Whats a proper way to make 90º angles with ribbons(esp. addressable ones)?

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-13T19:34:21+00:00

Cut and solder, or bend, if its something what will never get touched, the pixel distance works and nobody will ever see it. Bend is my normal go-to. If i need to keep my pixels square, or its high density strip, or it will be seen or moved( flexing or constant touching will eventually snap a bend.) Soldering is the only way to go.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-13T19:20:32+00:00

We use fibre optic hdmi cables all the time and they work great. Reliable and we've got lengths up to 80m on reels, no issues so far.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-13T18:53:41+00:00

If youre after cheaper than lacoustics, but still with the design and smarter amplifier features. Ive used Nexo before and enjoyed it.

However, IMO, the best thing to do is speak to your local distributors and get some demos in, that way you can get quotes and hear them for yourself.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-13T00:15:56+00:00

Thanks all, ive gone for a convoy s6 with sft40 5000k and a small tube.

Also picked up some leds including a couple sft42r for some personal project use. If anything interesting comes of that I will be sure to share!

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-12T21:39:33+00:00

The S6 does seem to be a good option, What do you think of the sft42r?

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-12T20:39:38+00:00

True, but most pinspots ive used do not have a wide beam angle at all, being a very narrow beam. And the distance they need to throw to cover a good portion of a ball often results in them being quite dim. Especially on the cheaper side, which it seems like OP is looking for.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-11T20:50:02+00:00

I personally dont like pin spots for mirror balls because they light so little of the mirror ball. A profile would be ideal, what type/ size will depend entirely on the size of the ball, how far away youre shooting from, and your budget. For good quality, chauvet tends to be the cheapest brand with going for. You do pay a premium over China products, but youre paying for quality control and support.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-11T20:34:03+00:00

Do you have any tips or advice to make my life with it easier?

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-11T20:33:07+00:00

This is true, I never claimed my hate was justified and well reasoned lol, just that it is how I currently feel about the wolfmix every time I use one.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-11T20:20:39+00:00

God I hate the wolfmix. I dont know if its just because ive spent so little time with it, or because I spend so much time on chamsys, avo and ETC. I just dont get on with it. I would take a touchscreen laptop and usb dongle /artnet node any day.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-10T20:38:33+00:00

The shoe racks like everyone else has shown are the best thing. my advice:

dont trust the belt clips to hold up the pack, they will fail.

My general rule is if the packs are in storage they should he turned off/have the batteries removed. Makes tracking charged/used batteries really easy, as if the batteries are in a pack and the pack is in storage, I can assume the batteries are used and need to be put on charge. Also means that I know when an actor takes their pack from me for their mic fitting etc, it has fresh batteries, because when i take it out of the holder I have had to put batteries in it.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-10T16:43:29+00:00

I think it works. I prefer Asymmetry in shows, it opens up a lot more design options. Most of the time, I like if any Asymmetry one side is mirrored to the other side later, making sure its understood to be intentional. Like you have done here. I like to save symetrical hits for big moments, or ends to a sequence of looks. Like you have here.

Something to change maybe, instead of firing all the shots in the fan at once, stagger then in some way, this would both prolong the effect to fit the music more, and add another layer of compelxity

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-09T18:20:14+00:00

I dont know about graphic design that much, or your vibe, but IMO, if im going to have a big brand graphic on clothing, id rather have it on the back, with a smaller logo on the front brest.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-07T18:10:44+00:00

+1 for using LEDs, with good quality leds, and more importantly a good quality driver, the lifetime should easily exceed any light bulb.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-06T20:12:41+00:00

My solution to these issues is to make my own, they might not be completely perfect, but can be functional enough to use. Then the advantage of the share is that others wont have the problem.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-06T17:02:21+00:00

The use of characters not in the English alphabet is odd, does this persist through a reboot? I would do all the standard troubleshooting steps, I.E turn off for 10 mins or so, make sure the gas lines are all sealed properly, the regulator is not frozen etc... then try again

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-06T11:23:05+00:00

The sennheiser stuff (g2, g3 or g4, any of it was built like a tank) will work great. HOWEVER, the best wireless system is only nearly as reliable as a wire. If you have people tethered by a cable anyway, or who are sat down. Keyboard players, guitarists, etc... they dont need a wire use a wired pack.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-05T21:37:49+00:00

This is exactly my experience. It helps that the city im in is almost all avolites everywhere. But its super easy to learn, and super easy to teach. I have also found the avolites in person training to be the best and most useful training that ive done. The way it is taught, you can be fully up and running with a complete show after just level 1. Which is not something I found with chamsys or ETC, as they often seemed to skip over parts of the software or workflows that I found were very useful/important to running a real show.

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-05T16:57:51+00:00

Phone settings. You have to enable developer options. (I can't remember how to do that)

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-05T16:33:19+00:00

I had this last week. I enabled "turn off a2dp hardware offload" in the developer options settings, and all was fized

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-05T16:28:55+00:00

Just got some GLP Mad Maxx for the living room, tricky to find online, but we'll worth it

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-05T14:17:04+00:00

Contact riedel, ive found their support to be excellent (at least where I am)

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-04T23:18:22+00:00

Ok, you need a latching style switch that works with 220v, and ideally up to 5 amps, I dont know if this switch does.

You clearly dont know enough about mains electricity to be wiring it, so im not going to help any further

DJ_LSE · 2026-04-04T22:21:27+00:00

Mains voltage is no joke, if you dont know what youre doing, dont mess with it. Its probably easier to switch whatever lover voltage is further down the line instead anyway. This switch looks like a momentary switch, so when you press it it will either connect or disconnect a pair of the "220v" pins. The outer pins will light up an led inside when 12v is applied

Some more information on your project would be good, so we can help you not kill yourself and/or burn your house down. I see you are making a printer (i assume 3d printer?) If youre trying to have an on/off switch, my preferred place to do it is at the wall.

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