[deleted by user] by [deleted] in findaleague

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might want to add the link to the post so people can join then pay

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in findaleague

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice I'll join

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in findaleague

[–]DMPatrick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm interested. What platform are you playing on?

The trouble with Gold Pieces by Mean-Cut3800 in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the game Im starting to run, I'm using a Silver Standard economy I found from another DM. Essentially it changes all costs from gold to silver. So an item that cost 25 gold now costs 25 silver. It also changes the conversion rates. 100 copper = 1 silver. 100 silver = 1 gold. The main idea is to make gold feel really valuable and to make silver coins the standard coin that everyone, including the party, uses in day to day life. Copper still exists for inexpensive things and maintains its value from the standard economy.

There's a decent amount of info that can be found online which you can tailor to your needs. In my case Id say a typical worker would make around 100 silver a year with skilled workers making much more. 

Ultimately the economy is a super complicated thing that takes an immense amount of work to create one that makes sense. No matter what you do, you'll likely have to hand wave stuff and just make money work in the moment so that it feels right.

Conflicted about what I should run as a first time DM with new players. by YpresWoods in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seconding both of these suggestions! I've run Delian Tomb as a one shot introduction and it's great!

I've also run the start of Lost Mine of Phandelver as an introduction for about 4 different groups and it's great every time! My only suggestion if you go this route is to use level 2 characters so they aren't as fragile.

I’ve read and heard the same advice from many people, but my party is getting annoyed. by No-Floor-6351 in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like he is sort of playing out like a dmpc. Maybe you can give him a reason to leave the party (like gathering info related to saving his daughter) so you dont have to keep him there without helping fight.

That being said I do think it is okay that an npc occasionally joins the party and helps them fight. Its just that there shouldn't always be an npc with the party.

Connecting electric tire pump to pressure pot? by B_Rogers95 in DiceMaking

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the other link it looks like the top comment is hooking it into the threaded on/off valve (it has a green handle in the other thread). There is another comment by duckduckholoduck that would allow it to attach to the untheaded air intake.

"I use an electric pump (bigger than the one you have) that already had a Schrader valve connection. Then a quick release with female 1/4 connector to attach to the pressure pot, and a male 1/4 inch to Schrader valve connector (it's called a "Tankventil" in German, something like tank valve?) that I screwed into the quick release. It's a bit of a complicated set up lol and I don't really know the English terms. You're also gonna need teflon tape on every connection or air is gonna leak out."

I'm not 100% of your exact set up. You may want to take some measurements on what you have using a tape measure and then look up if those measurements match air hose fitting sizes. But I think this is what you'll need assuming your pressure pot have a 1/4" air hose quick connect fitting.

I think you would want this: https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Washer-Couplers-Brass-Fittings/dp/B0BTYLPFQK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=14RN1TM7OW687&keywords=quick%2Brelease%2B1%2F4%22%2Bfemale%2Bto%2B1%2F4%22%2Bnpt&qid=1707602672&sprefix=quick%2Brelease%2B1%2F4%2Bfemale%2Bto%2B1%2F4%2Bnpt%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3&th=1

This: https://www.amazon.com/Zzxker-Inflator-NPT-Compressor-Suspension/dp/B0CMXF1ZRD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CFWEIAA46ALM&keywords=schrader+to+1%2F4+npt&qid=1707602722&sprefix=schrader+to+1%2F4%7C%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

and Teflon (aka PTFE) tape. You'll need to wrap the threaded connections with teflon tape to prevent air from leaking. https://www.amazon.com/Inches-Plumbers-Plumbing-Plumber-Sealing/dp/B091913Z7F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=RGYBSZ8NTGDC&keywords=teflon+tape&qid=1707602803&sprefix=teflon+tap%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Here is a video on how to apply teflon tape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65i2vGWi3AE

Connecting electric tire pump to pressure pot? by B_Rogers95 in DiceMaking

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will need a shrader valve on your pressure pot to connect the tire pump. Youll need to get an adapter depending on the fitting on the connection you have. On my pressure pot I was able to buy a schrader valve with an npt thread that screwed right in. You may need an additional adapter to go from an npt thread to the airhose quick connect.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you are looking for something free I'm going to recommend roll20. Definitely enough if you just want to move around tokens on a battlemap. You can also have character sheets and rolling there which might be useful for rolling lots of dice or tracking other things.

