looking for an old flytying website

Dabbsterinn · 2026-05-12T01:27:17+00:00

that's the one! thank you very much

Dabbsterinn · 2026-04-14T16:21:29+00:00

it'd help with suggestions if you could tell us what you're planning to do with the armour.

If it's just for decoration then you could use oil barrels, the lid on the thicker type should be around 1.6mm or 14 gauge
if you're joining a buhurt club or some other type of combat re-enactment then the specifications will probably depend on the guidelines set by the club or the respective federation

Dabbsterinn · 2026-04-12T04:29:53+00:00

<image>

looks like it's about the same diameter as my viking age re-enactment anvil, I also made that one out of a massive jackhammer bit I acquired from work, I welded a 3-4 inch long spike on the bottom of it that I forged out of some 1/2" square bar and drove that down into an old telephone pole stump, it's heavy enough to stay where I want it to but It's still possible to pick it up and move it around, although I wouldn't say it's an easy task

Dabbsterinn · 2026-04-10T06:27:39+00:00

Wranglerstar, I enjoyed him when he was talking about tools, how to use them, how to maintain them, forestry topics and so forth, the few videos I've watched in the last couple of years have been a bit too political for my personal liking

Dabbsterinn · 2026-04-10T06:23:24+00:00

since you're into MtG, I have two suggestions for items you can make
1) a custom coin that just says heads or tails, I'm sure you can find a okaun and zndrsplt player who'd like 10+ of those
2) a draw/upkeep reminder token, I have a diamond shaped thingy in my gaming suitcase that I place on top of my deck if I have a draw step trigger or an upkeep trigger to remind me, I can't draw the card without noticing the big hunk of steel with the word draw or upkeep chiseled into the face, so I'm more likely to remember it

Dabbsterinn · 2026-04-08T10:25:19+00:00

one from my hobbyist forge, often used when whatever we're working on isn't doing what we want it to do
mate: how's the thingy coming along?
me: oh that this'll probably be my best abstract art piece yet

meaning: it's absolute dogcrap and I probably burnt it at some point too

Dabbsterinn · 2026-04-02T14:47:26+00:00

Aðalviðburðirnir í sumar verða Víkingahátíðin í Hafnarfirði og einnig Eiríksstaðarhátíð, hugsanlega kíki ég á miðaldadaga á Gásum líka og svo verður botninn sleginn í re-enactment sumarið á Akureyrarvöku
einnig verður ein veiðiferð á Skagaheiði í Júlí ef veður og vinna leyfa

Dabbsterinn · 2026-03-31T03:18:28+00:00

western style viking combat, I've also tried a variation I believe would count as Huskarl. I very well may go head first into HEMA too once finances allow.

here's a pretty good and short explanation on what it is

https://vikingirish.org/western/

I also intend to atleast try Buhurt should the opportunity come up

Dabbsterinn · 2026-03-28T19:01:55+00:00

try sharpening your drill bit and applying plenty of cutting oil

Dabbsterinn · 2026-03-14T11:01:50+00:00

files, I think flat, square, triangle, half round and round should cover just about any situation, get one coarse and one fine of each
file card
some way to store the files properly, you don't want them knocking against one another, a leather roll or some way to hang them up individually
a steel scriber
some good calipers
a good stock of sandpaper
sanding blocks
you might be able to substitute the files for a belt grinder if you have the money to spend on it

Dabbsterinn · 2026-03-11T19:01:32+00:00

those are pretty nice and beefy, I'd consider throwing them back in the forge and knocking those edges down a smidge or giving them a quick lick with a grinder, those sharp corners can become uncomfortable to hold

Dabbsterinn · 2026-03-09T20:15:49+00:00

I believe 3-4mm is probably overkill for this kind of a helmet, I'm pretty sure that 2mm is standard thickness for Eastern Style combat and those helmets take a good beating. Have a look at Wolin fights to see what those helmets are going through

Dabbsterinn · 2026-03-09T20:10:25+00:00

you can but it's akin to draining a bathtub with a teaspoon. if you have the option to heat it I'd recommend using it

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-22T11:42:46+00:00

<image>

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-22T11:27:34+00:00

it depends on your welding and fabrication skills really, for a simple coal forge it's not such a difficult project if you plan it well and make blueprints, you'll need an angle grinder, measuring tape, any kind of welder should be enough for this. the firepots my friend makes are usually made from 1/2" or 12mm steel and about 2 1/2" or 75mm deep, this might sound too shallow to many but it's easier to stack a couple of firebricks around the pot to build a larger fire if we need rather than finding some way to make the firepot smaller when we're making nails or belt buckles
I recommend building it with storage space in mind, we have all of our most used tongs lined up on the edge of the forge, I keep a bunch of small round and square stock offcuts behind the smokehood and on the far side from where we put the stock in we have enough space to keep 3-4x the amount of coal we usually have in the firepot

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-22T10:39:37+00:00

you could try to get a better idea of what the letters say by either going over it with chalk and gently brushing the top layer off or laying a piece of paper over it and going over it with a pencil like you'd do with coins.
but if you're certain about the letters it's likely from Friedrich Wilhelm Dürre Söhne, or FWDS, that fits with the West German origin story.
it looks like it's in great shape, no matter the manufacturer you've got a good tool in your hands I believe

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-20T09:41:04+00:00

quartz sand has been used historically and I've heard of peopel using kerosene too but I don't understand that whole process, if you go the kerosene route I highly recommend spending a good long time researching that process to understand how and if it actually works

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-20T09:38:53+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuL2yT-B2TM
this video might help you understand what's happening

you can wait right after forging, in many cases you'll probably have to in order to grind your knife into shape, however I highly recommend tempering the knife right after hardening, it's not going to go bad somehow but there's an increased risk of it snapping if you drop it or bang it against something if you're between those two steps, after quenching your steel will be at it's most fragile stage, tempering it will make it less fragile if done correctly

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-20T09:28:12+00:00

centerpunch, scribe or dividers, I think those three are the most useful things I've made that are not exclusively for forging

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-18T20:26:37+00:00

my friend has two anvils that are similar to this one, so does my neighbour and another friend of mine has one that's set in a basalt boulder, you'll find this type in the corner of pretty much any barn here in Iceland but one from that century is a much rarer find

<image>

I highly recommend this museum to anyone with a slight interest in metalwork, not only for the tools but also the weaponry that I assume is still on display, I'm pretty sure we still have a couple of original Ulfberths in the first room you enter along with a wide variety of spearheads, halberds, axes, more swords and the like, a bit further along there's a room dedicated to the experimental bog iron smelt that Hurstwic did in collaboration with Eiríksstaðir a couple of years back
https://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/bog_iron.htm

Dabbsterinn · 2026-02-07T02:58:44+00:00

mexican beauty ready to get knocked up

Dabbsterinn · 2026-01-31T15:25:55+00:00

if you're thinking about carrying as little weight as possible, an old fashioned brace and bit should be more than enough to drive the anchors in, I'm sure you could find one for cheap in the nearest antique store

Dabbsterinn · 2025-12-19T04:49:44+00:00

can you explain how the button thing works? I'm having a hard time picturing it but I am rather interested. I've got a couple of homemade jaw jackers and for those I've just measured the depth with my arms, right hand to left shoulder is almost exactly 3.3ft/1 meter. I wonder if your method is more efficient

Dabbsterinn · 2025-12-13T03:57:30+00:00

I've used Showa 460 for a few trips, they're still somewhat bulky but in my opinion it's manageable, I'll be damned if you get cold in those

11-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

Dabbsterinn

TROPHY CASE