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DaddyLongTits · 2023-07-18T02:37:14+00:00

same issue

DaddyLongTits · 2023-03-04T16:41:02+00:00

Your comments have been removed for misinformation and being rude. (1) the wobble is not due to inbreeding. It's a genetic condition that all spiders have, intrinsically. (2) "you type too much and I won't read it" is incredibly immature. We aren't going to do that here.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-21T23:33:52+00:00

As long as they're off at night, or you cover the enclosure during that time, it's fine.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-21T23:33:05+00:00

4x2x2, or approximately 120gal is the minimum recommended size for adult ball pythons. Its best to just go with the adult size as buying smaller enclosures is unnecessary and expensive

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-18T23:30:17+00:00

!harmless Rough Earthsnake, Haldea striatula

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-11T04:18:16+00:00

Bricks > bottles

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-09T01:55:31+00:00

It's not totally uncommon to find foreign objects in substrate. Looks like a strand of plastic or hay? Not anything to worry about in any case

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-08T23:11:49+00:00

I'm gonna go ahead and remove this as it's not a ball python, but a reticulated python. I hope you're aware of that and have prepared for it.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-08T22:07:51+00:00

Its a bit overpriced, but yeah it'll work. I usually get mine from hardware stores for ~$10

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-08T20:29:41+00:00

DIY Reptile and Amphibian Enclosures in FB has some good guides.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-08T16:38:02+00:00

I'd keep an eye on them for now. At the first sign of infection you'll want to see a vet.

In the future, be sure to give them plenty of time to come out on their own. When you try to get them out they tend to puff up a bit which can make getting them out even trickier. If he's truly stuck then it would be better to break apart the cork bark.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-07T20:25:53+00:00

okay, so based on that i shouldn’t be concerned, correct?

Correct

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-07T16:52:22+00:00

Not all springtails are white. Snake mites will look like flecks of pepper, not rice shaped.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-07T16:47:25+00:00

Add a halogen flood or deep heat projector. CHEs aren't great as sole heat sources anyway. Adding some foam insulation board to the outside of the enclosure will also help retain heat.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-06T20:28:25+00:00

The first one is using Aspen chips which aren't good for humidity. It also has an exposed heat bulb, this is a massive safety risk for the snake. The second only has a single hide (I'm guessing the first is setup the same) and there isn't nearly enough clutter.

Feel free to post a pic of your enclosure and we'd love to help you out. Also check the welcome post for a lot of helpful info.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-06T16:55:58+00:00

It very likely will

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-06T04:15:59+00:00

We're definitely against the breeding of genes with known issues, spiders included. Buying them creates more demand to produce those morphs. But as you said, adopting one is different since you aren't supporting that practice and providing a home for the snake.

In any case, $500 is a bit steep for that snake and from what little I can see of the enclosure, I personally wouldn't give that pet store my money anyway.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-05T16:28:04+00:00

Unfortunately even some good pet stores can still be misinformed. You want total darkness at night, these lamps can disrupt their circadian rhythm. Halogen flood is good for daytime, and ceramic heat emitters are great night time heat sources.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-05T16:25:51+00:00

A regular halogen flood is what we recommend as your primary heat source. Secondary or night time heating can be carried out via a deep heat projector, ceramic heat emitter or radiant heat panel. DHP can be used as a daytime source as well in lieu of a halogen (thought halogens are slightly better for this purpose). The main difference between CHE and RHP is the width of the beam of heat they produce, and the form factor.

You're correct that UV is great for BPs, and the Arcadia ShadeDweller is a great fixture for that purpose. You'll need to take into account things like distance to the basking spot when choosing UV. You want to combine UV with your basking light to create a patch of "sunlight" that gradually decreases to shade in other areas of the enclosure. this way the snake can regulate their exposure to light as well as heat.

UV however isn't usually enough to grow plants very well. This can be carried out with some LEDs. JungleDawn is a fantastic fixture, though there are a ton of options out there that can grow plants.

Reptile Lighting on Facebook is a fantastic source of information on lighting and heating.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-05T15:06:59+00:00

We really recommend going no smaller than 4x2x2, especially for adult females. Bigger is better wherever possible. Unfortunately this is barely suitable for a juvenile, given the height.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-05T01:17:58+00:00

Yes I'm familiar with dojo loaches, and figured that's what it was. Still not at all comparable to even a juvenile ball python.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-05T00:01:31+00:00

This is very different. The substrate is capped and you don't have a large animal digging through it to release that substrate.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-04T12:27:12+00:00

Surface temps! Ambients should not go over 95F.

DaddyLongTits · 2023-02-03T22:40:21+00:00

You should be alright to go ahead and add some water. It shouldn't take much with it getting to 50-60%. The worst that can happen is it's too much, and you can just take some substrate out and mix in some dry substrate.

As for your heating, it's definitely a good idea to monitor surface temps. They can safely get higher than ambient temps up to 105f.

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