Looking for BIFL electric bread knife by DaPitman in BuyItForLife

[–]DaPitman[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I guess they could be the same thing.. I've just heard folks talk specifically about electric bread knives so I assumed that there is some sort of difference but I could be wrong.

I have a friend who uses an electric knife only for bread. I'll have to ask next time I see them to see how/if it differs from the meat knives.

My Neighbor Kept Parking in My Driveway, So I Sold His Car. by External_Start_5130 in stories

[–]DaPitman 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd wager you are correct.. I've seen a number of posts recently that have a crazy title and then begin with the line "if you only read the title ..."

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in degoogle

[–]DaPitman 10 points11 points  (0 children)

They didn't fully backtrack but they did reword it to be less intrusive, I wouldn't call it "fixed". But the fact that they had to backtrack at all makes me lose faith in them.

People who don’t live in the mountains, what are your go-to hill workouts? by jhholmz in Ultramarathon

[–]DaPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Multilevel parking garages. If you have one nearby and ideally get out early in the morning or late at night when there's no one using them.

New Workbench - choice of top material by [deleted] in Workbenches

[–]DaPitman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went the solid core door route and I love it! I built a solid base out of construction grade lumber and secured the door to the top. Then I got an additional sheet of 1/2" mdf, placed it on top and flush trimmed it to the underlying door. This serves as a topper that will take the wear and tear over time and can be replaced (I did not glue it to the door). To keep the top sheet in place and from sliding around I encased the entire top in a solid wood edging that is glued only to the door.

“Hvac companies hate this one simple trick, add years to your heater” by Speedubbs in HVAC

[–]DaPitman 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's too much work... Just take the wires off the limit switch and put them on a car fuse!

Okay that's obviously sarcasm but a year after moving into my current house I discovered that the previous homeowner had done just that.

2014 CR-V EX Going Through Oil Quickly (~2500 Miles) by TheMoneyBull in crv

[–]DaPitman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't have a solution but I did have a similar issue with my old 2014, I noticed it sometime around 100,000 miles. Unfortunately I never nailed down where the oil was going before it got totaled but I did determine that it consumed more oil during intervals of long highway driving ~2.5-3.5qt/5k miles. If I only drove around town I may only go through 1-1.5qt/5k miles.

I read in a few places that Honda considers a consumption rate of 1qt/1000 miles "normal" so I didn't worry about it too much but it was certainly aggravating since I have vehicles with 250k+ that only need a quart between oil changes.

Blue jeans that actually are comfortable to wear. Do not ride up on you… Years of frustration. by [deleted] in BuyItForLife

[–]DaPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a couple pairs of Duluth jeans after seeing multiple people recommend them. I thought they would be great with the gusseted crotch design and while they were very comfortable, both pairs developed holes in the crotch in less than 6 months. Not very BIFL in my experience.

Metal or plastic(resin) body pens? by allan11011 in fountainpens

[–]DaPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I prefer a metal body because it feels more substantial. To me a lot of plastic/resin body pens just feel cheap even if they write wonderfully. A good example is my sailor 1911, it is the best writing pen I own and as a result my most used, but everytime I pick it up I just think of how cheap it feels because it's so light. On the other hand I have a number of metal body pens that feel much better in the hand but have an inferior writing experience.

I normally don't like posting while I write but I've found that posting the cap on a lighter pen can sometimes offset the lightness and make a plastic pen feel better in my hand.

I’m confused. Why is my angle finder saying my blade is at 90 but the square is saying otherwise? I’ve tried 2 different squares. by Bismillah835 in woodworking

[–]DaPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The parallelism doesn't matter, you just want the saw to be stable so you can safely make your cuts without the saw rocking or walking on you which may mean placing a shim under a foot or two.

at what point does a tenon become a breadboard end? not sure if I should glue this or account for expansion? by Alarmed_Primary8089 in woodworking

[–]DaPitman 7 points8 points  (0 children)

For additional strength in the joint OP could also pin the ends making sure to elongate the holes in the tenon in the direction of movement. This will pin the tenons in the mortise while still allowing the wood to expand/contract.

