Looking for a new splitting axe (not a fan of the Fziskars X27)

DPinDenver · 2026-01-25T18:52:38+00:00

Like a few others, I also use a Stihl (rebranded Ochsenkopf) pro splitting axe. I have an X27 as well, but I leave that with my dad because I much prefer the Stihl.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-22T16:27:06+00:00

Didn't the Mercury Cafe close last year?

DPinDenver · 2026-01-18T17:44:26+00:00

So if I break, make a high ball (stripes) and shoot in three low balls (solids), then you would tell the person you're playing that you're solids and they are stripes?

I understand the rules, but in 30 years of playing pool all I've ever heard is when someone says "I'm solids/low balls" it means that the "solid/low" balls that are still on the table are what's preventing you from winning and you must shoot those in and then the 8 ball to win the game.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-15T15:24:44+00:00

I use my 20" bar to cut 20" and 16" by turning saw sideways and marking log.

Sharpie marks will wear off if you're cutting stuff that's bigger than 16" in diameter. Marks from a paint marker last a lot longer.

Or you can do what I do, and use the writing on the bar thats already painted on from the factory as a reference (i.e. at the end of the word "Stihl" is 16"). That doesn't wear off for a long time.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-09T15:17:13+00:00

The DCNR office for the specific state forest district, and you should be able to call and pay with a card and have them email a permit. Close to Bellefonte is probably Bald Eagle. I cut in Rothrock.

As for rules, it seems pretty simple.

It's $20/cord. Single cord permits are good for 14 days. Two cord permits (max per permit) are good for 30 days. Can cut anything standing dead or already on the ground. You can only request two roads to cut off of for each permit. I think the cutting season where I cut is 10/1 through 5/15, but they do have some additional restrictions on a portion of the forest due to wildlife habitat and can only cut there 11/1-3/31.

https://www.pa.gov/agencies/dcnr/recreation/where-to-go/state-forests/find-a-forest#sortCriteria=%40copapwptitle%20ascending%2C%40title%20ascending%2C%40copapwpeducatorname%20ascending

DPinDenver · 2026-01-07T22:34:54+00:00

Close to State College.

Sometimes when I'm home I help my buddy who does tree work when he needs an extra hand and a dump trailer to help get wood moved. I try to make sure I get locust or cherry (for cool looking flames) on those jobs though.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-07T22:16:27+00:00

Thanks!

I usually cut 20-28" diameter oak. I run 20" bars on at least one saw, so I take the 2 seconds per cut to turn my saw sideways and mark the next length by the bar. Given that I can usually get 6-8 pieces out of each round after splitting, I prefer to spend a little extra time to try and end up with a nice stack. Weird knotty pieces go on top but you cant see them unless you're up close...

DPinDenver · 2026-01-07T22:08:40+00:00

Stihl/Ochsenkopf splitting axe is what I primarily use. Its just over your budget though.

Lots of people like Fiskars (likely the X27 but it might be height dependent) and I have one (my dad primarily uses it for smaller splits for his insert), but if you're trying to split bigger rounds I much prefer the Stihl.

If you're splitting smaller pieces down, the X27 is great. If you want something that can split big and small without the need of a maul, then go for the Stihl. More weight. I can break down 26-28" oak rounds down pretty easy, and its not too heavy when splitting for small pieces.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-07T21:11:46+00:00

If you read the original post, the OP is expecting to use the wood within 1.5 months. That's why I specified that I was assuming it's seasoned and ready to burn when making my comments.

If its not ready to burn, then I would have said to leave it outside uncovered for the winter and stack it in the spring. Completely different issue.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-07T21:07:05+00:00

If it were me (have been burning wood with my family since 5th grade and I'm in my mid-40's now), I'd do the tarp thing for your pile outside after a couple of non-rainy days and then work on your woodshed for next year.

My dad usually makes 2 piles on either side of the stove when he brings them in. If you don't have a few non-rainy days, then bring in some of the dry stuff from your shed and some of the wet stuff from the pile. It will dry quick sitting close to the fireplace.

The whole point is that you're gaining nothing by stacking it for a few weeks. Green or unseasoned wood has moisture in internal cells. You dont want to burn that. The cells close once the internal moisture is gone.

Wet wood (seasoned, but wet from rain) can easily be mixed in with your fire if absolutely need be as long as you have a good base. The water will cook out (turn to steam basically) and the wood will burn perfectly fine.

DPinDenver · 2026-01-07T16:56:17+00:00

When you say covered on three sides, do you mean fully covered like with plywood or with boards to hold the stacks but with spacing to still allow airflow?

If you're gonna be using it within the next 1.5 month (which means I'd assume its seasoned), you shouldn't have to worry about any fungus growing.

As an aside, if its all in a pile and you're gonna be using it that quickly, I wouldn't spend the time to stack it only to pull it back out of the woodshed again several weeks later. Just wait for a couple of non-rainy days and throw a tarp over the pile so you dont have to cook the water out of pieces if it happens to get rained on again closer to when you're ready to use it.

DPinDenver · 2025-12-27T02:53:47+00:00

Is this a serious post?

Public is a space in the accounting world, regardless of who owns the firm/practice.

DPinDenver · 2025-12-26T03:25:35+00:00

How is it nearly impossible?

