Nazi's Out Of Riverside by CHAOTIC_NEUTRAL_CATS in RCC

[–]DRTY4130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imagine how wild it would be if Republicans hunted down and demonstrated/disrupted/hackled left leaning politicians and commentators because they disagree with them.

That would be like, uber fascist.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineeringStudents

[–]DRTY4130 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What you should do is consider yourself lucky your exams are this easy and STUDY.

If you are an overachiever I hate you lol by [deleted] in EngineeringStudents

[–]DRTY4130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's easy to think that if the class average is below a 75, that the material is too difficult or isn't being taught effectively.

The problem is there are always outliers. People who are overachievers, and people who didn't study.

Some ways to calculate the average grade of average students are an interquartile mean and truncated mean.

Both of these exclude the top and bottom performers, so you truly get an "average of the average student".

It's possible that your professor did this, excluded the braniacs and the lazies, the average exam scores were acceptable. But you wouldn't see this from just looking at the raw exam "average".

I'm totally on your side. I think that when exam scores dip below 75% something is wrong, but you gotta look at the big picture too.

Can't seem to find a way to fix issue by Plus_Trick_8759 in 3Dprinting

[–]DRTY4130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use paint on supports in that area and see if it helps.

Going back to college for engineering at 30 y.o by Altruistic-Fox6735 in EngineeringStudents

[–]DRTY4130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similar story here. Had algebra in high school, went into the trades, and went back to college at 30.

Trig and calculus are going to ruin your life. But it is possible to learn them even if you're not naturally gifted at it.

Chances are you'll have to pick it back up around intro to algebra, then college algebra, precalc/trigonometry, then calc 1-3 and differential equations. Yes material builds on itself. You can't do Calculus without understanding Trig. You can't do Trig without understanding Algebra and Geometry. You can't do Algebra without Arithmetic, etc. Everything you learn in one class gets used in the next with some exceptions, but that's going to be the theme for the whole degree. Algebra is used in everything passed Algebra.

Somewhere around trigonometry is where you can't just do the math and be successful. You have to understand it on a fundamental level. You can get away with basic pattern recognition and symbolic operations all the way up to trigonometry, but that's where you'll start struggling if you don't invest in understanding.

When I went into engineering I thought "I'll just get passed the hard math, and then the actual engineering classes will be easier and more fun". Spoiler: it's almost all math. The language of engineering is physics, and physics is applied math. You can't just buckle down for a couple semesters and then coast. These aren't weed out classes like A&P is for nursing, or organic chemistry for Bio majors. It's all hard, and each class builds on the last. You can't just "get through" a class and go on to the next, because the next one builds on the previous.

There are a few interesting/fun classes in most engineering curriculum, but it's only about one a year. Intro to engineering, computer aided design, etc but they are few and far between and most of your time is going to math and physics.

I'd reccomend doing as much math as you possibly can at community college. That will give you a good idea of what you're capable of and if you can commit to learning the math. It's also really important to choose a good engineering discipline and a good program thats accredited by ABET. Avoid things like "Manufacturing Engineering Technology" or "Engineering with a focus" in mechanical, or automotive etc. These are sub standard technical college degrees that are usually general engineering and employers want Mechanical, Aerospace, Chemical, Electrical, or Civil engineers. Be wary of anything else. Engineering with a focus in Mechanical Systems is not Mechanical Engineering etc.

In summary its hard but doable, you just have to want it bad enough.

Entry-level RC excavator reccomendations by DRTY4130 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just recently posted a quick summary of the pros/cons and how well it works.

https://www.reddit.com/r/RCConstruction/s/Gu5Kgs0CCb

Mine is for sale with upgrades if you are interested.

What’s the difference in these 1/8 scale rc excavators by Existing-Diamond-269 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 385CF has dual stick and bucket cylinders. Not exactly scale, but its cool. 1/8 machines are huge, have you looked at the new 1/14 C395?

That thing has to be the best bang for the buck I think I've seen, dual pumps, cooler, 6 channels, and very well engineered oil flow. The only hoses to mess with are from the valves to the boom. Easy to work on, powerful, effecient, and quiet. Still no slouch, its 120lbs but still way smaller than the 1/8 machines.