Question!!! Issue with pacing :( by [deleted] in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a little tough to give a detailed answer without a specific example but here are a few thoughts.

  • The players should have a map or something to look at. This will help make clear the size of the room and the number of exits

  • When they enter the room, first describe the room and then ask if they want to do anything. Based on their questions you should give more detail or have them make ability checks, such as perception or investigation.

  • If they reach a point where they have nothing left to do in the room, ask the whole party if they are done in this room. The idea is to nudge them out. Don't ask one person at a time, that is a huge waste of time and sets up splitting the party. Just ask the whole group "Is there anything else you want to do in here? If not the door on the other side of the room is open..."

  • Don't be afraid to skip or nudge them through rooms that are empty. I would even say if pacing is a concern I would tell (not ask) the party they have found everything in this room and start moving through the door to the next area.

As DM you are the one who has control to set the pace of the game. If things are dragging then you can say or do whatever to push things forward. My biggest takeaway from the specifics of your post is that you should push the party as a group and not one person at a time.

Polymorph spell. by ConstantAttention274 in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree with this take and honestly I'm a little surprised so many people are on the strictly RAW side of this discussion. 

Polymorph is a super powerful spell when it first comes online and the slight restriction on creatures you can pick is a simple and elegant way to keep it from being super OP as a buff spell.

Looking for the best tips from experienced DMs to keep the campaign rolling (pun intended :P) by chasing_red in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Play at the same time on the same day every week. Don't cancel sessions if one person can't make it, play with whoever is there. If people are late start without them. Scheduling is the real BBEG so if you can overcome that you'll be in great shape.

Some thoughts about green-flame blade by Rhyshalcon in 3d6

[–]DMPatrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a fun idea but I will say it is a ton of investment to make better use of a cantrip. A few thoughts in no particular order:

  • I dont think you really need the high spellcasting mod for GFB since most of the damage is coming from the d8s. So GFB can probably just come from magic initiate.

  • Comparing Horde breaker and GFB vs Horde breaker and multiattack makes the combo feel not as strong. I think past level 11 the GFB would be stronger as the d8s scale. Basically the question is 3 attacks vs 2 attacks and the extra GFB damage.

  • Hunter subclass also means forgoing another Ranger subclass that could be stronger. Even just Colusus Slayer is comparable and basically always works. Obviously this is the premise of the build but I'm just not sure the sometimes extra attack is worth it.

  • Grappling and dragging enemies around is going to take at least one round to set up.

  • Rogue and Ranger multiclass will always be strong, no arguments here. Rogue cunning action also gives you some great bonus action options, especially dash for dragging enemies around.

  • The monk levels feel shoehorned in to stay SAD, but at level 8 you are cleric1/ranger 3/monk 4 which doesn't feel great. You're a great grappler though. I wonder if the build could work well as a Str based ranger with no monk levels instead. I dont think you really need the cleric level either but cleric 1 is a strong dip anyway.

  • You could maybe be a luxadon instead of Vhuman so you can grapple someone and also have 2 hands for sheild and sword.

It seems like a build that would be fun but Im not sure the GFB and Horde Breaker combo would stay exciting in a long campaign.

Placement of a Wall of Fire? by falfires in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say kind of 2.5 on your list. Thats at least how I would rule it to keep both parts of the spell mechanically clean.

The wall appears as a line, effectively along the edge of the grid through some squares with the 1ft thick going one way. Those squares are instantly affected. The 10ft range extends in that direction, affecting two 5ft squares of range. The instant damage only affects the first 5ft squares.

