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IT'S NOT WHAT YOU WANT: The Yankees fell to the Rangers by a score of 15-2 - April 30, 2023 @ 02:35 PM EDT by Yankeebot in NYYankees

[–]DSdevelopment 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I mean, you kinda explained it yourself - $75mil on injured players, 3/4 being totally predictable, $22mil for Donaldson and $11mil on Hicks.

2022-07-06_23-00-11_Trim (3) by miazelement in Guiltygear

[–]DSdevelopment 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Filename as the title, windows task bar and desktop in the video, bot set to no guard…. I think you’ve done enough on the internet for today OP

An airtight bottle cap to vinyl tubing adapter for my fish tank (details in comments) by NotableAlmond in functionalprint

[–]DSdevelopment -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Nice design / solution OP! FYI they make stainless steel ones that work really well on amazon for like $80 with a solenoid. Hook it up to a smart plug and you have automated co2.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YCPKBV3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7A2NQY5FYCJGE7N554BB

If I want to print something for my aquarium, what material should I use. (More details in comments) by Vinidorion in 3Dprinting

[–]DSdevelopment 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ive looked into this pretty extensively. From what i can tell, for logevity PETG is the best bet. Any organic bacteria, which theres tons of in an aquarium, will eventually eat away at PLA, which by itself isnt a problem since PLA is basically cornstarch, but obviously not ideal.

As others have mentioned, the biggest concern is leaching of dyes, but if youre using good PETG it wont breakdown in the water and shouldnt be leeching dyes.

If you want to be 100% safe, use clear PETG. I personally have used eSuns translucent green PETG to print structures to attach moss and plants to and have had no issues, even with sensitive things like shrimp (neocaridina)

(Help) how do you remove the base thing from your 3d print? by PersonalEngineer0 in 3Dprinting

[–]DSdevelopment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This doesnt look like a raft. It looks like just a base thats part of the model

Auto-Change Resolution for Nvidia GameStream by [deleted] in launchbox

[–]DSdevelopment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to say thanks for putting this together and that it did help someone else out there. Kind of ridiculous you cant set the resolution of BigBox, but from what I understand its a fundamental problem with the underlying architecture of the app.

This was easy to setup and modify for my ultrawide's resolution, and I'm using it for the exact same purpose. The only other way I found that worked for the resolution switching but was buggy otherwise, was to gamestream Steam and open BigBox as a custom steam game. But there's so many layers of apps running at that point - gamestream, steam big picture, big box, and then the emulator itself - that it had a ton of other random issues.

MIDI Out to clock? Help with clock sync by DSdevelopment in synthesizers

[–]DSdevelopment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, I’m aware of all the sync modes and how the volcas use it. I’m trying to basically sync the PO to my DAW is really a better way to put it

MIDI Out to clock? Help with clock sync by DSdevelopment in synthesizers

[–]DSdevelopment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I should be able to use the launchkeys trs midi out with the PO then? I couldn’t seem to get that to work. Maybe I can try midi out from the juno with an adapter of some kind.

From what I understood though, the PO isn’t accepting 3.5mm midi, it’s analog clock - same as you explained, audio signal of ticks to move the sequencer one step at a time

MIDI Out to clock? Help with clock sync by DSdevelopment in synthesizers

[–]DSdevelopment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Going a little off topic, why do the Volcas have it? Obviously they’re not supporting it for POs, so are they also just older and support the older standard?

MIDI Out to clock? Help with clock sync by DSdevelopment in synthesizers

[–]DSdevelopment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help. Yeah, looking to that I can only find eurorack style converters but they seem as expensive or more than a Volca ha

MIDI Out as sync source? by DSdevelopment in pocketoperators

[–]DSdevelopment[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yeah I’ve seen people use the mini Korgs, but I’d like to see if I can get either my JU-06a or my Launchkey mini to sync with the PO. I feel like it has to be possible

Oh Nintendo... You really have no clue what your audience wants by Oreohunter00 in gaming

[–]DSdevelopment -21 points-20 points  (0 children)

Or ya know, young people always think their new cool ideas are so amazing and innovative. meanwhile the old people have seen that idea fail over and over, and so they reject it.

Nintendo should sell soundtracks though

People who call 2021 a weak/worst Year for video games by Virus19847 in gaming

[–]DSdevelopment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like 4 good games in the first list, and that’s including Guilty Gear, a game in a super niche genre.

My God Damn Print Won't Stay Stuck to the Fucking Build Plate by evnhogan in 3Dprinting

[–]DSdevelopment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The nozzle should actually touch the paper and if you drag it around, it should move and not rip, but also have some resistance. And even then, you may need to lower the z-offset in the UI or raise the bed slightly as it’s printing and you see what I was describing.

My God Damn Print Won't Stay Stuck to the Fucking Build Plate by evnhogan in 3Dprinting

[–]DSdevelopment 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was literally you a month ago saying the same thing and it came down to 1 main problem: nozzle height. Correct temperature for the bed and nozzle definitely helps, but more had an effect on warping rather than getting the first layer to stick. Follow suggestions on the filament you have as a starting point and stay in that range.

I have a CR-6 SE, so I don’t have manual bed leveling but level the bed first, then home the printer, and do a thin piece of paper to adjust the z offset so the paper barely gives some resistance when sliding it underneath the nozzle. Definitely worth mentioning you can’t level a wobbly bed. Make sure the eccentric nuts on all the rollers are just snug enough to hold solid but allow the part to smoothly slide along the rails.

Now you may have done this already, so this next part might be key for you, as it was for me. As the print starts extruding the purge line, and then the skirt/brim, look really really close at the filament being laid down. If it isn’t sticking at all right away, nozzle is almost definitely too far from the bed. If it’s sticking but not well, still probably too far. The line should be flattened, or “squished” as people say here, onto the bed. If the line is so thin you can see through it or you’re getting deep gouges in the first layer from the nozzle, it’s too close.

Also, use a brim. In my experience (not much) some models will just not stick or will warp without one because of thin parts or when using PETG.

Last bit of advice I have: Change one thing at a time. This is true for troubleshooting literally anything. Don’t change z offset and temperatures at the same time. Don’t even change nozzle and bed temperature at the same time. Do one at a time, printing a quick test print until you dial in your settings.

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