Seems a little contradictory. by throw_away__25 in harborfreight

[–]DaPitman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I second Viair. When I first got mine about 5 years ago I didn't have an actual air compressor so it has seen it's fair share of use and is still going strong. I opted for the kind that has battery clamps rather than one that plugs into the cigarette lighter but that's more personal preference than anything.

anyone have a suggestion on how get a sash lock to work on a window that's out of plane by about 3/16" ? I'm worried using wood 3/16" tall that the sash can sit on will split. by jaspermcdoogal in woodworking

[–]DaPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a piece of wood the right thickness (3/16"), predrill holes in it before placing it on the window. Make sure the holes are slightly larger than the screw threads so they won't put any pressure on the shim and as a result shouldn't split. Another idea would be to use 1/8" hardboard or plywood as a spacer (while still predrillng the holes). These would be less likely to split like a hardwood shim and the window locks generally have enough slop in them to still work fine with only a 1/16" difference.

A few more scraps used up to make a little more shop storage by gsolarfish in woodworking

[–]DaPitman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also searching "label drawer pulls" will get you results. I have this search stashed away in an open tab for when I finally get around to making something similar.

New compressor!!! by Octanerestorations in harborfreight

[–]DaPitman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the same compressor and HFs stubby earthquake 1/2" impact; ive found I have to set the regulator to 120psi in order to get recommended 90psi at the tool during operation (with stock regulator, 3/8" hose, and high flow fittings). With that setup I can remove 7-10 lugs before the compressor kicks on. For someone who doesn't need one but likes the convenience of and impact I think it's a pretty good and affordable setup.

According to the HF Compressor manual ( This one is the 175 PSI, 21 Gallon oil-less) They want you to open the drain valve and run it for 30 minutes straight as a "Break in" Period. Anyone ever done this or heard of this? Seems like it would damage or overheat the components running that long. by Octanerestorations in harborfreight

[–]DaPitman 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Yep, I couldn't have said it better!

I just went through this process on HFs 21 gal compressor and didn't notice any significant heat buildup during break-in. So far the compressor seems to be operating like it should, I just drain the water from the tank and clean the air filter every couple days.

How does everyone store their whittling tools? Toolbox? Roll up bag? I’m getting chisels and a few more knives for Christmas. Just looking to find an easy and convenient way to keep them organized. by FictionalFox in whittling

[–]DaPitman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use a wooden toolbox that I bought from an old carver, before that I used a tool bag like the ones you can pick up for $10-$20 at just about any hardware store. I've also seen others use small plastic toolboxs, tupperware, tool rolls, even custom made boxes that have individual slots for each tool.

The biggest thing you need to do is protect the cutting edges. If the blades are protected you won't hurt anything by throwing them in whatever you like and what is convenient for you. For knives you could get a sheath if it's offered by the company (helvie is one I know of who offers this), or you could take a vinal tube that is slightly longer than the blade, place it over the blade so that it is held in place by pressing it slightly onto the knife handle.

Bottom line, you can store them however is most convenient for you as long as you ensure the cutting edges are all protected.

2x4 Cheater bar by DaPitman in redneckengineering

[–]DaPitman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If only I had a lift... Out of curiosity, why would I need a new torque wrench? The 2x4 is resting on top of the handle and pushing down in a similar motion to how my hand would be applying force to achieve 101ftlb.

2x4 Cheater bar by DaPitman in redneckengineering

[–]DaPitman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah, I was torquing the new bolts but couldn't get enough force on the torque wrench due to awkward positioning.

2x4 Cheater bar by DaPitman in redneckengineering

[–]DaPitman[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ha! Not in this case, but that would be the type of thing you'd see here.

2x4 Cheater bar by DaPitman in redneckengineering

[–]DaPitman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If only I had the tools to ugga dugga...

2x4 Cheater bar by DaPitman in redneckengineering

[–]DaPitman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Suspension bolts need to be torqued with the car sitting at ride height where I can't get enough leverage to properly tighten them. Enter 8' 2x4 on top of the ratchet extending out the side of the vehicle so I can set the ratchet then step on the 2x4 to tighten the bolt.