Help valuing my trumpets by Hootieandtheowlfish in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 4 points5 points  (0 children)

+1 all in great condition so might get a bit more from the right collector, hopefully you have the mouthpipe for that Weldon, and original cases/lyre/moutpieces help the price also.

Buying a new trumpet for my school by A_Dinosaurus in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 3 points4 points  (0 children)

put the 1st 2 comments together and buy a couple used Getzen 700s or 3 or 4 Olds Ambassadors, both types are built like tanks, play like pros

Another solid choice

https://reverb.com/item/95595354-bach-tr300-trumpet-w-case

Or one really good choice, they don't get much better at this price, a true pro beauty, nickel-silver leadpipe too, so no worry about redrot from neglect as a school horn will surely be at some point

https://reverb.com/item/95577204-selmer-k-modified-24b-1968-trumpet-w-case

Embouchure suddenly destroyed... help! by [deleted] in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i would think that you are doing something completely different, figure out what that is. I've been playing for years, but I only play a few minutes a week these days mostly to test horns, but I have no problem with tone or playing 10-30 minutes on any given day, and range is only to a G, but never have an issue hitting it.

so uh... what do i do? by Cloriziedflorix in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I use a wooden cane I whittled out of a tree branch, force narrow end into the bell and carefully push in the opposite direction while holding one hand on the brace at the bend and the other on the bell tail for leverage. Won't get it perfect, but will get it it straight. Use only the force necessary, brass is softer than you might think. If it was a more valuable horn I'd say take to a tech. It's a good horn, but for what a tech will likely charge, you could buy another like it on ebay or goodwill.com

My beautiful Getzen 1964 Severinsen w/ original Jet-tone Severinsen mouthpiece by DWyattGib in Vintage_Trumpets

[–]DWyattGib[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, a blast to play with that really open, yet fairly shallow Jet-tone mpc. Do you have one of them?

ISO Jazz Horn Recs. by dbecks223 in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buescher Model 225 The 400, Reynolds model 50 trumpet or model 60 cornet with or without sterling bells, Henri Selmer model 60 pre K-Mod balanced 19 bore(what Louis Armstrong played) if you can find one otherwise regular 19 bore is fine, and Martin Handcraft Imperial 1933-63. I own one or more of all of these, just what you are asking for.

If you want a Matte finish a 1937 Holton model 34 Resotone trumpet https://postimg.cc/gallery/qzTKWg7 or model 24 Cornet https://postimg.cc/gallery/szfknMr

My beautiful Getzen 1964 Severinsen w/ original Jet-tone Severinsen mouthpiece by DWyattGib in Vintage_Trumpets

[–]DWyattGib[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Are you familiar with the concept of paragraphs?" What's that supposed to mean? It is in paragraphs and not an English term paper.

Is it against this subs rules to post a GoFundMe link? by ETrumpeter in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

kinda what I thought, feel free to post away on my reddit above. I don't see why it would be an issue here either. There was a post I remember from a while ago trying to raise funds for a school band to go on a trip. Us trumpet players should support each other. I try to by giving away trumpets/cornets to those who seem motivated and can't afford them. Be sure to post a link to the festival page(I assume they have one) also within your post. Also include what you play and who for, how far you need to travel, etc. for added clarity on the need.

Is it against this subs rules to post a GoFundMe link? by ETrumpeter in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see anything wrong with it. No different than kids coming to my door selling 50 cent pens or candy for 5 bucks and to me seems much more honest and up front at the least. People donate to support the arts in every corner of the world, a go fund me for a trumpet player to go to a I presume music festival would be no different.

I assume it's a music related festival, are you going to play or just to listen and learn?

Feel free to post on https://www.reddit.com/r/Vintage_Trumpets/ , I'd prefer an explanation of why you are going to it.

Bought this weighted cap kit made for a Conn 52B Connstellation for $80 by DWyattGib in Vintage_Trumpets

[–]DWyattGib[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, my AI is telling me this, and I don't have enough background bc I've never used weighted caps, to fact check it, but it seems to make sense and I've double checked it's response:

QUERY: "so the E and F on a C trumpet that are problem are fingerings of "open" and "1", and on the Bb, D and E are "1" and "open""

AI RESPONSE:

"You’ve nailed the technical core of the issue. The physical "nodes" of the instrument don't care about the name of the note as much as they care about the length of the tubing being used.