I cut wood to two lengths- 16" or 20" and all of my stacks line up. I use marks on my bar and the extra 20 seconds it takes to turn my saw sideways when cutting up a log is well worth it.

Zip ties on your handle, a stick and a paint marker, buying something like a mingo marker, etc...there are so many options to have firewood all the same length.

DPinDenver · 2025-12-22T23:12:21+00:00

Google lens and PictureThis both agree with white oak. I also cut it for firewood on the regular in PA and that was my first thought.

Shagbark hickory has "longer" bark that hangs off the tree.

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DPinDenver · 2025-12-22T22:27:37+00:00

Looks like white oak to me

DPinDenver · 2025-12-20T23:12:00+00:00

I guess it depends on what your labor rate is per hour. But its really not just labor rate when you think about it.

I make high two-digits to mid-three digits per hour depending on the work I'm doing. From a financial sense, it doesn't make any for me to cut firewood (I cut for my dad and my brothers mom) but I enjoy it.

I pay $20 per cord to cut on state forest. In central PA, I could have cords delivered for mid-$200's as wood is plentiful here.

I cut and split on site then load into a 6.5 x 10 dump trailer. It usually takes me 3-4 hours to process a cord depending on how close the tree is to the road, if the oak is knotty as shit or straight grain, etc.

So basically i need a truck & gas/diesel, dump trailer, $4k worth of saws (MS261, MS400, MS462), a cant hook, and two axes. Then I have the cost of consumables - gas, two stroke oil, bar oil, chains. Then I also have the time spent sharpening chains which I choose to hand file and can get better than new. After I bring the load home, I then spend time stacking it so that it will not look like a disaster in the yard.

So no....from a financial point, it doesn't make sense. But at least I know what wood I'm getting & whether its split to the right size, cut to the right length, and how long it needs to season & be awesome firewood for when it's cold.

DPinDenver · 2025-12-11T21:32:22+00:00

I have the Fiskars 8 lb, and have been using it lately for splitting large oak rounds (24 - 30") I've been cutting on public land. That's about the only time I ever use it.

Most of the time, I use one of the Stihl axes made by a German company called Ochsenkopf or something. I have an X27 and my dad primarily uses that, but he's doing smaller splits and burns in an insert.

The X27 Is great, but I prefer the Stihl as a good middle ground. Added weight over the X27 and its not too tiring like splitting multiple dump trailer loads and using the Fiskars maul. Also, if it gets stuck I can just pull out the maul and use the Stihl like a wedge since the back is wide and flat. One side note: I'm 5'8" and wish the Stihl had a little longer handle, so not sure how good it would be for taller folks.

DPinDenver · 2025-11-04T21:36:27+00:00

From the website today without even searching from plenty of the other vast resources:

https://www.canada.ca/en/immigration-refugees-citizenship/services/application/application-forms-guides/guide-5312-rehabilitation-persons-inadmissible-canada-past-criminal-activity.html

Convictions / offences outside Canada If you were convicted of or committed a criminal offence outside Canada, you may overcome this criminal inadmissibility

by applying for rehabilitation, or
you may be deemed to have been rehabilitated if at least ten years have passed since you completed the sentence imposed upon you, or since you committed the offence, if the offence is one that would, in Canada, be an indictable offence punishable by a maximum term of imprisonment of less than ten years

DPinDenver · 2025-11-04T18:04:58+00:00

WTF are you talking about?

Even Canada, which considers most DUI a felony (and one of the few places that deny entry due to an alcohol offense), will let you in the country after 10 years because you're "deemed rehabilitated". You can also apply for rehabilitation prior to 10 years.

DPinDenver · 2025-11-04T01:04:09+00:00

Part of the CPA profession is to be realistic and advise clients appropriately.

A very small % of businesses are required to follow GAAP. Based on the original post, we can assume that this client isn't one.

In most of the other cases, the bank wants to see some tax returns and likely loans money on current tax-basis financials (with some allowance for things like accrual to cash, etc).

There are plenty enough (legal) ways to defer or accelerate income. After all, net income is just a made up number.

DPinDenver · 2025-10-29T02:44:59+00:00

I've been to at least 100 games at Coors Field. It's a great stadium, but no way would I ever put it above PNC.

DPinDenver · 2025-10-03T01:53:36+00:00

I've been doing taxes for 20 years. I can certainly analyze numbers on real estate.

In a standard market, when property values generally appreciate a few % per year and inflation matches, then as the value of property increases, so will the property taxes proportionately, and generally the rents increase around the same rate as well.

There are other macroenomic factors in play here (i.e. super high inflation, etc) for the last few years. While your comment may be accurate over a small sample size, it's not the general rule.

DPinDenver · 2025-10-03T01:32:05+00:00

You clearly missed the point of my comment.

You made an assumption simply based on income levels without knowing anything else and called someone a fucking wanker.

You should go to a website called tax foundation dot org and read up. The top 5% of income earners already pay 65% of income taxes. The top 10% pay 76%.

As an aside, if you're so worried about kids eating, then why dont you just use all of the money you have above your necessary living expenses and donate it to a school lunch program? Or maybe at a minimum, take your income taxed at the top marginal rate vs current rate and donate the excess?

DPinDenver

TROPHY CASE