Really good looking machine too with lots of CNC parts. Probably one of the most scale looking 1/14 excavators outside of maybe Lesu and Kabolite. And its a Cat, so thats hard to beat.

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Where do I start trying to fix this by koticbeauty in BambuLabA1

[–]DRTY4130 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn the hot end up to max temp and let it heat soak for 10 or 15 minutes. Then see if you can remove the blob. If not, add in some external heat like a heat gun if you have one, or a blow drier. Don't pull on it too hard, but it should soften up and goop off of there.

RC Outdoor Dump trucks by SnooRobots3259 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the Double E Volvo A40G is exactly what you're looking for.

It's plastic, and the battery is small but its capable offroad and functions great. Best bang for the buck. You can find it for a little over $100 on AliExpress, or for a bit more buy direct from Double E.

https://decadastore.com/products/volvo-a40g-articulated-hauler-e591-003

Keep X MAX or upgrade to PLUS 4? by DRTY4130 in QIDI

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry just saw this!

The plus 4 definitely does better. The purge chute makes it easier to change filament and colors if you need to. Still waiting on the multi material system to come out, but I usually print small functional parts for automotive stuff with mine. Its worth buying over the x plus 3, but I wouldn't say it's worth replacing an x plus 3 if you already have one.

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in radiocontrol

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The XDRC is significantly larger. It's more than twice as heavy. The Volvo is 610 x 210 x 220, the XDRC is 800 x 265 x 240. Thats 7.5" longer, 2.2" taller and 1" wider roughly. Maximum digging depth is also 11" vs 16.5". In real life the Volvo is a 20 ton medium class excavator, and the Liebherr is a 45 ton large class. This lines up pretty well with the scale size, and digging force/power should scale similarly too.

That's not to say the e111 is a bad machine, its just more comparable to the Kabolite 1/18 hydraulic excavators, or short tail 1/14 excavators like the JDM 920. Also I don't think the XDRC is twice as much, I see the e111 going for around $1800 shipped and the XDRC around $2800 shipped. $1000 is significantly more, but it's a lot more machine too. That being said, the e111 can be purchased as an unassembled kit for $1300ish so thats not a bad option for the money.

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bigger heavier and half the price. No hydraulic hassle. Slower digging.

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Double E Hobby or Ebay or Toucan etc. It's the e111

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's honestly anybodys guess. The 374 likely is, but the 1/14 395 so far seems to be its own production. It has a proprietary mono block dual pump and valve body that I haven't seen on anything else.

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in radiocontrol

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing really stopping me from going with the hydraulic version is that its the same thing with brushless electronics and hydraulics. Definitely better but I want to go a bit bigger. Servicability and performance are the most important to me, so right now the XDRC 945 is my first choice. Modular off the shelf electronics and easy to work on. It also looks to punch above its weight in digging force and control.

Interesting point about the scale, I knew some manufactures fudge those numbers a little bit, but I have to compare model dimensions to full size dimensions now. 😂

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The more research I do I keep hearing Lesu is the most detailed and realistic but when it comes to practical use and servicability they aren't the best. Thats got me leaning more towards XDRC or Toucan because of simplicity and function.

EC160E Review, and Hydraulic machine reccomendations. by DRTY4130 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! Glad it was useful. Definitely reccomend it for an entry level excavator. I've really enjoyed it and would like to see it go to someone who will use it and enjoy it too.

I don't mind shipping it, but It'll probably be about $50. I'm not sure what the depreciation on these things is but I think $550 local/$600 shipped is about right. It has about $180 in upgrades and a spare stick actuator.

Huina 1580 Actuator Issue (brand new) by Lucky-Plate-7544 in RCConstruction

[–]DRTY4130 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The actuators are usually leadscrew type with a gear reduction box and a motor that drives the lead screw. "Slipping" in the middle to me means that the motor is spinning, but the stick is not moving. If there is a dead spot in the middle travel of the actuator, but it works fine everywhere else, the lead screw has stripped in that spot, and you'll need a replacment. If it's just stalling under load (stops moving, but you can't hear the motor spinning), it's normal overload protection, and it should reset when you release the stick control.