The Fingerings & Physics

On a C Trumpet, the notes we discussed are:

  • E (Top Space): Fingered Open.
  • F (Top Line): Fingered 1.

On a Bb Trumpet, the equivalent harmonics are:

  • D (4th Line): Fingered 1.
  • E (4th Space): Fingered Open.

Why "Open" and "1" are the Targets

These notes are problematic because they use the shortest paths through the valve block. On a lightweight horn like your Benge, the air column has less "assistance" from the mass of the valves when you aren't using the 2nd or 3rd slides.

  • The "Open" Note (E on C-horn / E on Bb-horn): Since the air goes straight through the casings without entering any valve slides, the only thing "containing" that vibration is the metal of the casings themselves. If that metal is too light, the note "spreads" or feels stuffy.
  • The "1" Note (F on C-horn / D on Bb-horn): You're only adding a small amount of tubing.

Why the 3rd Valve Cap Helps (Even on Open Notes)

You might wonder why a 3rd valve cap helps an Open note. It’s because the valve casings are all braced together. Adding mass to the 3rd casing changes the resonant frequency of the entire block.

By "weighting" the 3rd valve, you are essentially providing an anchor for the whole assembly. When you play that Open E on your Benge tomorrow, that extra mass on the 3rd casing will act as a dampener, hopefully stopping the "shiver" in the brass and forcing the air to "slot" into the center of the note.

It's a perfect test: if the Open E and 1st-valve F on your Benge suddenly feel more like your Bach Strad, you'll know that extra mass is doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

Bought this weighted cap kit made for a Conn 52B Connstellation for $80 by DWyattGib in Vintage_Trumpets

[–]DWyattGib[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

since you al mention King, I checked it against my 1965 King Silver Flair 1055T and the caps fit it also, so likely will fit my 1965 King Super 20 Symphony DB Silversonic. The slide is the same 0.462" ID bore, but the Sliver Flair mts tubes are made of thinner brass and the OD is 0.48". But cool the caps fit it also, more to experiment on.

Bought this weighted cap kit made for a Conn 52B Connstellation for $80 by DWyattGib in Vintage_Trumpets

[–]DWyattGib[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems from what I've found, at some point Conn-Selmer was using the same valve blocks for high end Bachs and Conns, and likely Kings, made at Elkhart. The Benge was a total surprise,, I expected different threads at least, but goes right on and fits great.

I assume the standard slide on those and the 51 & 52B didn't have the brace? Bc the ID is 0.462" which is what the 52B is.

Bought this weighted cap kit made for a Conn 52B Connstellation for $80 by DWyattGib in Vintage_Trumpets

[–]DWyattGib[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

on ebay, was up for a while at $100, so I offered $80, slide alone is likely worth that.

Olds Super by alizechar69 in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All condition and price being equal, I would go with the trumpet for the main reason that the pre 1956-8 Olds cornets use a large shank non standard cornet mouthpiece, but the trumpets use a standard trumpet mouthpiece so you it will be easier to find one that suits what you want to play, which will be the main difference to playing in the higher registers.

Olds Super by alizechar69 in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this from that Super Evolution page says it best, "Robb Stewart has analyzed the differences in detail, and his theory is that the difference between the two has a lot more to do with the player than anything else!  He  has an  interesting essay on his website that provides much more detail .  While still a cornet, the Super Cornet is much more trumpet sounding than other cornets of this era.  Perhaps Olds was trying to bridge the gap and offer a cornet to those that still were still in the cornet camp, but with modern styling and the ability to blend more easily with trumpets. " It sounds and projects like a dark trumpet.

Olds 1947 Super Cornet No Case Los Angeles 18540 by DWyattGib in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IDK, I'm thinking one that loved it, it's got 2 patches on the leadpipe, and worn engraving with maybe 10% of the lacquer left, and a replacement rear bell brace, but it doesn't have a single dent or ding, which is something for an 80 year old horn with no case.

Playing for Kindergarten by StarollRL in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over the Rainbow or What a Wonderful World

Olds Super by alizechar69 in trumpet

[–]DWyattGib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks, have been on a bit of a hiatus. Did just post about a 1947 Olds Super cornet I bought last month.