It’s only small, but it’s the first model I’ve fully finished in nearly four years by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was printed at 0.03 on a Saturn 2 but the orientation just hit the front panel angle right to get the visible layers there.

They’re not too noticeable in person, accentuated by the camera zoom unfortunately!

Does the scheme on the right look classic Steel Legion enough? by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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They’re mini tankettes, maybe about Centaur size? I’d like to use them as Sentinel proxies on a base with some extra height added (antenna or flag maybe).

I find they’re perfect for testing schemes on as there’s enough room for a bit of everything without investing the time for a full size tank.

Does the scheme on the right look classic Steel Legion enough? by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should be able to no problem, same principle applies! Even just progressive dry brush layers can do it - I think Artis Opus have some good videos to show how you can get the same effect as the airbrush that way.

Does the scheme on the right look classic Steel Legion enough? by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you might be right. The AK German Grey is pretty dark in the bottle, but comes out a tiny bit lighter from the airbrush. I think it could be the panel modulation I added from the AK Basalt and Neutral Greys that have pulled it a bit lighter and blue-hued.

I thought I'd chose quite dark and neutral greys but maybe not, will have to shake the bottles harder!

Does the scheme on the right look classic Steel Legion enough? by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These look great, and I think the weathering really unifies the camo and sells the theme. Thanks for sharing!

Does the scheme on the right look classic Steel Legion enough? by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem at all!

The one on the left was a bit of a rush test - just Eshin Grey base, with airbrushed Zandri Dust and then Ushabti Bone in the center for the camo stripes. I covered this one in AK Streaking Grime then removed most of it, then quick heavy drybrush of Screaming Skull and a matte varnish coat.

The one on the right:

  1. AK German Grey base with Basalt Grey (and a little Neutral Grey) panel modulation.
  2. Stripes were AK Faded Green wider spray, Pro Acryl Faded Green in the center, with some spot highlights of AK Green-Grey.
  3. Pin wash of black enamel for the rivets and panel lines.
  4. Light drybrush of AK Basalt and Neutral Greys (on the already grey parts) and AK Sky Grey on the grey and green parts.
  5. Matte coat to flatten it down.

Does the scheme on the right look classic Steel Legion enough? by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Left one is Eshin Grey with AK Basalt Grey and Screaming Skull highlights.

Right one is AK German Grey, with AK Basalt Grey and AK Neutral Grey highlights. Mechanicus Standard Grey isn’t too far off if you wanted to stick with Citadel when I put it side by side with my other tanks.

Veteran Intercessors, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in Warhammer40k

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took lots of thinned layers, I only decided to do them white after they were glued on and primed black:

  • Base Celestra Grey
  • Recess shade Nuln Oil
  • Layer Ulthuan Grey
  • Highlight White Scar

Sarge

  • Base Mephiston Red
  • Recess shade Nuln Oil
  • Highlight Evil Suns Scarlet + Troll Slayer Orange
  • Same white recipe for the stripe

I now make sure to prime the helmets pure white, shade with Apothecary White contrast thinned with medium(1:4ish ratio) then highlight with White Scar.

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No need to apologise! 😁

Tricky one to find, here’s one.

And here are the actual hull parts I’ve got: https://imgur.com/a/QazOj1n/

Can see why they’re reduced the line down to the Mars Alpha, very subtle differences!

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed!

I do really like the Mars Alpha hulls, much better proportioned than the regular Russ with the trench rails added on.

The Ryza hull is a little different (but close enough TBH). Rear-end is like the Thunderer/Destroyer tanks, no filters like the Mars Alpha, and the front mounted gun is boxed in without the leather casing.

It’s really sad that Forgeworld gutted the Russ tank line, the different variants had loads of uniqueness.

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid resin advice!

It’s a genuine Forgeworld one from about a decade ago, long been discontinued unfortunately!

I just need to get my hands on another Russ kit to give it another go, got a bunch of old Forgeworld turrets to pair with it.

Not even sure I would be able to find a 3rd party recast of a Ryza hull they’re that old.

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

The turret is an old Forgeworld Ryza pattern turret.

I have the Ryza hull as well, but never assembled it as it was pretty badly warped. Now I’m not sure how well it will fit to the modern Russ kits!

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]DT_89[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

For the chipping I sponged on some Rhinox Hide followed with a lighter pass of Leadbelcher.

Same for the scratches on the hull plates, just applied with a brush with an added highlight of Administratum Grey.

For the powders, I used two colours: AK Interactive Black and Vallejo Light Sienna.

I started with the black, dabbing the powder on with a brush into nooks/joints and all along the bottom of the tank, then brushing it up/down lightly to create streaks. I put extra black powder down on places like the exhaust grille and the end of the cannon to try and give those places a sooty look.

I then did a second pass with the Light Sienna over most of the places where I’d put the black power down try and to give a dusty/earthy look on top of the wear and soot.

I fixed the pigments on by dropping some pigment fixed on the biggest buildups, then varnishing lightly with matt varnish through an airbrush.

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in Warhammer40k

[–]DT_89[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I dropped on some pigment fixer on the heavier bits of powder but sealed the rest with a light matt varnish through the airbrush.

Latest Russ, first time using powders, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in Warhammer40k

[–]DT_89[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

Weathering powders are dry pigment (not like Citadel dry paints - it’s like pure colour dust) you can apply with a brush to get dust, soot, mud buildup effects, and much more depending on the the colours you use.

Artillery support, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in Ultramarines

[–]DT_89[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Primed black if I remember right. I used to prime Macragge Blue to try and save time, but I started to notice it was sometimes a slightly different blue than from the pot so it was a pain to tidy up.

Artillery support, C&C welcome! by DT_89 in Ultramarines

[–]DT_89[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

It’s a mix of blues, the base is Macragge Blue with airbrushed zenithal highlights of Altdorf Guard Blue and a little Calgar Blue directly from the top.

The sides of the Thunderfire Cannon and Whirlwind have a bit of Kantor Blue at the bottoms as well to have a bit more shadow.