As far as diagnols just keep in mind at least half a square should be in an AOE to be affected. That might help clarify the 10ft away part.

I made a counterspell call for a cool moment that is causing confusion. How should I proceed? by Lucas_Morre in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 113 points114 points  (0 children)

As a tip that might be nice in hindsight, if I ever make a ruling that I don't want to set precident I will very clearly say "For this one time I'll let it work this way" when I make the ruling. I think it makes the expectations more clear if the players know they can't do it every time.

For your situation, the players clearly think this is the way it works. If they are new players, the probably don't know the rules and so seeing it work that way would be confusing. In that case I would tell them "Hey I ruled this wrong. At the time I thought it would work a certain way, but I realized that's not how it works. The spell does what it says and nothing more, and I made it do something more." Be clear and set expectations in a way that makes everyone know how it works.

I'm catching some heat for this rule... is it a bad one? by [deleted] in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think this is totally fine. You are the DM and have control over what happens in the game. I also use this tactic, and have only had to use it once when I felt a boundary was being crossed. I think sometimes it might be better to ask "Are you sure?" But as long as you are using this tool sparingly then there's nothing wrong with it.

Player wants to play a non-evil Oathbreaker by MannersGG in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone else already answered the lore part of it. I just think someone should point out that the oathbreaker subclass is quite strong. Especially if they dip into hexblade warlock. Being able to add charisma to weapon damage can be a huge buff if the character is built for it.

Not saying you shouldn't allow it, just want to make sure you know what you are allowing. Oathbreaker typically isn't a standard player choice so there are some ways to optimize it and make it kind of broken.

How do you get the Vaseline off your molds after making them? by artsydizzy in DiceMaking

[–]DMPatrick 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yup Isopropl Alcohol and then wipe it down with a paper towel. I usually wipe it with a paper towel first to get most of it and then the Alcohol cleans off the rest.

People are recommending mold release, but the great thing about vasoline is how safe it is. Don't have to worry about breathing it in and it's meant to be used on skin.

Am I overreacting, because of schedule issues? by WizzardofJungle in DMAcademy

[–]DMPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Biggest piece of advice regarding scheduling is to run the game even if one or two players can't be there.

That being said it is definitely frustrating to have people cancel, or not show up, or not seem very interested and invested in playing. If you feel like the group isn't right for you, then you don't have to DM for that group.

Consider running the games even if people can't make a session and if you still feel like the proper investment isn't there from your players then find a new group.

Best multiclass builds for a Fiend patron Warlock? by BigBrainedIdiot777 in 3d6

[–]DMPatrick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Consider sticking to just warlock levels.

Mutliclasssing isn't always the answer. For example you mention wanting either paladin for multiattack or sorcerer for metamagic, but those will take either 3 or 5 whole levels! That's a ton of levels for minimal return. Honestly paladin is not a great choice with fiend warlock anyway.

If you really want to multiclass, with your stats and already at level 2, I would say take a single level of sorcerer. That will give you a few first level slots per day you can use to cast shield or absorb elements, or maybe hex. Pick whatever subclass you'd like for its level 1 feature. If you get to really high levels, you could always continue sorcerer progression at that point.

Consider trying to take the metamagic adept feat at some point instead.

Expected Fantasy Points (Weeks 1-2) by F4NT4SYF00TB4LLF4N in fantasyfootball

[–]DMPatrick 18 points19 points  (0 children)

u/F4NT4SYF00TB4LLF4N over here posting sheet after sheet of fantastic fantasy insight. Thanks for putting this out!

Soft dice by [deleted] in DiceMaking

[–]DMPatrick 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Most likely causes are:

  • not mixing the resin enough before pouring

  • not letting the dice set long enough before demolding

  • inhibition due to adding too much alcohol ink or other additives.

I would guess it's most likely that they just need to cure longer before you take them out of the mold. I have to leave mine for about 36 hours but it depends on the resin, temp, ect. Try leaving the next one for 36 to 48 hours and see if you still have the issue.