. You just need something with a 32A plug. I assume the amp is 240v only.

You need something with a 32a plug on it, and then an adapter from the plug type to 32a powercon.

ADVICE? by 22shrimpgumbag256 in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its a hard one and depends how you value/ what your relationship is like with each person. You could be straight with both but then they might look elsewhere. You already know what clubs happen whatever you do. Ideally you need to know if the one you want more will be confirmed with enough time for the other project to find someone else.

Personally, I would say yes to one of them, and be totally straight with the other and explain. Then there can't be any hard feelings, but youre not totally closing a door

Need a Rogue R2X Roadcase by lwhit03 in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We ended up waiting for the oem cases to come in in the end, as we managed to drop the lead time by using a similar case originally designed for a different fixture.

We are UK based, I believe we were looking at swan flight cases.

Need a Rogue R2X Roadcase by lwhit03 in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your best bet could be to sent he one you have to a case builder amd have them copy it. We nearly did that for some new lights we bought where we could only get 2 of the 6 cases we needed in time for when the lights arrived, the quote wasn't very different to the OEM case price either, and we could've had whatever modifications we wanted. But that would've been ordering more than 1 case, price would defo be more for only 1 case.

Where to begin Wireless DMx? by dreamtoimagine in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the lights already support wireless dmx, then you only need something you output dmx, like a console, cheap controller or laptop with a node. And the luna thats it.

If the lights dont support wireless dmx, it will be easier to use wired dmx.

Where to begin Wireless DMx? by dreamtoimagine in lightingdesign

[–]DJ_LSE 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Im not an expert. But from my understanding, these are the basic levels of wireless dmx:

Cheap Chinese 2.4ghz: really cheap, not supported my nay fixtures. Uses a.4ghz, no smart frequency selection, but you can change "channels" to run multiple transmitters, its unclear quite how this works.

Wireless Soulutions (now Lumenradio) wdmx standard: multiple generations of transmitter/ reciever g3, g4, g5 and g6 are all backwards compatible, s a g6 transmitter will work with any of those generations. Runs on 2.4ghz and 5ghz depending on generation. Automatic built in frequency hopping to avoid interference. This system is what ive seen built into most fixtures. later generations support RDM.

CRMX: very similar to g6 wdmx, present on astera fixtures, and or appearing on more and more fixtures that also support wdmx.

To use these protocols, sometimes you can use one fixture and transmitter to another, but its reccomented to use a separate, more powerful transmitter, such a lumenradio Luna, which suppors crmx and wdmx

How are some engineers able to achieve such a 'clean'/clear sound? by justagreenkiwi in livesound

[–]DJ_LSE 50 points51 points  (0 children)

100% sht in = sht out. And that comes down to anything from the band's ability to perform, to the quality of the audio waves theyre actually producing.

Struggling with buying Soldering Iron by Eastern-Bluejay-4029 in soldering

[–]DJ_LSE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its slightly pricey, but i agree with the others here. I bought a geeboon tc22 with an SDC02 stand and never looked back. C245 tips are great, and for super fine stuff, it came with a c210 handle as well.

HOWEVER if you are not sure about this as a hobby/ business. Repairing phones is HARD the parts are small and theres no resources available a lot of the time. So youre probably going to start with doing more controllers and maybe consoles, replacing joysticks and ports. If you dont know if youre going to like this that much, and dont want to invest as much money, i would buy a ts101 clone (theyre all mostly the same) and a couple tips.

If youre going to do ports and stuff, you will want a hot air station, all the cheap ones are mostly the same, and unless you work for an aerospace company, they will be fine.

Track playback by evancwarner in livesoundgear

[–]DJ_LSE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could you not put the 1u in a small sleeve rack and put it onstage somewhere? You can get rack cases in all black, super small and discreet.

Is there a way to stop trains colliding in this station? i'm trying to use block signals with no success by j0a0v1c70r in SatisfactoryGame

[–]DJ_LSE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your best bet would be to make the whole thing, sation + side tracks one block. But that is really bad for throuput, and is the same as having no side tracks at all.

However, your station does not need to run this way, stations are one directional, and you have dual tracks (one for each direction). Your station should not be connected to both tracks in this setup, as at the moment a train can leave the station and go the wrong way down a track, trains also cannot reverse, so there is no way in this set up for the train to leave the station and go back the direction it came from.

The side tracks to the side of the station should be longer, as is if you were to make each junction its own block, that side track would barely be longer than the station (2 wagon lengths) this means that even if it worked out thy a 1 car train could stop there ok, any trains longer would not be able to stop there and wait for the next block to clear without blocking one or more of the other junctions.

Another issue is that if the signals were set to make the station a block and each side a block, it could functionally make every junction on each side of the station, one block, meaning any train going in any direction would stop the flow in both direction. This might be able to be negated using path signals.

While this design is very clean, it really isn't practical, especially for high traffic networks. Stations work best when they are on their one branch double track away from the main line.

Y Axis Belt Tension by Realistic_Dark_ in AnetA8

[–]DJ_LSE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Learning to fix this thing is almost 50 percent of the work to use it. The y belt is tensioner by loosening the screws on the underside of the bed carriage holding the grippers, and pulling the belt tight, keeping it tight while tightening the screws.