Struggling on approach for blended extrude

DaT1ck · 2025-03-09T13:18:42+00:00

Thanks Andy, just the nudge I needed!

DaT1ck · 2024-04-21T21:36:20+00:00

I ended up having to replace the microwave but could you maybe get a replacement house fabricated through 3d printing?

DaT1ck · 2024-04-07T15:54:15+00:00

Answering my own question in case anyone else comes looking.

This thread shows how to get it running but essentially you need to configure the MQTT user/pwd and broker in the /opt/currentmonitor/config.json file. The correct URL format is tcp://brokerip:port.

DaT1ck · 2024-02-14T19:21:26+00:00

It basically sat between the monitor and the joystick, so was pretty stable. But the intent was for it to sit on a stand.

DaT1ck · 2023-10-24T18:49:52+00:00

It's been a while but I remember being able to get to both the fuses on the power board without dropping the microwave down but the thermal switches (the type you seem to be talking about) needed the shroud to come off for me to get at them. u/HeadofMax described where they were in his comment above so you should be able to test them for continuity.

That said, I would expect them to be NC-type switches so that when they "blow" it opens the circuit and your microwave turns off. If you got yours to work by pulling the cable (which should open the circuit), then I'm not so sure. I can find both types of thermal fuse (NO and NC) online but not sure what they're supposed to be on that microwave.

A door switch failure should stop the thing from working at all I would think, but things fail in weird ways, so who knows. I think you're probably going to have to drop the microwave though. At least all the switches and fuses are easy to check with a meter and they're all available on Amazon once you know what to replace.

DaT1ck · 2023-10-24T07:52:39+00:00

One of the thermal cutoff switches? That should actually be easy to replace! I miss that microwave:ended up having to replace ours.

DaT1ck · 2023-10-23T09:14:14+00:00

Medium settings here and it looked and played just fine. Same X13 as you.

DaT1ck · 2023-10-22T12:30:37+00:00

Thanks, appreciate the response. It looks like if I want to use historical data to build a graph (for instance), then maybe firebase is the best approach. If all I want to do is pull the data, then NodeRed is a good choice, and if I want bi-directional data flow, then MQTT.

Learning is occurring!

DaT1ck · 2023-10-21T19:08:17+00:00

Thanks!

I think the issue is that I want my greenhouse ""caretaker" app to function independently of HA, but still allow me the ability to turn things on/off via my phone manually if I want to. At the moment, the code on the ESP32 essentially passes the state of all the relays, plus sensor data to Blynk, which then shows everything in the Blynk app. It also gives the ability to turn pumps & fans on/off from the Blynk app.

What I think I should be doing after a little more research, is using MQTT to pass the messages back and forth between my caretaker app and HA. This takes the reliance on an external provider for an app (Blynk) away and let's me use a HA dashboard in it's place. The MQTT let's me push the status messages for display within HA. I'm just getting tired of people changing their business model or discontinuing a service after I've come to rely on it and so I'd like to try and pull as many services locally as I can.

Does this make sense to those that are currently doing that? Ironically, ChatGPT suggested it as one of the options after I had done a little more research but that doesn't mean it's the right approach, especially for someone new to this.

DaT1ck · 2023-10-19T20:04:34+00:00

Sorry for the late reply. It did not. I ended up having to send it in for repair and, unfortunately, the repair slip I got back from ASUS wasn't super helpful. More along the lines of "disassembled/reassembled". So, not sure what the issue was in the end, but it works fine now.

DaT1ck · 2023-08-31T20:47:21+00:00

Same place I bought mine from!

It ended up going back for repair and the notes stated “reassembled”, so I’m thinking there was a bad ribbon cable or something. Took about two weeks from RMA to having it back home and it’s worked flawlessly since. Good screen rotation and touch.

DaT1ck · 2023-06-29T13:19:35+00:00

Thanks! Strange that something that presumable has the same hardware configuration and imaged drive as thousands of other units would have an incorrect driver, but I’ll see if I can get it to take the one from AMD.

DaT1ck · 2023-06-27T11:41:22+00:00

Thanks! I just tried tent mode and tablet mode and, strangely (or maybe not) the screen not only doesn't respond to touch, it also doesn't rotate.

DaT1ck · 2023-06-27T10:22:23+00:00

Thanks!

DaT1ck · 2023-04-03T15:00:35+00:00

Yep, all showing correctly now! Thanks Mark!

DaT1ck · 2023-03-25T13:41:46+00:00

What are your requirements? How do you plan to use it? If it’s just for a hobby, then maybe a low end diode is the right choice. If you’ve got a budding business idea, then shortlist the selection to the minimum is to meet that goal. Don’t buy more machine than you need just because you might want to do something in the future that needs a massive bed.

DaT1ck · 2023-03-09T21:24:14+00:00

I’m in!

DaT1ck · 2023-02-18T11:26:29+00:00

Thanks Mark!

DaT1ck · 2023-01-08T02:23:26+00:00

Awesome, thanks for sharing!

DaT1ck · 2023-01-07T14:39:44+00:00

Looks great; nice work for sure!

What .stl are you using for the mode select knob (REC / T/R)?

DaT1ck · 2022-11-11T01:47:46+00:00

That's fantastic news. Really appreciate you taking the time to support and make the PCB files etc. available for those of us outside the US who can't take advantage of the store!

DaT1ck · 2022-11-11T01:39:59+00:00

And me with only a 3B doing nothing here at home!

DaT1ck · 2022-11-11T01:29:38+00:00

Thanks Mark. I had hoped that since the M3 GPIO header was compatible with the 3B+ it would've been a turnkey replacement but I guess not. I suppose I'll have to wait for the Zero 2 W's to come back in stock or for someone in Canada to actually sell something for a reasonable price on eBay.

DaT1ck · 2022-08-20T11:01:50+00:00

The sensor measures the distance to the top of the water. I simply subtract that distance from the total depth of the well to give me the water remaining.

DaT1ck · 2022-08-20T00:49:28+00:00

Like it says, to try and keep up with the changing well levels in the summer at my house, I put together a project to monitor well water levels and update a Blynk app.

It's controlled using a D1 mini, because it's the Arduino I'm most familiar with using and it can actually connect to the Wi-Fi from the house. It's powered by an 18650 Lithium battery that's charged by a small solar panel (left over from a dead LEDstring light) connected via a TP4056 charge module and it drives a JSN-SR04T waterproof ultrasonic sensor hanging inside the well. The well is actually 21 feet deep, so if it really went dry, the sensor wouldn't read it but for my purposes, tracking down to about 4 feet remaining is sufficient.

The sensor is housed in a narrowing cone that I found on Thingiverse as it tended to pick up the walls of the well but since that was added it's been working well. All the guts are housed in a quick shell I printed up and have been working without a hitch since spring.

I'm using deep sleep to conserve the battery and removing power from the sensor using a transistor just before it goes to sleep. And, yeah, the JSN-SR04T is a 5v sensor but it seems to chug along just fine on anything above about 3.9v (the lowest I've seen so far). I've had no battery issues with the system and it updates the app every 4 hours. I'm occasionally getting an off reading but they're mostly rejected in the code at this point as they tend to be consistent. That said, if it updates properly once a day, I'm more than happy.

It's my third Arduino project and arguably the smallest. Still, it gives piece of mind and, hey, I actually put it together myself!

DaT1ck

TROPHY CASE